Quote for electric work

[Ahleckz]

I'm looking to rent out a two bedroom flat, and got an EICR completed yesterday and just wanted to sense check the quote:



The consumer unit needs replaced, I accept that. Is £400+VAT OK?
Socket replacement - I need a new socket put in for my cooker. £40+VAT seems OK for this but unsure?
IP Light Replacement - There is "minimal IP protection on bathroom light". I think this is only a recommendation, so if that's the case I don't think I'll go ahead with that.
Kitchen Light Switch - £35 + VAT to replace a switch seems high. I can do this myself, right?
Continuity - I think I have a socket which needs replaced. I'd plan to replace this myself like for like but regardless I'll have to pay this.
Shower Cable - Again, I think this is a recommendation so don't think I'd do it.

So, main questions - Is consumer unit pricing sensible? Can I replace a light switch myself?

 

[Ahleckz]

Thanks guys, some good advice.

I'm going to go back and ask what unit they are planning on supplying, it seems a bit pricey based on how much they cost but get that there is some labour (albeit, isn't it just plugging stuff in?).
I'll ask about the continuity, I think I know what the issue is (a picture hit a socket, and dislodged the wires inside so hopefully if I can connect that back then the continuity shouldn't be an issue)...
The socket for the oven, there is a spur I think with a blanking plate but I'm not very confident about putting in a new socket so I think I'll just let them do that.

I'm not going to replace the light, unless they say I have to and then I'll be looking at getting a much cheaper one and doing it myself! £90 to fit a light, no thanks.
Kitchen light switch, I can replace it like for like for £4 so will be doing that myself.
I don't see the need for trunking the shower cable.

Should save myself £200, maybe more if I can sort the continuity and then hopefully get some money off for the unit.

Does it need replaced though? If it was installed to the current regs at the time of installation then it is still legal.

I saw a YT video once where some folk have had a 16th edition CU that was installed to the T and fully conformed to the 16th regs, replaced for a new 18th edition CU only it was installed by a cowboy with loads of corners cut and in the end was a bad job. All because they thought they had to have a new box.

This is the list of faults with it, so I think that it does need replaced but I'm clearly not an electrician! But I do think it's a bit pricey.

C2 Main live terminal damaged

C2 Signs of thermal damage on MCB’s

C2 Circuits not adequately fused protected

C2 Consumer unit not to IP4X

C3 Consumer unit is made of combustible materials

C3 Absence of circuit charts

 

[Ahleckz]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll get a quote from someone else at the very least. The original company have sent over my failing EICR report. I trust if I get someone else to fix the issues, and they give me a certificate of small works completed then I'm compliant?

I'm just trying to save some money, as I also need to buy a new sodding fridge freezer for the place and just put a new boiler in a couple months ago. I'm not one of these terrible BTL people, I just happened to move in with my girlfriend and planned to rent my place out for a year as the plan is to buy a house if we can handle living together! Bah!

Here are pictures of the fuse box:

They have said this about installing a new board:

The consumer unit we are fitting is a British General RCD protected consumer unit with new 16mm meter tails and appropriate glands etc.


Breakdown for the consumer unit is:

Labour 4 hours @ £60 plus vat, £240 plus vat

Materials £160 plus vat

Total £400 plus vat

It's a touch high but I'm not familiar with the prices in Glasgow.

Anything with a C1 / C2 on the report needs to be addressed either by yourself or someone else, there is nothing stopping you getting a second quote else where, the report does not tie you to that electrician.

At a guess the CU is fairly old and repairing it is either not possible due to obsolete parts or it's just easier to replace, £400 is a touch high but not excessive.

Do you have a list of the observations and the codes.

This is what they've put down.

C2 Main live terminal damaged

C2 Signs of thermal damage on MCB’s

C2 Circuits not adequately fused protected

C2 Consumer unit not to IP4X

C3 Consumer unit is made of combustible materials

C3 Absence of circuit charts

To rectify the above C2 and C3 issues a new consumer unit is required


C1 Access to live terminal behind oven, a new double socket is required

C2 Damaged light switch in kitchen, new light switch required

C2 No continuity of line conductor on socket ring main

C3 Minimal IP protection on bathroom light, Recommend fitting new IP rated light.

C3 Shower cable requires to be clipped correctly

Consider asking him if he'd consider doing it on day works, quite often quoted works are higher because he's got to cover the risk he takes of unexpected things popping up. I'd expect he'd charge you a full day (in the range of £260-£300) and then upto £200 of materials.

The existing board might be able to be sorted without replacing it, but that depends on if MCBs are available for it etc. (is photo available?) A new board 'might' be the best option, I'd be wary about BG though, their RCDs are all type AC afaik, theres been a bit of a move to type A, and its possible that type AC might be recommended for upgrade in a few years time. Its a shame because the build quality of BG boards is pretty good. I'd generally go for Hager in most cases these days.

I think that's the issue, I've put a photo above but I don't think the parts are available. Edit - I can get some new breakers (and the thing that the main power cable comes into the property). Seems to me I could buy the parts, get an electrician to replace them for a lot cheaper.

Anyone in Glasgow fancy some work?...

 

[Ahleckz]

Cheers again.

I didn’t realise the board was that old! I think I’ll just suck it up and pay the money for the new board and get them to install the socket.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Ahleckz]

Hi,

So, I'm trying to fix some of the issues myself. I'm trying to sort this:
"C2 No continuity of line conductor on socket ring main"

I assume that means that there's a problem with the wires of a socket perhaps being loose? Now, it could be the wires in the walls or it could be an issue with the actual wiring in the socket. If it's the latter, I should be able to sort this...

