Project: fanless

[shadowscotland]

Well after a long wait and a sig that's said 'coming soon' for far to long I've finally started.

Still have a few item on their way but most of it's here but more on that later.

First off a photo's

This is the teaser I post some time back - basic mock up of my early idea (moved on a bit since then)

The plan (typing it up I just realised what I've set myself - should keep me busy for a few weekends )

Hardware:
MB: Asus P5Q (vanilla)
CPU: Intel [email protected]
RAM: Geil ULL 4x1gb
GPU: 8500GT
HDD: WD Raptor 36GB
HDD: SeaGate 300GB
PSU: Yesico FL550atx T2
Chassis: GMC R-2 Toast
Fans: None

Watercooling:
RAD: Zalman Reserator 2 (Modified)
RAD 2: DiscreteHeat Urban 400mm (Modified)
Pump: EHEIM 3w (Zalman Reserator 2)
RES: Zalman Reserator 2 (Modified)
CPU: XSPC Edge Acrylic (plus backplate)
NB: EK-NF4 rev1.1 Acetal (Modified)
GPU: DD Maze 5 or Silverprop Cyclone fusion HL
HHD: Alphacool Silentstar block (blocks only)
Tubing: Thinwall 1/2" (I think)
Barbs: ½” Various – mostly DD High Flow
Fluid: Home brew or Zalman G200 mix
Fans: None

Air cooling:
HHD: GUP Smart Drive 2002c (raptor)
HHD: Silentmaxx HD-silencer (SeaGate)
RAM: Zalman flower (Custom)
NB: Asus Copper Back plate
SB: Enzotech CNB-R1 revA
GPU: Thermalright HR-11 backplate
MosFet: Enzotech BMR-C1 / Heatpipe array
Fans: None

Features:
WCing: Custom passive loop
HHD: Custom HHD cage
HHD: Custom HHD elastic cradle
Case: Custom ‘stack effect’ baffle
Case: Internal Paint job
Case: PA 360 grill (base)
Case: Custom vent design (top)
Case: Custom window – Silverstone SP05 (Modified)
Mount: Speaker bracket
Mount: Custom wall bracket for WCing (previous build)
Power: Custom dado trunking (previous build)
Desk: Custom folding desk (previous build)
Fans: None

Oh might do some cable tiding/braiding/all that jazz - just to keep it neat and thread worthy

Here's my Abit IP35pro up and running in the GMC R2-toast (silly name but more on that later)

Close up showing that case is only just wider than a ATX mobo.

Replace ment P45 mobo - Asus P5Q (smaller width is a bonus) It's early days with this board so I'll add more when I get to the OCing sections.

Extra space - and I know just what to do with it

 

[shadowscotland]

Appoligies for the photo's - energy efficient lighting and nightime photo's with an old camera
They get the point across, just - will do some better shots at some point

SO what do you get if you cross a Zalman flower with Ram? a Kama wing

Cooling options - The Enzotech way or the Scythe way.

Home brew scythe wins

Rotate and repeat

The last one complete

Full set

More to come - as well as the who, what, where, when and why's.
Previous build thread is here so you know what came before and to save me repeating myself to much.

 

[shadowscotland]

After my final package arrived at work today I couldn't wait and decided to do a little more on my build.

My raptor is be somewhat noisey, which was significantly reduced with a bungee mod in my last case. To acheive the cradle in this current build required some case modifications that I can't do at night, But i can hard mount the two HDD enclosures tonight.

I've a silentmaxx HD-silencer for my data drive (seagate) that's very quiet anyway but the extra cooling is usefull.
And a GUP Smart Drive 2002C that I've been meaning to get for ages, this is for my raptor boot drive.

Both enclosures side by side - the Silentmaxx may have longer fins but it's a much smaller volume.

Always nice to open up a cooling element and see the shine of copper.
You'll also notice the different 'loading' strategies.

All loaded and ready to be closed - both are snug fits but the understated quality of the GUP is really impressive and the sound proofing much more complete with foam and special cable extenders inc.

The gap due to the reduced width Asus is perfect for mounting the enclosures - I be building a cradle and cage in this space later.

Well it's a lot quieter now - you can still hear it just above the soft hum of the stock cooler at 800rpm but the noise is softer as well as quieter and I've still to suspend it - highly recommented if you have the cash to burn.

Might try the raptor in the silentmaxx just to see the differance

 

[shadowscotland]

reserved 3

 

[shadowscotland]

Thanks for the comments guys. And I'll try and answer some of the questions (but not give to much away)

RAM related answers:

The idea is from the Scythe Kama Wing (linky) and yes in a normal or even OC'ed pc extra RAM cooling is slightly pointless.
But when you've no fans - over efficient cooling is very valuable.
It also key to forming an internal stack effect (more on that later too) - with warm air rising out the top of the case replaced by cool air entering the case through the base.

