powerflush?

[immy]

Our heating is playing up...last week the hot water packed in....called out SSE...who said its sludge related and has caused the mid position valve to pack in....said its not covered under my plan.

Remedy....£510 for a powerflush or £210 to replace mid position valve but no idea how long before that got clogged.

I was just in a new contract with SSE so cancelled them and Called out BG...who were quoting a one off repair at 99 if u take their heating cover out for 12 months....so thought id do that since it was xmas eve and no hot water.

BG engineer tells me its a blockage in the pipe somewhere and he cant fix.....long story short....he sorts the issue by clearing a section of the pipe.
Mid position valve was fine apparantly. BG engineer also recommended system to be powerflushed at cost of 800-900. Also recommended we get a new boiler.. (boiler has been running trouble free over last 10 years..only issues seem to be with the other bits)

So....should i be getting a powerflush done or invest in a new boiler (i am assuming the issue would still remain with the pipework/radiators etc)

any recommnndations on companies in glasgow?

 

[a1ex2001]

If you get a new boiler some sort of clean/poweflush is advisable. BG always say you need a new boiler take that advice with a pinch of salt! I'm not a fan of poweflushing old systems for the sake of it you risk causing as many problems as you solve consider a chemical flush instead it isn't as effective but is cheaper and less risky!

 

[Vern1961]

You'll find the BG plan also doesn't cover sludge despite any temporary repair under the initial call-out and their expensive powerflush, albeit in theory they market that as a "one off" deep clean and supposedly re-do free of charge if the system gets clogged again. I speak from experience as we have a rather old open system which suffers from sludge build up. After the independent engineer we were using left it in a dangerous state (only half filled due to blocked feed pipe) we went to BG and had the £99 repair + contract + power flush. However other than the annual service and a guarantee that someone will come out if there's a fault (as opposed to trying to find an indie), it seems hit and miss what's covered.

Long story shot, within a couple of years of the power flush being done system getting very dirty again. So last year (as in 2015) drained it down myself and circulated X400 for 2 - 3 weeks to clean it out then refilled with clean water and X100/200. This year, dredged the carp out of the header tank and put in some fresh X100/X200 then drained into system. So far, so good - the boiler can be a bit kettley, probably needs a new heat exchanger but I know for a fact BG would want to sell a new boiler rather than TLC to the old one. They already intimated as much on the annual service this year, claiming they can no longer guarantee getting parts.

So the plan next year is to drain and clean again, basically every two years until the system is completely shot but this agai is something BG don't do (last year the guy didn't even go in the loft to check the header, quick clean of the boiler burner, sniff and pressure test then on his way).

 

[Psycho Sonny]

stop calling out your suppliers.

speak to friends / family and get a local independent who comes very well recommended and by those who know a bit about CH systems too. millions of cowboys out there so make sure you get one who is well recommended rather than one you pluck from thin air (much like your suppliers). i've taught myself how the whole system works within the past 2 months and I'm horrible at DIY. I know how the call for heat works, how the valves work, the pump, etc. I can now for sure diagnose the issue myself so if i was to call a unknown plumber round I know whether or not he is taking the mick and if he tries it on I tell him where to go. Luckily I have a very distant relative that is a plumber so I get him to do the work so I don't really have this issue but least I taught myself the system so I know what needs replacing and buy the parts myself.

I would say there is no way you need a new boiler. I had BG come out for a "free" health check. Only to phone me every day for weeks to discuss me buying a more "efficient" boiler.

I said to them I would be getting a NEST thermostat, etc but they said that makes zero difference to how efficient my boiler is which is true but I'm not paying £3K to save £10 a month by having a more efficient boiler. I'll buy a new boiler when mine breaks not because atm it's using 50p more gas per day than what is needed.

So there is no way I would be listening to them.

If your system really is full of sludge then it's likely your whole system is borked tbh, the sludge comes from the interior of your radiators corroding away, etc. Get it flushed and fill with water and inhibitor, however expect to have the same problem in a few years as like i say if it is full of sludge it means the insides are all corroded. However I doubt it is unless your previous plumbers was a moron and never used inhibitors or you live in an area with really bad water or you haven't had it flushed regularly (think coolant in a car it should be flushed and replaced every 2 years). I doubt you need this done and at a cost of £900 I would be telling them to go do one. Just do a normal drain and fill with new water and inhibitor.

Valves tend to stop working especially 3 way valves, it's a common fix. You should be expecting to replace a valve and pump at least once every 20 years. In the long run it's better to have 2 x 2 way valves than 1 x 3 way valve, yes it does mean cutting pipes and moving stuff around a bit but less to go wrong with 2 way valves so in the long run it pays off. it's easy to see if it's working or not too so again this is something you could check yourself. If BG say it's working then it may be stiff and on it's way out and only works sometimes. So learn about it and check it yourself.

Could be your pump is on it's way out so worth learning how that works and how to test it, etc.

I have had issues and I've diagnosed that my valve is stiff and my pump is on it's last legs. I now have my pump on speed 2 as it doesn't work at all on speed 1. I now manually move my valve when I need heat / hot water by flicking a wee piece of metal to the right.

Instead of spending £500 on a new pump and valve I'm happy to keep it on 2 and manually flicking it until the pump dies. Then i'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone and get both replaced so i no longer need to manually flick the valve.

My boiler again I'll replace with a more efficient one when this one dies. No point me spending £2K now to save £10 a month when it's working fine. When it dies it will be replaced. It's 20 years old and parts are hard to come by plus new boilers are cheap, it's the labour that costs. A new top of the range boiler for my house is £1000-£1200 for a Vaillant ecotec.

 

[immy]

We have been in the house for 5 years...first 3 years covered by BG....boiler service consisted of 20 mins at boiler and a quick run round the house to see if heaters are heating up.1 yr of no cover and this year covered by SSE. Other then the 3 port valve being replaced in year 2 (not sure if replaced or they just got it working again), we have had no issues till last week. Never had anyone replace the water or add inhibitor or even been up in attic to check tank.

Asked family n friends who are all with BG for heating cover or not covered at all.

Will have a look around online to see who is well reviewed locally.

 

[ChroniC]

I would recommend just the flush if the boiler is sound. Wouldn't pay more than 400 for it.
A new boiler will come with a powrflush from anyone reputable at around 1200.

If it were me I'd take my chances first. Save me 800
If your worried about sludge reappearing ask them to install a magna clean

 

[Thebug]

I would fit a magnaclean and empty it regulary, would also take the radiators off and flush through using the garden hose as i have heard stories of power flushing causing leaks