Project UnderOverStated - A 900D Watercooling Migration

Soldato
Joined
13 Jan 2004
Posts
21,079
Have been wanting to go Custom Loop Water Cooling for a while and the death of the H100, pictured below, prompted me to do so. This will be a first trip into Custom Loop WC for me so a sharp learning curve. Have watched plenty of instructional videos and read guides, there certainly was plenty I had not considered prior to doing so.

Why UnderOverStated? A 900D can never be classed as understated/subtle! And a Single GPU/CPU 2x480 Rad Loop has massive headroom over the current hardware. My part/colour choice is pretty subtle - That is, mostly neutral. Blacks and clears. I like a colour coded scheme but not if it means changing out a whole load of WC parts because my motherboard changes from one colour to another :D

As a result there is a fair amount of kit going into the 900D, not all of it is extreme, nor necessary and irrespective of that fact - It's all going to be pretty neutral! If I want to accent a certain colour in the future I can do it via LEDs and Coolant colour, rather than swapping out blocks, tubing or otherwise. Big case, pretty big loop and pretty middle of the road hardware in places - Hence UnderOverStated! The case and loop will serve as a platform with headroom for Multi-GPU and bigger CPU/Motherboard (With WC Blocks) in the future.

Parts Already in Situ:

Corsair 900D
i7 2600k / ASUS P8P67
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SSD / 2 x 2TB Seagate 7200RPM HDDs in RAID-0
nVidia GTX 780Ti
ASUS Xonar STX
Superflower Leadex Platinum 1000W
Lamptron FC2 6 Channel Analogue Fan Controller
Corsair SP/AF120s


Parts En-Route:

XSPC D5 Photon 270 Reservoir/Pump Combo
EK Water Blocks EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Nickel
XSPC EX480 120mm Radiator - Black x 2
EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy - Nickel
Corsair SP120 Performance Series High Pressure x 4
Koolance QD3 Male Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Compression for 10mm x 13mm
Koolance QD3 Female Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Compression for 10mm x 13mm
Koolance QD3 Male Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Male Threaded G 1/4 BSPP
Mayhems X1 Clear Premixed Watercooling Fluid 1L
Primochill Primoflex Advanced Tubing 13/10 - Clear
EK Water Blocks EK-PLUG Fitting G1/4 - Plexi
EK Water Blocks EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 - Black
BitFenix Alchemy Molex Extension Adaptor 45cm - Black

Parts To Get:
Tube cutter
Distilled Water
Funnel
#6-32 Thread Tap and #36 Drill bit

Pictures

Build as it currently stands
buildasis.JPG


1 x Dead H100
deadh100.JPG


Basement Prepped. That is installtion of the 480 mounting brackets and gutting of all un-used parts. 3 x Lower HDD Caddy Slides / 2nd PSU Rest / Second HDD Caddy / Lower Front Bay 120MM Fan Brackets
lower480.JPG

frontbay.JPG

guttedparts.JPG


Single remaining HDD Caddy (Hotswap one) relocated to upper front position
hddcaddy.JPG


Pictures of the Lamptron FC2 and Superflower Leadex
psu.JPG

lamptron.JPG


Problems

The Superflower Leadex - It only ships with a SINGLE 3 x Molex Plug cable. This presents 2 problems. You only have 3 available Molex power points out of the box. Those 3 points are all in close proximity to each other. This has left me ordering Molex extension leads in order to run Molex to 3 very distinct locations. That being Lamptron FC2, Watercooling Pump, ASUS Xonar STX. All 3 extensions will run to behind the motherboard tray and connect to the cable managed 3 x Molex PSU lead there. That will be my Molex connectivity saturated without using 1 into X converters or somehow sourcing another Superflower Molex PSU lead - Where from?!?!

The Loop and Drain Line Idea

Loop design is pretty standard. An upper and lower 480, a Res/Pump combo and a single GPU and CPU Block to link in. Loop will most likely run as follows:

PumpRes Combo > GPU > CPU > Upper 480 > Lower 480 > PumpRes Combo.

I've been careful to ensure that the lower rad Upper port will connect to the Res Input to ensure that it can bleed properly. From everything that I have read the most common advice is that loop order makes no difference and it should be designed to ensure minimum tube length. That's what I have gone for here. Any pointers if I have made an obvious mistake or will compromise performance please do shout!


Additionally I want a hassle free loop. As a result a drain line was necessary. OcUK have no stock for making T-Lines or otherwise so I felt I want to go for something a little more fancy. Not cheap, not super expensive but worth it for the ease of use (hopefully). The idea is to run a G1/4 Male QDC in the Lower 480 Bottom port. This will connect to the Upper 480 Output via tube with a Female Compression QDC at the end. This will mate with the lower 480 in the basement of the 900D, right next to the basement door opposite the lower 480 - plenty of room here! The drain loop will be installed by de coupling the loop QDCs and then attaching another separate Female Compression QDC to the lower 480 Male QDC - A length of tubing with nothing on the other end will serve as the drain line out of the side of the case. In my mind it should work, it's hard to explain in words but hopefully when the kit arrives and is installed pictures will clear it up.

Next steps
Removal of H100 / Preparation of CPU Surface
Removal of 780Ti Stock Cooler / Preparation of GPU Surface
Identify mounting point for Photon 270 Res/Pump Combo and investigate possibility of tapping 6-32 thread into the Motherboard tray for direct attachment via screw.
Flush Radiators with Distilled Water
Installation of Blocks/Flushed Rads
Testing proposed Tube route and Drain Line
Final assembly/leak testing
 
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Subbed :)

The Superflower Leadex - It only ships with a SINGLE 3 x Molex Plug cable.

Oh really. This I hadn't foreseen. Have just purchased one for my build. Let us know how you get on fitting the EK block...got three to fit here. Everything else I'm fairly confident with now, but never fitted a GPU block before. It's fairly straight forward though.
 
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Hmm, did some more research.

- 1x 20+4-Pin ATX12V/EPS12V
- 1x 8-Pin EPS12V
- 1x 4+4-Pin ATX12V/EPS12V
- 8x 6+2-Pin-PCIe
- 10x SATA
- 5x 4-Pin-Molex
- 1x Floppy
- Warranty: 5yr

Description is a little misleading. There are 2 more Molex connections but they are hidden on a SATA power cable!

So you get 5 total across 2 cables.
 
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I'd put that PSU rest back in as it will help your lower 480 rad line up with the screw holes on the mounting bracket (you have screwed this in place too?). They really could have done with supplying three of the PSU's rests as it would have made installing my lower 480 much easier as with a support at both ends all the mount points would have lined up perfectly.
 
I'd put that PSU rest back in as it will help your lower 480 rad line up with the screw holes on the mounting bracket (you have screwed this in place too?). They really could have done with supplying three of the PSU's rests as it would have made installing my lower 480 much easier as with a support at both ends all the mount points would have lined up perfectly.

Bracket is screwed in yes. As for the PUS rest, not sure the EX (Slimmer) rads will even reach that far into the case. Will investigate when parts arrive and if it will help then will throw it back in.
 
All went well, no leaks, everything bled nicely.

No post. 780Ti is dead. 680 works in same slot, systems posts ok so that rules out CPU/Mobo/Memory.

Have never had an issue changing out a reference cooler before now. The one time it decides to kill something it kills a 780Ti.

Project on hold till GPU replaced!

(Unless there is something quirky about 780Tis and fitting waterblocks I don't know about - Doubtful though :p)
 
Hmmm

Is it the same with the reference cooler back on?

I have heard of some blocks being particularly nasty if thermal pads slip, as shorts would stop posting, though i think some of these cases were fine after re-applying the block or putting on the stock cooler again. would be interested to see what happened as putting on a GPU block is pretty much the same as every other block.

Bad luck on the GPU bro, hope you are up and running soon. Looking forward to seeing some results!

Any pics of the PCB after the block was removed? (Before any TIM is cleaned up)
 
EK recommendation of star method is bad, spread is bad and simply puts too much TIM on. Although the enclosed TIM is ALLEGEDLY non electrically conductive I'm not sure how much I can trust that statement. It's Gelid GC Extreme which, according to spec, should not be electrically conductive.

Did 2 reseats of the water block, same result.

Put reference blower cooler back on, 100% fan speed on power up, system posts but no display output. Definitely dead. Double annoying as it was a decent clocker.

Best part of £470 down the pan, which could have been a whole new Haswell CPU/Mem/Mainboard. Oh well :o

Will write up the build log pictures tomorrow whilst I wait for Mr DPD to bring a new GPU :p
 
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The TIM is definitely non conductive, as i have used it for a number of motherboard blocks and GPU blocks. The recommended TIM method is deffo overkill. For direct chip cooling, i always use a thin paste and spread it a bit with the end of the syringe and try to shape it to avoid bubbles by making the centre a bit thicker with paste. I then reseat it to check if the contact with chip and pads were okay and if i could have gotten away with less TIM.

What have you decided to do with the 780ti?
 
Querying that with OcUK. MSI allows for cooler removal, but whether an RMA/Warranty investigation will occur is unknown at the moment. Seems unlikely though.

If OcUK don't want it back it'll go in the bin. Maybe I'll try oven bake it first should that be the case :p

Also, opened this thread:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18565977

Curious to know why what I think are coils that do not need cooling are the subject of thermal pads in the EK guide AND do not appear to make any contact with the block.
 
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Damn! Hope you get the graphics card sorted

Any chance of a sneak preview of what the completed build looks like? (I'm thinking of watercooling my setup, just want to see some others for inspiration/ideas)
 
Sure, have a sneak preview with a little Xmas cheer in the background :p

Unfinished of course:

sneakpeek_900dwc.jpg


The 900D is a lovely case to work with. Had no issues at all with routing of tubing, but am going to throw some 45 Deg fittings in to ease some of the routes. I'm only using 10/13mm tubing and some places might be prone to kinking, would be careful with larger ID/OD tubing depending on your intended route or go for something with a thicker wall.
 
New GPU arrived, block installed and all working.

Can finally mess around! Then finish the Project Log after :D

Sneak Preview - Idle Temps

idle_temps.jpg


A quick as you like 1219 Core 3649 mem heaven 4 Run.

1219-3649.jpg


Max recorded GPU temp - 34 Deg C. Giggling like a schoolchild to say the least.

Need food now though!
 
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Any reason you didnt go for thicker rads? it looks a bit lost up there.

Combination of stock availability and research.

Primarily I want a quieter system. The EX series is optimised for slower RPM fans, uses split fin design and at lower RPMs performs just as well as thicker rads.

Thicker rads get better performance with higher RPM but marginally so. From everything I could lay my hands on to read rad thickness actually makes little difference to loop performance.

Aesthetically thicker rads might have filled the case up more but not by much.

Performance wise I could not have asked for more. Cannot get the CPU above 58 Deg C (Hottest Core) even in synthetic stress tests and not seen the GPU go above 38.

Will write up the log today I think!
 
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