Project: Bring on the frosted plexi

[Tokki]

It all started at Christmas when I got an Corsair Obsidian 650D mid-tower case, which got me by surprise. After looking it up I found it slightly too big and heavy to transport, in comparison of having an Antec twelve hundred case, I believe that I wouldn't be able to fill it up to it capacity.

Though we manage to exchange it for an Corsair Obsidian 350D instead, which is an micro-ATX version of the 650D. Which looks just as good, my brother has good taste but he figured that bigger the case the better. Now that I have a case, what to do? Didn't really plan of making an computer, with little spare time. Ah well I went gung-ho and got the following specification in the end:

Motherboard
Asus Maximus VI Gene Micro ATX

CPU
Intel Core i7 4770K

RAM
Corsair Dominator 4x8GB 32GB, DDR3 SDRAM, 1600 MHz

GPU
Asus Radeon R9 290

SSD
Crucial C300 (Spare-part)

PSU
Corsair AX760i Digital ATX (RMA upgrade replacement )

FAN
6*Corsair SP120 PWM

Watercooling:
CPU
EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy - Nickel

MOSFET
EK Water Blocks EK-MosfetASUS M6G - Nickel (Original CSQ)

RAM
EK RAM Monarch X4 CSQ Memory Waterblock : Nickel Plexi

PUMP
Swiftech MCP35X PWM DDC 18W Pump White : MCP35XWT

PUMP-EXTRAS
EK Water Blocks EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Nickel
EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ - Plexi Wa

RAD
2*EK-CoolStream PE 240 Dual
EK-CoolStream PE 120 (Single)

RES
EK-BAY SPIN Reservoir - Plexi CSQ

TUBE
Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Clear

FITTING
EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 - Nicke
EK-PSC Revolvable angled adaptor 90
EK-PSC Revolvable angled adaptor 45
EK-Extender G1/4
Bitspower 1/4" Thread T Fitting
Bitspower Dual G1/4

ACC
EK Uni Rad Holder 120

Extra
Corsair Generation 2 Sleeved Cable Kit
Corsair 24 Pin ATX Individually Sleeved Cable for AXi 1200i / 860i / 760i (Gen 2) Red
2*Phobya two 3mm ultra-bright
1*Phobya two 3mm ultra-bright (sleeved)
3*Phobya two 5mm ultra-bright (sleeved)
Phobya External PSU 230V to 4Pin Molex 24 Watt including Euro/UK Plug
2*Flexa PWM fan splitter


Things that didn't made it to the build:
Corsair Obsidian 650D Case
Intel Core i7 4770k (Malaysia)
G Skill 2x 8GB PC3-19200 DDR3 2400MHz
MSI R9 290X
Koolance QD3 Male/Female Quick Disconnect
Corsair SP120 (Non-PWM)
EK-BAY DCP 2.2 Combo Unit - Including Water Pump
EK Supremacy PreciseMount Add-On Naked Ivy

The build is partly finished, due to work, holiday, unexpected purchase and etc... Will have to do some catch-up, with this log. Like all projects things did not go exactly to plan, it was meant to be "simple". This is my first water cooling attempt....

The beginning... *rewind*

Stupidly Asus Gene VI motherboard only has two PWM fan connectors, which is the CPU and CPU_OPT. I recommend getting an PWM fan splitter, so you can have more than two fans. Akasa PWM splitter can link up an total of 5 fans, which works with the Corsair SP120 PWM.

I've tried Corsair SP120 (non-PWM) but they run too high even on the lowest setting of 1340 RPM, PWM fans was capable of going lower with 706 RPM.

I'm currently using two splitters on each of the enabled PWM connectors, just encase I need more fans. But it does make cable management just abit harder...

Like with any stuff you buy, you must test them. I had a C300 laying around with an old system image, ran perfectly fine once it has detected the new hardware. Done memtest+ overnight, and loaded a few games.

Everything seems to be fine from this point, well I could have stopped here. Well I didn't.....

 

[damov3]

Like the sound of Frosted Plexi

 

[Tokki]

Adding the good bits

I've originally purchased EK-BAY DCP 2.2 Combo Unit but it was too weak for the set-up, so I got myself an Swiftech MCP35X which had PWM pump control. The only EK version of PWM would be the EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-TOP CSQ, but the pump is based upon the MCP355 which is slightly weaker.

Not knowing what I'm doing with this build, I went with the stronger pressure pump, cause I would be using loads of fittings. And having bought from eBay Cosair 32GB 4x8GB rams I went on the idea of water cooling the RAM and MOSFET.

Pump disassembled for applying new top and nickel housing, top would improve pressure and housing will act as an heat-sink reducing heat which therefore last longer?

Thermal pad on circuit board

Pump with top and housing installed

Leak test, check the seal ring is working.

Removing Asus MOSFET heat-sink

Apply tiny amount of non conductive thermal paste

Add the thermal pad

Viola

Install CPU waterblock

RAMs are next!

 

[Tokki]

The RAMs

More frosted toppings

Just an flat block to place on the RAMs, this would only work straight on the Corsair Dominator with the removable top heat-sink fins. Or you could buy the EK-RAM Dominator Module for the Corsair Dominator Platinum or other manufacture of your choice.

Heat-sink fins removed

Underneath the removed heat-sink

Clean up residue, applied thermal pads did not apply thermal paste due to the paste going into the crack... would make removing the thermal paste an hassle for RMA.

Now that the essentials are done... where do I place the pump?

This took a lot of thinking, as I wanted the pump to be right near the reservoir then to the RAMs.

The intended loop:
Reservoir > Pump > CPU > 240 Radiator > GPU > 240 Radiator

Added RAM and MOSFET into the mix:
Reservoir > Pump > RAM > MOSFET > CPU > 240 Radiator > GPU > 240 Radiator

Randomly bought an 120 Radiator to cool the RAM and MOSFET heat before the CPU, if I could install it inside the case.
Reservoir > Pump > RAM > MOSFET > 120 Radiator > CPU > 240 Radiator > GPU > 240 Radiator

Placing the pump near the bottom of the case, would make the distance longer. The plan was to make shortest route possible, decided to be abit creative...

 

[clone]

Polish them tops mate will look 10 times better,here`s my old ones I did.

Nice build by the looks of it will keep a eye on it

 

[Tokki]

Polish them tops mate will look 10 times better,here`s my old ones I did.

Nice build by the looks of it will keep a eye on it

But but... I like the frosted look

Not sure if clear would look right for my build, hold on while I get more pictures up.

 

[Tokki]

Mounting the pump and Reservoir

This reservoir holder was very useful in mounting the pump right near the bays.
EK-UNI Holder 50/70

No drilling involved, there are holes within the bottom bay cage, due to the removable 2.5" plastic caddle for the optional SSD/HDD.

The EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Nickel has the vibration dampers ready to fit on the holder.

Now that the pump is on, time to put the EK-BAY SPIN Reservoir - Plexi CSQ....... I couldn't

I had to hammer the bay cage side holder due to the reservoir and the top hitting the radiators

The neoprene rubber was to insulate the vibration with the pump, I decided to mount the holders opposite to each other.

Didn't have any power tools with me, hammer and pliers was the only way

Doesn't look that bad ?

Hope these pictures help anyone who is planning of placing anything in the bays, the holder just protrude too much.

Luckily with the way the cage was design, the reservoir stops till the brush steel meet.

With the size of the EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual) radiator it wasn't possible to install the fans to pull, had to mount them to push only. Isn't much space available.

You probably thinking how do I top-up the reservoir when the port is at the top......

Here's more photos

 

[clone]

Looking like its gona be ace when done mate

 

[Fruitbooter]

Nice build!

 

[Tokki]

Thanks more to come once I finish work, forgot to say that EK recommends that the CPU block to be installed in that position for Ivy Bridge and Haswell CPUs due to the orientation of the die. You could install it upside down, which would changes the output port to the left. Otherwise you may not reach maximum heat reduction, with the pre-installed jet plate.

System currently using the default J3 plate, was stated as an all rounder.

 

[Tokki]

Adding WiFi, testing loooop

Had an issue with the MOSFET water block being very close to the 8-pin CPU power port, most supplied power cable comes as splits4+4pin. The sleeved Corsair Individually sleeved DC Cable Kit, Type 3 (Generation 2), RED also have this problem

BitFenix Alchemy 8-pin EPS12v Extension 45cm

Much better

Top radiator are back on with fans fitted to push, it's partly inside the bay cage by 2cm.

The front radiator is mounted downwards due to the pump in the way.

Testing the pump with temporary loop with Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD (10-16mm) Tubing.

Seems to turn on fine, struggle starting but figured it was due to the amount of blocks?

Before I install the 120 radiator, it was best for me to install the Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260 first.

Asus made it difficult using hex bolt on their mPCIe Combo II just use the top fan grill as the spanner

Applying the U.fl/IPX to RP SMA male pigtail cable

Fittings and tubing redone, theClear Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced isn't flexible at all. The pro version was very flexible but they did not fit well to the compression could have been the wrong size but they were leak prone. The wall of the tube is very stiff which mean I had to cut the tube to size and fit the compression and then install to the block. It was practically impossible to apply the tube with compression already installed on the block. Took a lot of tries to get the direction of the compression to the right direction with the rotary when installing to the block.........................

Looks okay

Could not install the radiator inside the case, due to the top radiator. You have to use an 45 and 90 rotary angled fitting to make it through Corsair pre-tube slots, I'm guessing the radiator was not very common.

Loop is up and running with temporary tubing, due to waiting for the EK 290 CSQ block.

Getting there.. so I thought

 

[deFiniLoGy]

Looking nice as well!

 

[Tokki]

Thanks , looks abit cluttered adding that 120 radiator.

Loop so far:
Reservoir > pump > RAM > MOSFET> 120 radiator > CPU > 240 radiator > 240 radiator >

 

[johnny sublime]

that really does look overkill

 

[noj]

looking good so far

look forward to seeing the final pics when its done

 

[Tokki]

Pump issue

While filling the loop, I realise that the pump doesn't start properly , had to use an torch to see through the plexi to see that it does an 1/5 rotate and sudden stop. You can see it shake every 30 seconds, can't shift the water.

After loads of rotating the case for trapped air, I decided that it could be that the pump screws were too tight..... Didn't really wanted to break it down, but ah well.

To access the pump, had to drain and disassemble a lot of things. Back to basic

Loop now consist of:
Reservoir > pump

With this simple loop the pump repeats the same issue, so I've turned it off. Reduce the torque of each screw, and turn the pump on.

It lives , well not 100% start-up. Guess it not an faulty pump...

Guess I was lucky with the first test attempt, after awhile I finally found an balance for starting the pump. Didn't want it too loose, just enough for the seal ring to not leak.

Back to putting everything together and did an overnight leak test, then installed the GPU and wire it up

Everything connected

I finally got to test the system, and did some overclocking....... Until I found out that the i7-4770K Malaysia batch, was crap ... 4.0GHz takes 1.2v while 4.2GHz was over 1.3v which produced even higher temps

1.2v max CPU temperature: 72, core 1: 80, core 2:76, core 3:74, core 4:70

Yeah abit deflated, why not go on another Haswell silicon lottery and sell the the.... supposedly the good unlocked i7

so I bought another brand new i7-4770K and got a Cosa Rica batch which should have a better chance

Finally got the EK-FC R9-290X (Original CSQ) - Nickel, the non-x 290 is identical shouldn't have a problem. Also had the EK-FC R9-290X Backplate to go with it, took pictures of the GPU but forgot to take pictures of the block..... got side tracked with making the system.

While taking out the CPU block I realise there were come white flakes sitting there on the block entry, I did rinse everything with distilled water when new. Must be screwing the fittings into the plexi and the shedding bits got into the loop... Well got that cleaned up and change the CPU

Installed and test with distilled water

Everything seems to be fine, tested system and did some overclocking:

4.3GHz = 1.165v

I wanted the system quiet so I went with 4.2GHz at 1.125v, but having Intel Speedstep or C-State enabled on manual. It wasn't stable with the same voltage had to boast it to 1.150v, CPU-Z shows the voltage at 1.168 while running AIDA64 benchmark due to using AVX instructions which nudges the voltage up. Asus adaptive mode is crap, the voltage fluctuate more and more unstable.

