Power button/PSU problems again

oldestgregg

oldestgregg

oldestgregg

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So,last week I had the problem where pushing the power button on my case did nothing. USB ports still worked and the mobo standby light was still on despite not powering on the PC when I pushed it.

I unplugged the PC from the surge protector and into the mains and it worked fine so I replaced the surge strip and everything worked fine...for 6 days.

Cut to last night and same problem arises. What I did notice is when I pushed the power button there was nothing except the first time it happened which was a 8 second delay in it coming on. When I pulled the kettle lead from the back the PC turned on once the lead was 3/4s of the way out. I tried this again and it failed to boot with the kettle lead seated but came on when nearly pulled out.

I swapped the kettle lead with one that came with my Dell u2713hm and it works fine but Im expecting this to happen again TBH. I figure its either the kettle which was a cheap one I had laid about or the PSU ,which I tested with a multimeter and was up to scratch, and specifically thesocket on the back.

Could this be the kettle lead and has anyone else had any problems like this before? Im gutted as I thought the replacement of the surge protector had sorted it
 
Also,does it matter which kettle lead you use for a PSU? Mine is a Seasonic snow silent 1050w and the Kettle lead it came with had a USA plug on the end so I ended up using an old one I had laid about.

The USA lead that can with it is 16a 250v but the kettle lead I have been using is 5a. Could that be the issue?
 
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5 amp si plenty
but i never saw a 5 Amp kettle cable
Sounds fishy
My worst experience with one is it melting and giving me an electric shock while it was in my hand
The connection might be bad between the PSU and the cable
Check the contacts on the psu
They might be damaged from a crappy connection on the cable
 
tres_kun said:
5 amp si plenty
but i never saw a 5 Amp kettle cable
Sounds fishy
My worst experience with one is it melting and giving me an electric shock while it was in my hand
The connection might be bad between the PSU and the cable
Check the contacts on the psu
They might be damaged from a crappy connection on the cable
Click to expand...

I thought it may be the contacts as it powered on when I was removing the lead from the back. Almost like it had touched something it was not previously touching. Going to take it apart tomorrow and re-seat everything just to start ruling everything else out
 
i will check the pins on the power plug on the psu
Overheating and corrosion will make it obvious
different color uneven surface
 
in circumstances like this is good to have spare parts to test with
you need known working parts to check with

i do not have other relevant advice to give you sorry

just run the system with the cable from your monitor
And do not buy a replacement cable from god knows where cof! crap crap crap
 
Update-
Awoke this morning to find an unresponsive computer again. I tried the kettle lead trick whch didnt work however when I pushed it in a tiny bit more (from snug to very snug) it booted. I think my bet would be on the socket on the back of the PSU or some kind of PSU fault...hopefully
 
oldestgregg said:
Update-
Awoke this morning to find an unresponsive computer again.
Click to expand...
Your conclusions are based only in speculation and observation. Start with some facts. That power button is simply one input to a power controller. That controller decides when a PSU powers on and off. Its operation is completely dependent on DC voltages - AC voltages (ie surge protector) is completely irrelevant.

Well, unplugging a computer would affect DC voltages - causing a intermittent to temporarily fix itself. A solution starts by first identifying the defect. Nothing done previously attempted to do that.

To obtain a useful answer means numbers from six wires - to define what that power controller is doing and seeing. That means a digital meter, some requested instructions, and minutes of labor. Your help is only as good as facts that you first provide. That is resulting numbers from six wires.

You have two choices. Keep replacing good parts until something works (also called shotgunning). Or first learn what is defective before even disconnecting one wire or part. Suggested is how to do that.

For example, something in the power system (PSU is only one part of that system) could have been defective long ago. A long existing defect has become worse, resulting in more obvious symptoms. Using a meter long ago may have identified that defect. And is really the only way to learn what is wrong. Eventually that intermittent will get worse.

Another powerful tool is heat. Selectively heating parts with a hairdryer on highest heat can make an intermittent temporary hard (that heat never causes damage). A heated part identifies itself as defective. Another example of 'following the evidence' rather than just speculating - ie blaming a surge protector.
 
westom said:
Your conclusions are based only in speculation and observation. Start with some facts. That power button is simply one input to a power controller. That controller decides when a PSU powers on and off. Its operation is completely dependent on DC voltages - AC voltages (ie surge protector) is completely irrelevant.

Well, unplugging a computer would affect DC voltages - causing a intermittent to temporarily fix itself. A solution starts by first identifying the defect. Nothing done previously attempted to do that.

