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Peltier/TEC Cooling?

Soldato
Joined
24 Apr 2007
Posts
7,563
Location
Southport
I don't know if this is a good idea lol, but for a few months now I've been playing with Peltiers, and have made a mini air conditioning unit using two Freezer 64 Pros, a 420w peltier and a length of tumble drier hose :p

It works well, and if I set the fan on the hot side of the peltier to full, and have the cold side fan off or low, I can get frost on the vanes of the heatsink pretty quickly.

With my system in my sig, would it be good to use a Peltier? I'm going C2D (E6600) shortly, and would like to have a good cooling setup, I know I'd have yet more heat to deal with, but my case seems pretty good at dealing with it (The coolermaster elite 330).

Any ideas as to how stupid/good this idea is? My CPU is cooled by a Freezer 7, which I could adapt to take the extra height, or get a water cooling system.

Thanks!
 
Pelts are great fun mate! They use a lot of juice, and sometimes the results can be good. I'm getting one of these Titan Amandas in the next couple of days to try with my e6600. Condenstaion can be a bit of an issue though. For a more effective result, water may be better for you, and can just about cost the same. Mind you, like I said earlier, pelts are good fun, and I did enjoy the time I was using them. Moved to a MACH 2GT afterwards, and that was even more fun! Ever though of phase instead ?
 
Do it! I'm going to! swiftech do a waterblock with a 226w pelt built in. Really need water cooling the pelt though cos the heat load from overclocked chips can be huge! Pelt will fail fairly quick if the heat isn't removed rather quickly!
 
:eek: 420w pelt + E6600 and you will need a PA120.3 x 2 and some delta's to boot!

It's a completly stupid, expensive and pointless idea!!!! I love it! :D
 
He won't have a spare hand if he's in the pub. There would be a pint in one. The other would only be spare on the odd occasion his hand was not groping a pretty ladies arse :D
 
420w tec :eek:
Used to run a dual 175w tec rig years ago.
Made a "bong" or evaporating tower to cool the beast , the results were vary impressive.
Very difficult to get contact with the cpu correct but once i sored this out & the
insulation it ran great.
 
XysteR said:
He won't have a spare hand if he's in the pub. There would be a pint in one. The other would only be spare on the odd occasion his hand was not groping a pretty ladies arse :D

Which pubs do you go to, mine tend only to have smelly old men in :(
 
id recommend a TEC system anyday cost me a few quid and cooled my e4300 down to -26C at stock speeds (loaded temp of -15)

320W pelt cost me £9.99 off ebay
a copper coldplate £5
lapping paper
dielectric grease to seal it all
arctic silver
bit of styrofoam to insulate the socket
used 2 out of 4 pci-e connectors on my CM 850W to power it, so no need to buy a extra psu
very neat and effective!!
pelt.jpg
 
320W is the sweet spot with pelts - both in terms of size and efficiency, It is great fun and certainly gives good results nicely between top WaterCooling and Phase at a good value.

I wouldn't recommend styrofoam tbh - Neoprene is your friend ;)

Just make sure you have an appropriate power supply - 320 is too much for your psu - you will need a standalone supply.
 
cavemanoc said:
320W is the sweet spot with pelts - both in terms of size and efficiency, It is great fun and certainly gives good results nicely between top WaterCooling and Phase at a good value.

I wouldn't recommend styrofoam tbh - Neoprene is your friend ;)

Just make sure you have an appropriate power supply - 320 is too much for your psu - you will need a standalone supply.

please tell me whats wrong with styro foam :D
and why i cant use my pc psu?

i much prefer a solid carve out of styrfoam over layers of messy neoprene :)

my psu can easily handle it:
1) its ran it for months
2) 18A available on each rail, 2 pelt DEDICATED rails. 12V on the 15V rated 320W pelt which draws 17A so 17 from 36 available amps is a BREEZE

check it(im marc.tulley btw):
http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/149831-cooler-master-real-power-pro-850w.html
 