If I buy this little gadget, will that tell me if there is a fault that I can then fix and hopefully eradicate the issue? They want £80 to come and test, and then more to fix the problem. But if I can hopefully check all the sockets, fix any issue then they will just check the continuity again and if fine won't charge me. So, is this what I need? Or do I need a multimeter?
@Adam_151 or @ZG002 would appreciate any suggestions!

www.screwfix.com/p/lap-ms6860d-socket-tester/91596
https://www.diy.com/departments/b-q-230-v-socket-tester/178677_BQ.prd

 

[Ahleckz]

Definitely not going into the consumer unit!

I'm just going to unscrew each socket (there can't be more than around 10 in the flat) and see if there's anything obvious. If not, I'll just have to stump up for some investigation work.

I've got another quote for a new board, and to issue small works certificates for £390 all in which is a £90 saving from the original people. I'm right in thinking that with the old report (with some passes and some fails) and a new report passing the fails, I'm compliant?

 

[Ahleckz]

Hi, sorry. This is turning into an absolute nightmare. I may just end up paying the money...

So, my issue today is this. I thought I'd install a new socket for the oven to save £40. I've installed a double backbox, and went to wire in the wires however they were just too thick to get in the holes.

That's got me thinking, am I able to simply install a standard 13amp 2 gang switched socket, and plug my cooker into that (and my hob into the other socket). I believe that this socket is a spur from a 'proper' cooker switch. If I am, are there any switches that will handle a 'bigger' cable as I just can't get it in (oh er) with the basic 13amp 2 gang switch I bought from Screwfix?...

This is a picture of what is there before (but I've now got a 2gang back box). The black sheathed cable leading away at the bottom is being removed and the thicker wires coming from the right are the spur...



This is the socket that the spur comes off, which I am questioning whether I'm allowed to install a socket. It's quite a learning curve this, sorry if I'm coming across as a complete idiot but I'm keen to learn and save a bit of cash!

 

[Ahleckz]

Im not sure what you are trying to do? You cant have a hob plugged in unless its just the ignitor for a gass one, electric hobs will be more than 13A. Normal way is to fit a twin accessory box (like two singles, joined) rather than a double, and have a cooker connection unit (like you already have) on one side for the hob, and a 13A single socket other side for oven.

Were does the 2.5mm cable go on that cooker outlet (the thinner twin and earth), where does the black flex go?

Sorry for the confusion.

The hob is gas, so it's just a sparker.

The black flex goes to a single switch which had a extension on which the oven and hob was plugged into (with the whole thing just sitting on the floor of the unit) - this is what has obviously failed the EICR and which is why I was advised to fit a new double switch which is what I'm trying to do.

THe other cables (not going to the black cable) all go to a cooker switch at the counter level.

I should add - the terminal capacity states 1 x 6mm. I could buy one which has 2x4mm, to me that should mean there is more room which is my issue?... I literally can't get all the wires into the holes...

Here's an extremely bad sketch...

 

[Ahleckz]

So other than that black flex the others go back to the cooker switch?

Are you sure?

Nope...

I can't take a picture (phoned died when I was working on it, and I'm not at the property now). There is one thick cable with a bunch of wires in it, and then another cable that is one wire but is quite thick (but not as thick as the other one when they are all combined). No idea what mm the wires are, sorry!

Terminal capacity seems to be what I'm looking for. I have a switch which accepts 1x6mm, but I'm going to buy one that accepts 2x4mm (https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneide...te/6232j#product_additional_details_container) and see if that works better for me...

 

[Ahleckz]

Why people mess around with electrics when they have no clue is beyond me! By the time you have messed around with them and bodged them it will cost a damn sight more than quoted! Not worth it, buy once cry once.

You only learn by doing! They wanted £75 to replace a light switch and install a socket. I changed the light switch in minutes, and put the majority of the new switch in pretty quickly. Just struggling with the wires getting in the holes. Sure, I could pay someone and sit on my arse watching The Simpsons whilst they do it but I've got nothing else to do in the evening so may as well learn how to do it. That way, when I next need to do this I'll know how to and not need to pay anyone to install a socket again.

WHy doesn't everyone just buy a PC from Currys instead of building their own? Some people like to try and learn. And sure, I'm a huge novice with sod all experience in DIY but for me that's more reason to have a go! I'm being careful, I'm not bodging it and I'm seeking advice when I'm struggling. If I can't do it, I'll get someone in to sort it. I've spent £3 on 3 switches, £2 on a backbox and £2 on a lightswitch... SO if it doesn't work, I've wasted £7 and a few hours in the evening. It's not the end of the world.

 

[Ahleckz]

The cable sizes look to be 6mm and 2.5mm.

The 6mm will typically come from the cooker switch at bench level to the outlet (the part you are trying to change)

You need to work out where the 2.5mm is going as it's not a usual part of the cooker circuit.

It may be the case that it's not needed and all you need to actually connect is the 6mm (which should fit the socket outlet you have).

Interesting. If I don't need it, can I just tape it up and ignore it? Or should I remove it? There is a plug socket to the left of the 'cooker cavity' which I suppose it could belong to and hopefully should be easy to figure out (I'll just unscrew the switch, and tug the wires and see if it moves I suppose). I would then just replace that socket with a blanking plate.

I'm going to buy a different brand of switch which looks a bit more accessible and try that and if that doesn't work then I'll try the above. Again, thanks for your help! Once I get this all sorted, I'll paypal you and Adam a beer!