Project Azura - NZXT 810 Switch (white) 12/02/2013

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Project Azura​

I googled Azura and got all sorts of things about the blue of the sky and the mix of blue sky and white clouds which is a hint at the colour scheme. I then image searched and came up with a load of cruise liners :( This is not a cruise liner!

I better say a quick hello. This is my first post and coincidentally my first major mod project. I have been building my own PC's for about 10 years but have never taken the time to mod or personalize them in any way. I am hoping that this project turns out to be something powerful, minimalist and beautiful. This is also my first crack at watercooling and having read what feels like every article on watercooling under the sun, hopefully I have some idea of what I have let myself in for!

The project should speak for itself so onto the build.

Current Specs:

Case: Thermaltake Armor+ Silver
PSU: Enermax 850W
Mobo: Asus P8P67-M Pro
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K
RAM: Corsair XMS 16GB
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 670 OC Twin Frozr Power Edition
Storage: Crucial Real SSD M4 128GB
Storage: HDD 500 GB
Storage: 2 TB
CPU cooler: Scythe Mugen 3
Displays: 2x Asus 24" 1 x Asus 23"​

The hardware is pretty good - room for a few tweaks and upgrades here and there - but the case is huge and heavy, it doesn't fit on or under the desk so has to sit next to it! I did some research and found some great mods with similar themes to my own by joejoe69 over on the corsair forums Project Cobalt Corsair Carbide 500R and by seongishere Corsair Obsidian 650D watercooled.

Reading through their project logs they seemed to "switch" (pun intended) to the NZXT 810 Switch case as a further mod or expansion so this was my place to start.


Bought and arrived
NZXT 810 Switch case in white.
XSPC RX360 Radiator
Alphacool VP655 pump
Bitspower Mod Kit
Bitspower D5 mod top V2 Extreme
Phobya balancer 150 reservoir Black Nickel
XSPC Raystorm CPU water block
BitFenix Recon fan controller
EK compression fittings Black Nickel 1/2" - 3/4"​

I let the moths out of my wallet and this is what turned up.

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There's more arriving in the post but when it arrives I will add it here.
For structure - the modding takes place in the following posts.
 
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The Radiator

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XSPC RX360 Radiator in black.

All the guides tell you to wash out the rads first so I did that using this.

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And this is what came out!!

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All sorts of crud. This was after about 5 washes, so I did another 5 and they all came out clear.

Black doesn’t really suit my theme – especially this amount of black. Thankfully Hayling Laser Sailor over on another forum has written a great guide on how to get a good spray coat finish on metal work. The steps are spread out over a number of posts with helpful images so well worth a look, but I will summarise them here. All credit to Hayling Laser Sailor but the images are my own.

Step 1: Spend plenty of time covering the fins, A5 paper is the best size for this with the edge folded over, then stick it down where necessary with masking tape, as it is nice and easy to remove. Make sure you cover all the fins, so you can no longer see them, for the G1/4" fittings,I just rolled up half a sheet of A5 and stuck them down the threads to prevent them getting covered in paint.

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Charlie Bunny making sure I did a good job :cool:

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But he got grumpy when I took his chewy sticks of paper away :confused:

Step 2: Use a very fine sandpaper, preferably worn already, and rub the surface of the radiator all over to allow the new primer to key to the surface. Make sure this is done well as if this isn't done well the new primer may not key to the surface. Then get you finest towel and give it a good wipe over to remove the dust ready for the new primer (don't actually use your finest towel, fine something dirty and old)

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Step 3: Find a method of hanging the radiator to spray it and cover the surrounding area. This should be outdoors or somewhere with good ventilation. I used a pair of pliers and a paper-clip to go through one of the M3 holes and then tied it up using a piece of string. Works perfectly.

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Note the paperclip top right

Step 4: Get your primer and give it a good shake making sure the contents are well mixed and fluid. Then spray your radiator with the most awkward bits first (All of the edges, end tanks and around the threads) then paint the rest of the radiator from top to bottom, ideally keeping it in lines where possible. Apply from a 20-30cm distance and apply thinly, lots of passes with less is better than one with lots causing runs. Try to avoid going over the same area numerous times within a short period. Keep going until the original colour can no longer be seen. If you happen to get something on the
radiator, leave it until the radiator is dry before you try and remove it. This took me a good 30 min to do.

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Step 5: Make sure the radiator is completely covered and leave hanging to dry. The paint says 30min to 1hr to dry however I would leave it overnight before the next step.

Step 6: After waiting for the previous coat to dry get a clean
piece of sandpaper, I am using grade 400, and give the radiator a few light passes all over to remove any imperfections. You should be left with the primer still on there looking slightly scuffed up but with a very smooth finish. If you are taking primer off you are pressing to hard! You need the lightest of passes 1/2 should do it fine. Get your towel again and wipe it down to remove any dust and other rubbish.

Step 7: Before you start painting, check to see if any areas are less well covered than others an check to see your first coat has covered everything. Get your 2nd can of primer and ensure it is shaken well, then apply as before in a line motion, starting with any areas that maybe didn't get a great covering then the edges etc, be sure not to touch the radiator when it is wet. If you happen to get runs, you are spraying too close, but leave them as you may well remove the lower layer of paint if you try to take it off.
Spray all over the radiator to ensure every part is covered with enough primer. Then leave the radiator to dry again, again I recommend over night or a good 8hrs to ensure the paint is dry and hard enough to lightly sand.