Oh yes and due to the 'wings' not extending to the very edges of the RAM heat spreader they are actually very easy to install and remove

Motherboard answers.

Well spotted Diggy - there are three motherboards pictured above.

Abit AW9D-max - now faulty but using it to showcase the ram and blocks currently and yes the XSPC is currently mounted incorrectly. This abit has a duel heat pipe cooling system that can be separated - why the other manufactures never took this up I don't know - more info in previous build thread (see link in second post)

Abit IP35pro - another great abit board, was in use up untill this weekend - RIP abit

Asus P5Q - moving to p45 for lower power usage - My E6600 is now running at 1.1v but Initial wattage at the wall test was disappointing... more on this later too as I'm still finding my way around the bios/eco software. I am however very pleased with the narrow size and o/b cooling as it makes removing it easier The copper NB base plate is also a bonus.
Still undecided on Enzotech or modified heatpipe approach to SB and MosFet will look at temps and decide.

But I've some major case mod's to do before all that

Watercooling answers:

Still using my Passive watercooling but may drop the reserator if I can source some new rads without it costing me the earth... AND meeting the wife’s approval (it is all mounted on our bedroom wall after all) The new Rads I’m looking at are fully lined with copper, as I'd like to move away from my mixed metal loop. But I don't have the budget of many of the builds here, so we'll see how it goes. Will post up my research anyway as other may want an alternative to the KoM and CC vertical aluminium passive rads available for the same reason.

And the 3w pump is the EHEIM pump inside the Res2 - The lower flow rate (~1gpm) is more that enough for a duel core - but not a quad.

 

[shadowscotland]

Fanless passive cooling works - their's loads of info on the web about it. Also major aftermarket cooling manufatures have full passive pc systems - Zalman (TNN & Reserator), innovatek (konvekt-o-matic) alphacool (Cape Cora) & mCubed (borg) to name four.

The o/b chipset cooling that mobo companies provide is designed with active airflow - as per intel's atx spec - but that doesn't mean passive can't work.

Air moves around with out the need of a fan, especially hot air. The key to not to 'trap' it inside the case or else you get thermal runaway. Which is very bad news.

I'm not really pushing the boundaries - Zalman TNN cases use heatpipes to acheive a working pc with no fans - I'm just using watercooling to remove the major heat and convection to remove the smaller amount that left.

It's a near silent pc build (can't afford quality SSD's) in a low ambient noise area.

As a side point the radient radiators I'm looking at work in a vaccum so no problems their either

@p4radox - full system spec will be posted in main reserved posts above.

 

[shadowscotland]

@gt - NB will be watercooled (EK) but that a very nice cooler.

SB will have either the Enzotech CNB-R1 revA (so far from low profile) or something simular to the mCubed borgFX.

I'm working on using the enzotech at the minute as the SB is not surposed to get very hot, and I like the copper and black look

I guess I could do some testing prior to any case mod's... it will be quiet so can happily get on with this type of thing while my son's asleep

@domthecondom - the title say it all no fan on the res or RAD see my last build thread of more information on my current loop (linky at bottom of second post)

Here's a nearly completed shot of my last build, and yes I did make the folding desk

Edit: @ snow dog - cutting holes (top/bottom) blocking holes (rear) using baffels (inside) to form flue.

Off to do a sketch and spec list so many of these questions are answered - I guess that why most logs are posted complete

 

[shadowscotland]

small update and some more pictures added - just for you gt

 

[shadowscotland]

Added a SPEC (to answer half the questions) and a Features list.

@JonJ678 - Fanless is not recomended for 99% of quiet pc builder. I think the Yesico and Mcubed psu's are the only ones that your warrent isn't void if you use it in a fanless system not that they can check
A single fan system is the way to go for a ultra quiet rig, but I've done that log already

 

[shadowscotland]

Doh! didn't plan anyway near enough spaces up top - Will just keep them of the final stuff and add to the thread as it goes. That way new readers get an overview, followed but the detail and subscriber just read the end.

Anyway had some noisey time today, with just me in the house so thought I'd chop up some metal. Now I've not done any visiable metal work since school - and now I know why many of the good folks here send there stuff off to me lazer cut (better edge, quicker, less hassle, and cheaper if you don't already have the metal working tools.)

Well Armed with my drill and drellel cutting disks I set about cutting four straight lines to form a rectangle. Not an easy task but I tell you all what I've learned.

1) don't bother unless your a metal worker with a workshop.
2) don't use the disk as a guide to cutting a straight line (you use them up really fast)
3) let the the disk do the cuting - they brake easily if twisted or forced
4) take your time - took me an hour inc redoing some areas that were 2-3mm of my guide line
5) expect to repaint any areas that you drellel - unless your a pro

Anyway - Here's the silverstone SP05 with the window removed - an easy job with a set of small allen keys

Next up is the naff T2 side panel - with it's punched metal grill.

