Quest 3 owners etc

Got the new UI as well on the Quest 2, not impressed at all, wish there was some way to turn it off and have the good old solid easy to see UI again. Anyone know if there is?
 
Good lord it's awful!
Thankfully I'm used to using my Q3. If I was new I'd be very confused. It's so bad. I used to be able to hop out of VD and check my whatsapp panel.. But now I have to click on the whatsapp app each time?
Also when I first turn it on it's on passthrough and there's no taskbar or anything in view. Just a little white line. Nothing to even say press a button or anything.
Amazing how this stuff gets pushed out.
 
V2.3 The camera/video app now has frame marks to show you what area you're capturing/recording, with options for on, off and auto hide after a couple of seconds.
 
Pretty sure, given when it was released, someone at Meta took their kids into work during the Easter break and the kid designed the interface...

Its god awful...
 
I mean i dont think its terrible, but i cant see whats improved, i have to learn how to do some things again, and 1 or 2 things are worse i.e. the app display names are heavily aliased and look awful.
 
I am somewhat getting used to it now, but for a beginners at VR and the Quest headsets, I think it would be a hard enough learning curve getting used to it.
 
PCVR.

Thought I'd share this.....

I had previously been using a Meta 5m cable to do Iracing. After a lot of tweaking I got a decent, acceptable picture quality. It was fine.

A facebook friend suggested a new, to me, method of connecting the Q3 to my pc for Iracing PCVR. Oh, my giddy aunt. What an improvement. Image/picture quality is superb now.

So now I'm using an ethernet to usb adapter, virtual desktop with wireless switched off, (the Q3 is connected via usb lead to the ethernet adapter), Open XR and steam VR running in the background. I'm very impressed with this method. Getting a very stable 90fps on Ultra settings in VD.

My hardware: 7800X3D cpu with a 4080S gpu
 
How do you guys deal with drift on a controller if its not especially bad,

1 Use some wd 40 contact spray around the thumbstick that might make it better.
2 Can't stand even a small amount of drift, and will get a new controller if necessary.
3 If the above spray has failed to fix the problem just live with it.

Reason I'm asking is I have some drift on the right quest 2 controller have used an air duster and adjusted the dead zone percentage which does help, have yet to try that wd 40 contract spray.

The drift is not particularly bad at the moment and though I do have an after care from a well known uk High street shop until April 27, I haven't reached the stage yet that I want to submit for a repair. Previously when the left controller thumbstick broke I got it repaired under the policy which was great.

Just wondering since I have seen where the Quest 3 controllers can suffer from drift too, how have you dealt with it?

Thanks.
 
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How do you guys deal with drift on a controller if its not especially bad,

1 Use some wd 40 contact spray around the thumbstick that might make it better.
2 Can't stand even a small amount of drift, and will get a new controller if necessary.
3 If the above spray has failed to fix the problem just live with it.

Reason I'm asking is I have some drift on the right quest 2 controller have used an air duster and adjusted the dead zone percentage which does help, have yet to try that wd 40 contract spray.

The drift is not particularly bad at the moment and though I do have an after care from a well known uk High street shop until April 27, I haven't reached the stage yet that I want to submit for a repair. Previously when the left controller thumbstick broke I got it repaired under the policy which was great.

Just wondering since I have seen where the Quest 3 controllers can suffer from drift too, how have you dealt with it?

Thanks.

Contact lubricant is better than just contact cleaner, but ultimately the wiper has eroded the conductive track. and things will only get worse. If you're going to go down the spray route, you'll need to prise the controller faceplate off and remove the joystic topper, it just pulls off. Turn the controller so that the thumbstic ifs facing down and blast air up the side of the stick with an airline or canned air to remove loose conductive particles. Then spray a tiny amount of the lubricant down the side of the stick, and rotate the stick to work it in. Replace the topper and the faceplate.
This is only going to be a temporary measure. It's a very easy job to replace the joystick module and thre are several excellent tutorials on youtube. Replacement joystick modules are a couple of quid, and it's worth testing for correct functionality with the controller minimally resassembled as replacement sticks can also have issues. You don't want to completely assemble it and find the replacement is a dud. A little more joystick stuff here - https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/diy-repairs-cleaning-etc.18993507/page-2#post-37655741
 
Don't use WD40 as it strips the lubricant off the potentiometer. It's best to use potentiometer cleaner that also lubricates. Apparently this works great.


I have been using a little WD40, not knowing it could be an issue, for one of my Xbox controllers as the B key occasionally sticks. Do you know of any cleaner that could be better and link it please.?

Thanks
 
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I have been using a little WD40, not knowing it could be an issue, for one of my Xbox controllers as the B key occasionally sticks. Do you know of any cleaner that could be better and link it please.?

Thanks

Specialist fader/potentiometer cleaner is actually pretty expensive.
DeoxIT Fader F5 is one, but it's nearly £30.

But for buttons rather than sticks, ordinary electrical contact cleaner would be cheaper.

For thumbsticks a fader/potentiometer cleaner is best as it both cleans and lubricates.
 
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