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MisterT said:
please tell me whats wrong with styro foam :D
and why i cant use my pc psu?

i much prefer a solid carve out of styrfoam over layers of messy neoprene :)

my psu can easily handle it:
1) its ran it for months
2) 18A available on each rail, 2 pelt DEDICATED rails. 12V on the 15V rated 320W pelt which draws 17A so 17 from 36 available amps is a BREEZE]

Styrofoam is a sucker for static - you risk a build up - If you get the right thickness of neoprene you can cut a single gasket just as you have with your styrofoam (as comes with many of the bought solutions)

Psu wise - yours is probably fine - you will 'only' be getting about 300W out of the pelt, but that's close enough really. The biggest problem comes from the Rail strength and the overall loading. You have very good rails on your PSU and while it would have been nicer to have the 4x30A rails, yours combined are fine. With cheaper supplies the rails aren't properly segregated, not only have you not got 850W to play with (200W goes to the +3v and +5v) but they will not give stable power if you are pushing them to the limit. Anything less that about 750W would be right up against it and you would either knacker the PSU or suffer through instability - bear in mind that if you're doing this you'll be overclocking hard and pushing the rails accordingly!

MisterT said:
2) 18A available on each rail, 2 pelt DEDICATED rails. 12V on the 15V rated 320W pelt which draws 17A so 17 from 36 available amps is a BREEZE]

Not sure where you got this from - you are actually pulling more like 25A through the pelt (though most are rated to 28ish <- you'd only get it all if you volted it properly to 15v)

As you can see - that's a HUGE draw from the rails - you sure you've got it properly balanced?
 
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cavemanoc said:
Styrofoam is a sucker for static - you risk a build up - If you get the right thickness of neoprene you can cut a single gasket just as you have with your styrofoam (as comes with many of the bought solutions)

Psu wise - yours is probably fine - you will 'only' be getting about 300W out of the pelt, but that's close enough really. The biggest problem comes from the Rail strength and the overall loading. You have very good rails on your PSU and while it would have been nicer to have the 4x30A rails, yours combined are fine. With cheaper supplies the rails aren't properly segregated, not only have you not got 850W to play with (200W goes to the +3v and +5v) but they will not give stable power if you are pushing them to the limit. Anything less that about 750W would be right up against it and you would either knacker the PSU or suffer through instability - bear in mind that if you're doing this you'll be overclocking hard and pushing the rails accordingly!



Not sure where you got this from - you are actually pulling more like 25A through the pelt (though most are rated to 28ish <- you'd only get it all if you volted it properly to 15v)

As you can see - that's a HUGE draw from the rails - you sure you've got it properly balanced?

defo get lower than 300W using 12V on a 15V rated 320W pelt

well 17A , im under the assumption voltage to current drop is linear:
P=IV 320=21.3x15 so V:I is 0.7:1
with 12V supply 12/0.7 = 17.1A making power drawn 205W
my m8 measured his 320W pelt under 12V load to use 224W even this would only be drawing 18.6A. dunno if my assumptions are wrong but i do know if you lower the load V then I drops too, with peltiers anyway.

thx for the heads up on the static tip, had it in their for months so think itll be cool, touch wood
 
I guess it will depend on the TEC that you are using - the ones from DD give the following:

320 watt / 15.2 VMax / 26 IMax

5 volts: 175.9 watts
6 volts: 202.7 watts
7 volts: 226.8 watts
8 volts: 248.2 watts
9 volts: 266.7 watts
10 volts: 282.5 watts
11 volts: 295.5 watts
12 volts: 305.8 watts
13 volts: 313.3 watts
14 volts: 318.0 watts
15 volts: 319.9 watts

The only way you will ever really know is by measuring the amp draw - could be with your mate that 15A was all that it could draw?

Bottom line is though - if it works... :D

You got a protection system built in? (Switch off via bios/speedfan/mbm5 etc...) I have mine set via the bios - if the temp rises the machine powers down - not sure it would save it in time but at least I feel better ;)
 
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