Window and panel cut down - the window I cut with a hack saw bladed stab saw - and even being really carefull I wasn't carefull enough - you'll see the crack later

Close up - still need so serious fileing to give it a straight line (a curved window may have been easier)

Just the two elements together - far from the finished artical

I'll not be doing visiable metal work again - just don't have the tools to do it justice in a reasonable timescale. Anyway with a week of fileing and sanding ahead of me, at least I've got something (relatively quiet) I can be doing in the evenings

 

[shadowscotland]

Well after a good sand with the 60 / 150 / 600 and a buff with a non-stick scourer and some furnature polish my window
now has a shiney beveled edge (to match the other three machine cut ones)
Feeling much better away todays works
Even managed to tidy up the metal panel - need to use a file to get the lines parallel with the sides (or might just cheat and use edge trim....)

Shiney - can you guess the hand made bevel

 

[shadowscotland]

Personal the bungee/elastic cradle works best at it stops all the vibrational noise and costs next to nothing. It's only really Raptors that need the extra work to keep the noise down. Mine is a 36gb which I beleive is quieter than the others during seak but slight louder at idle.

Having said that the GUP has significanly reduced the seak noise - the reason I got it .
Should be even better when suspended as there is still some vibration.
Did mound the Raptor in the silentmaxx for a few mins - it's did work but just couldn't match the GUP so swapped it back. Don't have any dB testing equipment so can't give real values.

Edit:
Can only say that the GUP reduced both the volume and the pitch of the seak noise. The 'clicks' are more muted best way to explain is with an example.

Hold a pencil at one end, and tap the other end on the edge of a table - you get a 'sharp' tap noise.
Now holding the pencil as before tap the edge of the table with middle of the pencil - this time it's a 'softer' thud noise.

It's the same with the GUP, the raptors click is replaced with a tock. (hope that makes sence)

Will be doing some more on the panel tonight when the little man is asleep, and the wife is out with friends

 

[shadowscotland]

I can't work out what that copper is for. Isn't it surrounded by foam for noise damping?

The copper cradle (top) and plate (bottom) are connected to the outside by means of two reasonably thick heat transfer pads (~5mm)

@Grimgoth - yes the case will take an mATX mobo - but I've always owned ATX boards so was looking for a small case that would fit a full sized mobo and psu's. If I owned a mATX board I've have used a different case. Having said that this case would make a good active watercooling mATX build ideal for LAN parties, using the case floor to mount the Rad/pump

 

[shadowscotland]

It will not look like a hash when finished - but in total agreement about getting it machined next time.

 

[shadowscotland]

Thanks to my son being very ill all weekend I've had no progress and no sleep this weekend.
But there is some progress on parts:
After a MM request - I'm now in possession of 3 additional heatpipes (more to follow)
with a X-Fi Extreme music and two sets of Koolance VL4’s on route.

The Koolance quick connectors are the new ‘Extreme Flow’ versions seen below.
The second image is the older High flow ones for a comparison. The Zalman quick connectors
that come with the Res2 have been replaced with plastic barbs as they where the
most restrictive part of the loop. But the ability to de-gas the RES and split the loop when
wall mounted is a must. Money well spent imho but I’ll take some glossy shots when they arrive.
As with the GUP I’ve been meaning to get these for a while now, as the CPC and Eheim QC’s
no longer have the flow advantage and don’t look anyway near as nice

 

[shadowscotland]

A little more to report durring the two hours the little one's been asleep.
Note: Only use your hands to bend heatpipes - tools will very easily dent/crush them.
Also unbending bends is very hard - if possable stick to bending straight bits.

Here's my model Mobo (with 3/4 of the Zalman flower ram mod visable to the rear

Here's my new X-Fi - complete with 'pin' Al Heatsink

And here's one of my MM heatpipes - it's been bend to match the x-fi.

Actual Asus P5Q in case - showing Left hand side Mosfet cooling

Heat pipe alturnative

 

[shadowscotland]

The other MosFet was/is a problem currently
Heatpipe work best with mavity aiding the liquid condensate returning to the hot end.
So I wanted to rotate the pipe within the Finned MosFet block 180 so the pipe points up (and not down as designed) Not easy - will try cutting it free when I can make more noise.

Pipe in original form

Removing the linking fins (last three still joined) and losening the punched copper fins was still not enought to allow the pipe to rotate. The copper heatpipes are especially soft

 

[shadowscotland]

They've arrived

Components parts (female connector on left)

 

[shadowscotland]

That's a great idea - might get one of these anyway - should make for much neater bends. I have a MosFet waterblock on its way so will be using that instead now.

 

[shadowscotland]

Ok i'm seated how much are we talking for a length of Heatprofile

I have 6 length of 450mm (cut by them) - or .4m2 of radient surface (or about 1m2 surface area)

Oops, really must read peoples posts twice when I'm tired.
Cost me £30 as a 'sample' for work on a potential job.
And I did show a single section to the client btw

Will try and post some images of the decreteheat and heatprofile sections when I get home.