To obtain a useful answer means numbers from six wires - to define what that power controller is doing and seeing. That means a digital meter, some requested instructions, and minutes of labor. Your help is only as good as facts that you first provide. That is resulting numbers from six wires.

You have two choices. Keep replacing good parts until something works (also called shotgunning). Or first learn what is defective before even disconnecting one wire or part. Suggested is how to do that.

For example, something in the power system (PSU is only one part of that system) could have been defective long ago. A long existing defect has become worse, resulting in more obvious symptoms. Using a meter long ago may have identified that defect. And is really the only way to learn what is wrong. Eventually that intermittent will get worse.

Another powerful tool is heat. Selectively heating parts with a hairdryer on highest heat can make an intermittent temporary hard (that heat never causes damage). A heated part identifies itself as defective. Another example of 'following the evidence' rather than just speculating - ie blaming a surge protector.
Click to expand...

The PSU was bought new in may of this year. I tried plugging it into a wall socket directly and it worked so I replaced the surge protector and it worked. Thats not speculating,thats ruling the surge protector out. Ive already stripped it down and rebuilt it and I thought it better to try replacing small things first to rule them out seeing as Ive tested the PSU with a multimeter and it came up all fine.

Now,when I replaced the plug and it worked again is it not worth asking if this could be a problem? I was merely asking a question. Ive tried as many little things as I can like unplugging everything before I boot it,cmos battery,bypassing the power button so at this point Im down to either the mobo or the PSU and Im leaning towards the PSU
 
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oldestgregg said:
The PSU was bought new in may of this year. I tried plugging it into a wall socket directly and it worked so I replaced the surge protector and it worked. Thats not speculating,thats ruling the surge protector out.
Click to expand...
Those are classic examples of curing symptoms using specualtion. None of them would explain your symptoms. Furthermore, you are trying to fix things without first identifying the problem. Another reason why only symptoms are being cured. And why the problem returns. Getting angry rather than asking to learn further complicates things.

What you probably did with a meter would not identify problems. For example, tell me what the meter said about the status message to the power controller? What did the meter say about the power controller? A PSU can be defective even though numbers on the meter meet ATX standards. There is far more happening than you realize - as the previous post repeatedly alluded to.

You are shotgunning. Keep replacing good parts (ie CMOS battery) until something works (curing symptoms). Provided was how to fix it the first time without any more speculation. That mean learning to use a meter in a manner that can actually identify relevant numbers - such as from the power controller. Did you confirm that power controller has good inputs? Did you confirm a motherboard meter is properly calibrated?

Described was how to find that problem so that the next replaced part fixes it. It cannot happen if your attitude is that you already know better.
 
westom said:
Those are classic examples of curing symptoms using specualtion. None of them would explain your symptoms. Furthermore, you are trying to fix things without first identifying the problem. Another reason why only symptoms are being cured. And why the problem returns. Getting angry rather than asking to learn further complicates things.

What you probably did with a meter would not identify problems. For example, tell me what the meter said about the status message to the power controller? What did the meter say about the power controller? A PSU can be defective even though numbers on the meter meet ATX standards. There is far more happening than you realize - as the previous post repeatedly alluded to.

You are shotgunning. Keep replacing good parts (ie CMOS battery) until something works (curing symptoms). Provided was how to fix it the first time without any more speculation. That mean learning to use a meter in a manner that can actually identify relevant numbers - such as from the power controller. Did you confirm that power controller has good inputs? Did you confirm a motherboard meter is properly calibrated?

Described was how to find that problem so that the next replaced part fixes it. It cannot happen if your attitude is that you already know better.
Click to expand...

Im not angry just feel a patronising tone isnt very helpful and is never nice to hear. You obviously know a lot more than me which is cool and why I asked the questions I did on here but it sounded like you were talking down to me simply because Im not as knowledgeable as you are
 
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Only posted are technical facts that also demonstrate why previous testing would only cure symptoms. Should you feel emotion, it is only from you. These post are only technical blunt and honest. Feelings are irrelevant in this topic. Your problems continue due to using a misguided strategy.

Defined are different strategies such as a digital meter, some requested instructions, and minutes of labor. Or using heat as a diagnostic tool. That is only demeaning if emotionally attached to a strategy that clearly cannot identify a defect and often only cures symptoms. If that demeans you, well, i am sorry about what is not relevant. Shotgunning was performed even on items (ie surge protector) that are completely unrelated to Asus surge messages and power controller operation.

Select a better diagnostic strategy. Since everything posted only attacks the problem - and does not waste bandwidth worrying about how anyone feels.
 
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