Please check this spec for me

ChrisD.

ChrisD.

ChrisD.

Man of Honour
Joined
20 Sep 2006
Posts
36,152
YOUR BASKET
1 x Phanteks Enthoo Primo Full Tower Case £199.99
1 x XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir/Pump Combo V2 £109.99
1 x EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (480) £98.98
2 x EK Water Blocks EK-FC R9-290X £89.99 (£179.98)
1 x EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ £49.99
1 x EK CoolStream Radiator XT 360 (120.3) £48.98
1 x Monsoon 19/13mm (ID 1/2 OD 3/4) Free Center Compression Fitting Six Pack - Matte Black £29.99
1 x Akasa FC. SIX Channel Fan Controller - Brushed aluminium - AK-FC-08BK £27.98
3 x Mayhems Pastel - Sunset Yellow Coolant 1L £14.99 (£44.97)
1 x XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor (Orange) V2 + G1/4" Plug Sensor £5.99
1 x EK Water Blocks HD Tube 10/12mm 3-Slot (2 pcs) £4
1 x XSPC G1/4" T Fitting (Chrome) £3.95
Total : £804.78 (includes shipping : FREE).




I realise I don't have any tubing or quick disconnects for the drain solution because I can't find either in stock on OcUK. I really want the Primochill tubing.

Any massive gotchyas? What I really need help on is the amount of fluid, ie, is it the right amount?

Another thing I don't know about is that I am cooling two 290X's, so I need some acrylic between the two blocks? Can someone let me know what length please, it's an Z77 Mpower.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Well I've ordered the above. My query about the acrylic still remains, do I have the right fittings to fit them onto the blocks etc?
 
Last edited:
Right, I have a diagram drawn in pen. But basically in my mind I had it something like this:

On the return (or feed) from the bay res, have a T piece. The T bit will have a length of tubing on it and it will have a stop on that is a LCD monitor for the temperature.

So I think on the loop side of the T I need a disconnect to act as a stop, then the same connecting to the temp meter on the off shoot. This then can connect to another piece of tubing which can be used to drain/fill.

Sound about right? I'm a complete beginner at this so not 100% sure.

Also will the rads be enough for GPU mining? Or get another rad to be sure?
 
Just reading up, I don't think I need to use QD's? I could just put the end plug with LCD monitor at the end of the T line, and as long as it is low enough mavity should do the rest. Then to fill I could do it in reverse or direct into the res.

I've ordered the EK terminal block so I will send the Acrylic back. So I think with 6 compression fittings I will be good to go? Only thing is how terminal block connects to the GPU blocks. Will Google it.
 
Last edited:
just watch with the monsoons, they are pretty wide, especially at 3/4 od.

when screwed onto some cpu blocks you will find that they don't fit side by side.
 
So I'll get some new compression fittings added. So it's pretty much complete now less fans I guess? How do you think the two rads will stack up with 24/7 mining? Well, save for a few hours at night where one of the cards will be and the other will be gaming.

Also, where would be the best place to add the T line? And I presume you added the extra fittings to cover the T line or could that be achieved with just barbs?
 
The extra fittings were to cover all the components.

RAD: 2
RAD: 2
CPU BLOCK: 2
PUMP/RES: 2
GPU in/out: 2
=10

The T-Line is a slightly tricky one tbh. I've seen a number of solutions and it may be best/easier to work it out when you've got the gear to play with.
Not sure if there's space, but the bleed port on the XTX might also be an option with a 90° rotary and a tap (assuming it's going on the bottom of the case).

Rads should be ok, but if you want to be extra sure, change the 360 to a 480.
 
Pretty sure that the XTX is going into the top as it's too wide for the bottom. I did want another quad in the bottom but wanted to keep it to EK rads and figured a triple should be enough.
 
Cheers, just got to work out a drain solution now. I could just use normal barbs on the T piece or is that not advised? I guess the plan would be to have it in the bottom of the case.
 
Please see my most excellent diagram. Using the solid or dotted line from the bottom rad will depend on how it all goes together I guess.

nmUGV8e.jpg
 
That's kind of what I had in mind actually.

Only I'd change the tubing to pump>cpu>rad>gpu for neatness and maybe flip the rad so the ports are at the front of the case like your dotted part (with the rad moved back).
 
I guess it's a case of seeing how it all fits together in the case once I start building it. Just had another thought - fans! Looks like I get 5 140mm fans in the case. The XTX takes 4 120mm fans and the XT takes three. So I figure if I get 7 gentle's then I will be covered, and leaving me enough 140 to aid air cooling and a few spare.
 
The included fans are pretty damn good by all accounts - including rad duty.
Thing is - and it might be a slightly pedantic point - but the most powerful airflow from a fan is produced at the outer edge, so if you use a 140 fan on a 120 rad...

Saying that, if you're gonna whack GT's on the other side, then who cares? :D The GT's would be fine by themselves, so having a bit of slightly inefficient help is all good.
 
No, leave them on the case.
Bottom rad can be just placed on top. Top rad, you'd have to screw the rad in and then screw the 140's on inside the roof cavity.

OR... Just buy some more 120's or decide whether you even need push/pull :D
 
So bottom rad will be in with mavity? What about the top, how would I screw in the fans?

I don't want to get more than what I need, I've spent a lot on this already! Just want the bare minimum then I can see how temps are. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom