Project case painting

freemason

freemason

freemason

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Joined
13 Oct 2013
Posts
97
Welcome to my project log, Upon reading this weeks custom pc magazine ''DECEMBER 2014'' regarding case painting I thought I would give it ago myself.

I will be fully disassembling my case rivets and all! I wont be cheating here I will be setting out to do a professional job I wont be cutting corners.

OK so ordered and arrived so far
Montana Gold Spray Cans 400ml - Poison Pastell CL6300 x3
Montana Gold Spray Cans 400ml - Metal Primer T2400
Montana Gold Spray Cans 400ml - Plastic Primer T2000
Montana Gold Spray Cans 400ml - Varnish GLOSS T1000 x2
Montana Acrylic Marker Set - Metalic
Montana Cap Pack
NOTE* i forgot to order some white basecoat (coming tomorrow)

rivet gun on order not yet arrived. But I'm sure you've all seen a rivet gun before?

pictures below of paint
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So as for colour scheme. the interior of the case will be in white plus fan surroundings. fan blades will be in the same yellow as the outside of the case.... Yes yellow, it will all be finished in gloss varnish (lacquer) i may also mess with my gpu plastics but not decided. I have gone with yellow due to the MSI yellow on my mobo. when money lets me i will be fitting full watercooling in this case and running yellow coolant also. I think with a white interior the yellow will really pop. i have a few cables within my case that i'm not overly happy about most of them coming from my corsair watercooler so i'll be happy to get rid of this. hopefully the case will look much more brighter and happy when finished

moving onto the Montana Acrylic Marker Set - Metalic
My wife is an artist so i will be employing her to draw me something on the front fan cover on my case possibly a large Freemason square and compass. but that's not set in stone and i'm still thinking about it


specs of pc are as followed
case corsair = corsair obsidian 750d
mobo = MSI Z97 MPOWER MAX
gpu = MSI radeon HD 7950
RAM = orsair Memory Vengeance Pro Series Silver 8GB DDR3 2133 MHz
cpu = Intel Core i7 4770K Haswell CPU


setup as it looks at the moment (note side of case has been taken off plus the cables dangling down are not actually inside the case lol
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Later on next year i shall also be installing a fitted corner desk. with a 3 monitor set up.


please stay with me and watch the transformation of my case. Send a quick reply so i know people are actually reading :(

any tips questions please ask tell
 
Thank you,

I do have shot blasting facilities at work BUT its proper shot blast and I don't know if it would be to rough a finish and make the painted service look rubbish??? any idea? i could not put the plastics in there as they would be obliterated hehe... other then that it will be wet and dry sandpaper :) prepare for sore fingers
 
Well I went out and bought some wet and dry from wickes 180g to 400g

Now is there any need to stand back between coats

Or can I just go one on top of another

Primer > base > top > varnish ?

Thanks all.
 
rentaspoon said:
I think it has to be a fine sand/shot but could you not try a small flat piece and if it does scratch it at least you can sand it down
Click to expand...

Found a company local that will sandblast all the metal parts of my case.... although when i was trying to get a quote they where a little you want us to prep what? i pc case dear!
 
update

My white paint came (forgot to order it )

all in all the paint has now cost me not far from £80

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stripped case just need to de-rivet now
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cannot live without pc
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as far as prepping before painting goes now. i have found a local company who are willing to do this for me. Not too expensive either.

Next update with be of me de riveting and then you will see a nice blasted case ready for painting cold tight guys
 
That case looks like it's got a factory paint finish.
If so just give it a wash (warm soapy water)
Rinse (water)
lightly sand with wet and dry (when still Wet) 1000g or 2000g would be better (car shop)
Wash, rinse and fully dry - prep done and your good to go.

No point getting it stripped back

I painted an LL S80B many summers ago.
Hope you got a garrage/shed spray painting outside in winter is no fun.
Needed 9-11 coats! inc primers (as bare metal) Base, Top and lacquer

In the spring I could add another base or top coat every 15ish mins.
Prime on day one 2 coats - leave overnight to dry
Day 2 - Wash, light sand, dry.
Base - 2 coats - leave overnight to dry
Day 3 - Wash, light sand, dry.
Top - 3-4 coats - leave overnight to dry
Day 4 - Wash, light sand, dry.
Lacquer - 2 fine coats (on top side only) leave 2 day
Day 6 - tack cloth
Lacquer - 2 fine coats (on final side) leave 2 days to dry

Do not let the lacquered side rest on anything for at least 2 days.
the top may be hard but underneath it's still jelly.

linky
 
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shadowscotland said:
That case looks like it's got a factory paint finish.
If so just give it a wash (warm soapy water)
Rinse (water)
lightly sand with the 400g wet and dry (when still Wet)
Wash, rinse and fully dry - prep done and your good to go.

No point getting it stripped back

I painted an LL S80B many summers ago.
Hope you got a garrage/shed spray painting outside in winter is no fun.
Needed 9-11 coats! inc primers (as bare metal) Base, Top and lacquer

In the summer I could add another base or top coat every 15-20 mins.
Prime on day one 2 coats - leave overnight to dry
Day 2 - Wash, light sand, dry.
Base - 2 coats - leave overnight to dry
Day 3 - Wash, light sand, dry.
Top - 3-4 coats - leave overnight to dry
Day 4 - Wash, light sand, dry.
Lacquer - 2 fine coats (on top side only) leave 2 day
Day 6 - tack cloth
Lacquer - 2 fine coats (on final side) leave 2 days to dry

No not let the lacquer side rest on anything for at least 2 days.
the top may be hard but underneath its still jelly like.
Click to expand...

This is very interesting concept not taking the old paint off. If I where to do this what primer would I use to me it would make no sense to use metal primer as it would not be metal in theory it would be paint I would be trying to key to paint with paint
 
Montana paint takes ages to harden. Even in summer when I painted N-Fenix it took around two weeks to fully harden.

It's top stuff though. I see you're using Gold. I used Black... (not the colour the type, for those who aren't familiar with it).
 
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ALXAndy said:
Montana paint takes ages to harden. Even in summer when I painted N-Fenix it took around two weeks to fully harden.

It's top stuff though. I see you're using Gold. I used Black... (not the colour the type, for those who aren'r familiar with it).
Click to expand...

any pictures mate?


as far as painting goes i have heated paint booths at work so all should be good :)
 
Yeah man no worries.

















It's very, very good paint. About the best you will get in a rattle can. However, do note that it comes out FAST, and thick. You need to know what you're doing. I didn't like the nozzles, they loved to clog, so when you are done painting make sure to turn the can upside down and spray until the 'air' coming out is clear.

It doesn't sand very well either, so be super careful not to get any runs.
 
1+ on the doesn't sand very well, I did a colour test on my front panel. Thinking I'll let it dry then just sand it back.... how wrong I was.


Update

All plastics are prepped ready for primer and fans are masked up also. I'll try and get them done today.
 
CASE PRIMED
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random pictures of all the white bits dark room does not do the finish justice it looks bloody mint for a rattle can i am very shocked
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2 coats of top coat done to all parts, all that is white will be staying white just need to let dry then varnish will be applied and left to cure before even attempting to re-assemble



H100i is saying a fond farewell and i will be replacing with thermalright silver arrow ib-e extream

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my son thought he would help today
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new thermalright silver arrow extreme installed

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case painted fully now pics will be posted tomorrow. just need to reinstall everything and finish off varnish

and graphics
 
Good job man. Yeah the finish is really nice on it, kinda like a matt to satin finish and it drys incredibly smooth :)

When I get my airbrush kit in the spring I will no doubt use Montana for the base coat. I'm not a fan of glossy finishes so will keep it satin :)
 
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