XSPC RX360 Radiator in black.
All the guides tell you to wash out the rads first so I did that using this.
And this is what came out!!
All sorts of crud. This was after about 5 washes, so I did another 5 and they all came out clear.
Black doesn’t really suit my theme – especially this amount of black. Thankfully
Hayling Laser Sailor over on another forum has written a great guide on how to get a good spray coat finish on metal work. The steps are spread out over a number of posts with helpful images so well worth a look, but I will summarise them here. All credit to Hayling Laser Sailor but the images are my own.
Step 1: Spend plenty of time covering the fins, A5 paper is the best size for this with the edge folded over, then stick it down where necessary with masking tape, as it is nice and easy to remove. Make sure you cover all the fins, so you can no longer see them, for the G1/4" fittings,I just rolled up half a sheet of A5 and stuck them down the threads to prevent them getting covered in paint.
Charlie Bunny making sure I did a good job
But he got grumpy when I took his chewy sticks of paper away
Step 2: Use a very fine sandpaper, preferably worn already, and rub the surface of the radiator all over to allow the new primer to key to the surface. Make sure this is done well as if this isn't done well the new primer may not key to the surface. Then get you finest towel and give it a good wipe over to remove the dust ready for the new primer (don't actually use your finest towel, fine something dirty and old)
Step 3: Find a method of hanging the radiator to spray it and cover the surrounding area. This should be outdoors or somewhere with good ventilation. I used a pair of pliers and a paper-clip to go through one of the M3 holes and then tied it up using a piece of string. Works perfectly.
Note the paperclip top right
Step 4: Get your primer and give it a good shake making sure the contents are well mixed and fluid. Then spray your radiator with the most awkward bits first (All of the edges, end tanks and around the threads) then paint the rest of the radiator from top to bottom, ideally keeping it in lines where possible. Apply from a 20-30cm distance and apply thinly, lots of passes with less is better than one with lots causing runs. Try to avoid going over the same area numerous times within a short period. Keep going until the original colour can no longer be seen. If you happen to get something on the
radiator, leave it until the radiator is dry before you try and remove it. This took me a good 30 min to do.
Step 5: Make sure the radiator is completely covered and leave hanging to dry. The paint says 30min to 1hr to dry however I would leave it overnight before the next step.
Step 6: After waiting for the previous coat to dry get a clean
piece of sandpaper, I am using grade 400, and give the radiator a few light passes all over to remove any imperfections. You should be left with the primer still on there looking slightly scuffed up but with a very smooth finish. If you are taking primer off you are pressing to hard! You need the lightest of passes 1/2 should do it fine. Get your towel again and wipe it down to remove any dust and other rubbish.
Step 7: Before you start painting, check to see if any areas are less well covered than others an check to see your first coat has covered everything. Get your 2nd can of primer and ensure it is shaken well, then apply as before in a line motion, starting with any areas that maybe didn't get a great covering then the edges etc, be sure not to touch the radiator when it is wet. If you happen to get runs, you are spraying too close, but leave them as you may well remove the lower layer of paint if you try to take it off.
Spray all over the radiator to ensure every part is covered with enough primer. Then leave the radiator to dry again, again I recommend over night or a good 8hrs to ensure the paint is dry and hard enough to lightly sand.
Step 8: After applying the 2nd coat of primer repeat the processes that I did before applying the 2nd primer coat; give it a very light rub down to remove any imperfections and to make it extremely smooth. Then give it a wipe down to remove any sanding dust etc. Give your white gloss a good shake and apply in the same way as before, however gloss paint will run easier so apply thin coats about 30 minutes apart, I gave it 4 coats
out of a 300ml can. Then once again leave hanging to dry for a good 8 hrs, do not touch it during this time.
Step 9: Get your lacquer and keep it inside to prevent the lacquer getting cold. Especially this time of year this is very important. I used a fan heater to heat up the radiator surface and the room, a long slow heat is much better than a fast very hot heat.
Allow the radiator to warm up making it not cold to the touch. This is also very important all year round if you want to prevent blooming which will ruin your finish and you will need to remove the lacquer after it has dried and start again. The lacquer is what gives the finish that wet look (makes it look even more awesome than gloss alone). Give it a good shake and apply with extremely thin coats about 10-15 minutes apart. I have done 5 coats at 15 minutes apart and it looks amazing. Keep the environment warm for the next 1hr or so to prevent the lacquer blooming. By this time the lacquer should be
dry but avoid touching it, bring it inside to harden off and leave for 2-3 days to allow the finish to harden, without touching it. Lacquer is even worse for running than gloss so apply very thinly but often to build up the finish.
And fully revealed
It’s snowing here so not the best light.
Really pleased with the outcome it should set the case off really well. Some of the paint is a bit grainy and I put that partly down to my inexperience, the poor light levels, the fact it was snowing and the cheap paint. Also for some reason I decided to wear a woollen jumper when doing a coat of the laquer and there is a very fine strand in one of the coats that will forever be preserved on my radiator! It’s on the bit that hides in the HDD bay so no bother there.