Step 8: After applying the 2nd coat of primer repeat the processes that I did before applying the 2nd primer coat; give it a very light rub down to remove any imperfections and to make it extremely smooth. Then give it a wipe down to remove any sanding dust etc. Give your white gloss a good shake and apply in the same way as before, however gloss paint will run easier so apply thin coats about 30 minutes apart, I gave it 4 coats
out of a 300ml can. Then once again leave hanging to dry for a good 8 hrs, do not touch it during this time.

Step 9: Get your lacquer and keep it inside to prevent the lacquer getting cold. Especially this time of year this is very important. I used a fan heater to heat up the radiator surface and the room, a long slow heat is much better than a fast very hot heat.
Allow the radiator to warm up making it not cold to the touch. This is also very important all year round if you want to prevent blooming which will ruin your finish and you will need to remove the lacquer after it has dried and start again. The lacquer is what gives the finish that wet look (makes it look even more awesome than gloss alone). Give it a good shake and apply with extremely thin coats about 10-15 minutes apart. I have done 5 coats at 15 minutes apart and it looks amazing. Keep the environment warm for the next 1hr or so to prevent the lacquer blooming. By this time the lacquer should be
dry but avoid touching it, bring it inside to harden off and leave for 2-3 days to allow the finish to harden, without touching it. Lacquer is even worse for running than gloss so apply very thinly but often to build up the finish.

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And fully revealed

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It’s snowing here so not the best light.

Really pleased with the outcome it should set the case off really well. Some of the paint is a bit grainy and I put that partly down to my inexperience, the poor light levels, the fact it was snowing and the cheap paint. Also for some reason I decided to wear a woollen jumper when doing a coat of the laquer and there is a very fine strand in one of the coats that will forever be preserved on my radiator! It’s on the bit that hides in the HDD bay so no bother there.
 
Breaking down the case and Initial fit up​

This case from NZXT is beautiful. The contrast of white on black is really striking and the black is
minimalist enough to not be overpowering.

There are a lot of more arty pics than anything I can reproduce in my living room but I wanted to
pickup a couple of features that I found really nice.

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Firstly it’s the detachable front with fan filter and the free 140mm fan you get with space to mount
another. This area at the front is either ideal HDD cooling or 240mm Rad territory for the future.

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The two bottom drive caddies are only held in with screws so are easy to remove. They have a
bracket system top and bottom that lets them slide in as one unit and makes them really secure
when screwed in. The sliding bracket is removable too. There are two swivel fan mounts for
directing air along your GPU or towards your CPU cooler. Also another free fan.

In some later pictures you will see these drives removed and the space that opens up.

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This sliding drive bay that leads out the front of the case is really nice too with connections on the
back. The whole sliding tray can be removed for any monster bay reservoirs you may have.

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Top exhaust and Rear exhaust fans (another 2 free fans!)

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The cable routing on the back is factory shipped but I will neaten that up in due course. See the little
black board in the middle?

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Ok you can see it now. A nice power splitter for up to 7 fans. No need to have loads of cable splitters
all over the place.

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A huge space under the top of the case for even a 60mm thick rad and then room on top for three
fans to sit just above the case. This area is covered over by a louvered set of plastic fins.

Fitting the Radiator​

The first thing I had to check out was the fitment of the rad and how much of the 5.25” bays I was
going to lose once it was in.

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The short answer here was “a fair bit” You couldn’t fit a drive into either of these bays as the depth
just isn’t available any more. Thankfully I had a cunning plan.

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This fan controller from bitfenix not only suits the colour scheme really well but also can be
controlled via the web or a smartphone. I was a bit concerned with how much room there would be
behind the controller once it was fitted so I popped it in with a couple of screws and then had a look
round the back.

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Everything fits in but cable management in there is going to be a problem – particularly if I go push
pull with the fans.

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This shot is looking through the tiny gap in between the drive bays. The bit on the left is the rad.

The last job of the weekend was to have a look at the reservoir and see where it might fit.

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The thing isn’t tall enough for the brackets to spawn one of the rubber grommets vertically. Dang. It
is a pretty snug fit in the holder though but it’s made of metal and therefore rather heavy. Will the
weight of the liquid make it move? I don’t have enough stops to plug up the four holes at the bottom
and find out but I did put some water in it to test the top and bottom screw seals. They’re water
tight

By this stage my faithful assistant had given up and started watching Heroes …

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I have a huge dilemma facing me though. I originally intended this build to be in two phases. The first
phase was a watercooling loop for the cpu and the second phase would include the GPU(s).

A couple of issues with that:

i) The P8P67-M Pro will only run SLI at x8/x8 speeds rather than x16/x16
ii) The MSI gtx 670 power edition is a non reference PCB design so there are no waterblocks to fit.
iii) Sitting and thinking about the water loop – anything that doesn’t involve the GPU is going to look really messy. I can hide one of the lines from the rad behind the rad itself to try and help. The ultimate goal for me is a bottom mounted 240mm rad with a mid tray to hide it all.​

So the dilemma is whether to go for a 2 phase approach or just to bite the bullet and do it all now.

Next time I hope to have some more parts to show and will have sketched out the interior.
 
Do you know if the power spliter is sold separately from the case?. Looks like they would come in really handy for cable management!.

EDIT: Found the answer to my own question :) unfortunately can't link but if you google 'Fan distribution board' or 'fan power board' you can find a couple of sellers.
 
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outside of mm i know and apologies however ive got one somewhere that i dont use due to having a recon controller too, trust me some details and ill send it you for the price of the postage and a pint if your still after one
 
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