Than again it's much better than the previous CPU, so I've changed the distalled water to EK blood red coolant. There you go..

That was meant to be everything, but then I bought ......

 

[Avenged7Fold]

Nice build.

If you fancy linking block to block up with rubber or acrylic and 90 degree fittings. 10mm extender on the VRM will make the CPU and VRM block fittings level. 30mm of extenders for the CPU and RAM to be leveled.

 

[Tokki]

Nice build.

If you fancy linking block to block up with rubber or acrylic and 90 degree fittings. 10mm extender on the VRM will make the CPU and VRM block fittings level. 30mm of extenders for the CPU and RAM to be leveled.

Linking the CPU after the RAM, would mean the pump would have to go to the MOSFET (abit of a distance). RAMs block are still high to even go to the top radiator inlet probably would need 30mm extenders, even if I could use only 90 degree fittings I mostly got 45. Need to tally them up...

If I've known the tubing was this stiff I would have consider going with acrylic tubing, though this is my first water-cooling attempt. Didn't want to screw things up on my first attempt. I have to say that it does take awhile.... setting up a water-cooled system. With hardly much free time, it took 2 months. Though I did went on holiday for 2 weeks.... If I didn't went with the added 120 radiator I would have made the loop as:

Reservoir > pump > RAM > MOSFET > CPU > 240 radiator (top)> GPU > 240 Radiator

Yeah I have couple of extenders that could have done that, but I went all out with that extra 120 radiator

Reservoir > pump > RAM > MOSFET > 120 radiator > CPU > 240 radiator (top)> GPU > 240 Radiator

 

[Tokki]

Latest pictures

Fittings so far:
20*EK Water Blocks EK-CSQ Fitting 10/16mm G1/4 - Nickel
9*EK-PSC Adapter Rotary 90° G1/4 Nickel
15*EK-PSC Adapter Rotary 45° G1/4 Nickel
4*Koolance Nozzle Socket Plug Nickel
1*Bitspower 1/4" Thread Extension Male to Male Adapter Silver
2*Bitspower 1/4" Thread T Fitting with 3 Female 1/4" Threads
2*EK-Extender G1/4 - Nickel

Did not expect to use that many, though it could had been simpler if I just chose an much flexible tubing.

Ahwell its easier to drain dismantling the rotary, hence why I did not install the Koolance quick disconnect QD3 as they are also known to create some water restriction with the loop.. not sure having multiple fittings helps either.

Its current form.... with another R9 290

Now I need another water block, and maybe an new PSU as the current one is the Corsair AX760i. Everyone recommend 800 watts minimum, though it seems to be working for now

Got the extra R9 290 cheap , didn't really plan on getting an crossfire setup so soon.

 

[Tokki]

Benchmark

3DMARK Firestrike 1.1
9436 with AMD Radeon R9 290(1x) and Intel Core i7-4770K

14482 with AMD Radeon R9 290(2x) and Intel Core i7-4770K

There are two memory vendor that are used for the R9 290 and 290X, apparently you have better performance for mining/overclocking with Hynix and maybe less likely to have black screen issue. You can check by using
MemoryInfo 1005
Hawaiiinfo12.zip

Compatible adapters detected: 2
Adapter #1 PCI ID: 1002:67B1 - 1043:0468
Memory config: 0x500036A9 Hynix
RA1: F8010005 RA2: 00000000
RB1: F8010005 RB2: 00000000
RC1: F8010005 RC2: 00000000
RD1: F8010005 RD2: 00000000
Adapter #2 PCI ID: 1002:67B1 - 1043:0468
Memory config: 0x500036A9 Hynix
RA1: F8010005 RA2: 00000000
RB1: F8010005 RB2: 00000000
RC1: F8010005 RC2: 00000000
RD1: F8010005 RD2: 00000000

Woo got myself two Hynix memory, should be able to overclock better

Need another waterblock ...