Rampage Extreme II

Franco_cov

Franco_cov

Franco_cov

Associate
Joined
7 Sep 2007
Posts
547
Guys,
I currently have 2x HD4890 in cross fire using the 2 blue slots now i did have a xfi pci card but there is no room to use it as the pci slots are covered by my gfx cards. So I was thinking of getting the pci-e titanium card but have seen that it wont fit in the lack audio pci-e slot that is used by the plug in card that comes with the board as the heat sink gets in the way ?

So I was thinking it i put it in the 3rd white pci-e slot a) will the card work and b) will it affect my x16 performance in my crossfire setup?

Anyone have this board and know first hand of the problem I am facing ?

Thanks in advance
 
I currently have two GTX275 graphics cards in the top and bottom PCI-Express slots, and an Asus Xonar D2X in the bottom PCI-Express slot. Despite this my grpahics cards are still running in full 16X SLi. I am unsure how adding another device in the bottom slot would affect Crossfire though.
 
^Bump ^ anyone ?

Also has anyone had a problem with the block on the rear of the cpu with this board making contact with the rear panel of the case? And if so did you experience any shorting etc?? As I am having a problem with the cosmos s powering my board uop itself and then shutting down after 5 secs and then is dead until i disconnect the power from the switch and then re-attch the power and all works fine until I power everything off at the mains and start again?
 
Also back to my original topic with regards to my pci-e slots I have found the following, can someone clarify does this mean that I can have my 2xhd4890's in the first 2 blue slots as crossfire and put a titanium pci-e sound card in the 3rd white pci-e slot and would mean my crossfire would run at x16 and my soundcard at x1 (I assume the soundcard does not need to have a fast slot)

Found this text:-

"If you install a PCIe x16 graphics card on the PCIex16_1 slot, a PCIe device with a bandwitch faster than x8 link to the PCIe x16_2 slot, and a PCIe device with a bandwidth slower than x4 link to the PCIe x16_3 slot the three PCIe x16 slots will work at x16, x16, x1 link as the default"
 
Hi Franco

The first PCIe slot is always 16x. You have a BIOS option that lets you choose either 8x and 8x or 16x and 1x for the 2nd and 3rd PCIe slots.

So either 16x,16x,1x or 16x,8x,8x.

Check out you're BIOS: Advanced>Chipset>North Bridge Config>PCI Express Selector. This is on 3-27 of the R2E manual (or at least it is in the manual I have).

I don't have a Titanium, but according to Creative's requirements for this card it will run on a 1x slot.

http://uk.europe.creative.com/produ...1&subcategory=208&product=17813&nav=1&listby=

A Titanium card may even run on the slot devoted to the onboard soundcard, but not sure if it would physically fit. The heatpipe/heatsink may get in the way. I'm sure I saw something about this over at the Asus R2E forums.

A 16x,16x,1x setup should be OK.

I would check out with Creative about the Titanium running on 1x slot before going any further.
 
Thanks TooManyPc's it does say on the creative site it accepts all speeds of pcie slot so thats good and I remember seeing that option in bios so sounds promising.

Just the power switch boot up issue I have to sort now have you encountered any of the following:-

Also has anyone had a problem with the block on the rear of the cpu with this board making contact with the rear panel of the case? And if so did you experience any shorting etc?? As I am having a problem with the cosmos s powering my board uop itself and then shutting down after 5 secs and then is dead until i disconnect the power from the switch and then re-attach the power and all works fine until I power everything off at the mains and start again?
 
When you say 'block', which block? Could you be more specific, a photo maybe?

To rule out you're power switch you could connect the reset button to the power switch header on the mobo. This will let you use the reset button as you're power switch.

Both the power and reset buttons are 'push to make' type. Do not connect the power button to the reset header. It sounds like you you may have a power button with an intermittent fault on the switch contacts. This just means you'll have no reset available.

However, if you suspect a short circuit between the mobo and the case then this could also be the cause of your power probs.

Most PC power supplies with shut off immediately if a short circuit is detected.

To be absolutely sure, you would have to take the mobo out of the case and boot it up. If you can, that is. If you're water cooled taking out the mobo may not be so easy.

If you can, try putting some electrical insulating tape on the part of the case where you suspect the short circuit.
 
I'm using the rampage II extreme and I had the same problem with the soundcard... I managed to apply some physical cosmetics to it. I'm now using Creative's Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium - Fatal1ty Champion Series 7.1 Sound Card. You can easily bend and snap off the first 4 fins of your northbridge heatsink. They come off really easily. Having done that, you will be able to easily fit a proper sound card on it. No issues with it whatsoever afterwards. The heat spreader still functions the same and with no noticeble temperature increase.
 
Sory I should have been more clearer, the cosmos s case has a power button only thats it.... no reset etc and the power button is a sensor so no mecanical push button just touch your finger on it.

Now if I disconnect the power to this switch and attach an old mechanical push type switch to the header of the board it seems to work everytime, so would that rule out the possibility of a short if it works ok with a push button rather than using the sensor power button ?

PakJai maybe able to help me with this one the block i mention is I think the "Stack Cool" metal pad I believe they fit on these boards as standard. Now with the i7 they recommend adding an extra thick metal plate to help with the weight of the heatsink. But as I was using water cooling anyway and the plate definately made it impossible for the board to sit right i decided to leave that off but there is still a square shape metal plate that coms with the board fitted on.
 
Sensor for a power button. That's great! It saves having to waste energy pushing a button. All these years pushing the button will probably give me arthritis, but at least I have forearms like Popeye...

Joking aside, replace the 'sensor' with another one or 'real' button if you can. (And don't forget the spinach....ugh,ugh,ugh)

If you're system works OK with a mechanical switch what is happening with the 'block' at the rear of the CPU and the case? (post #10)
 
Basically what the metallic silver plate at the back helps spread some of the heat away from the cpu, it is also designed to give it a bit more torque when you apply the backplate for your cpu heatsink plus it prevents you from over tightening it and damaging the board.
 
I get it now, you mean the Asus Stack Cool plate, thanks PakJai.

The stack cool plate has an insulated piece of plastic between it and the mobo and therefore should not short circuit with the mobo tray.

Just a question, Franco, do you have the CPU water cooled? If so, you should have fitted an additional backplate for you're CPUs water block. This second plate is to prevent the mobo from bending.

Here is an example of a backplate:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-015-EK&groupid=701&catid=193&subcat=1044

Yes, I know this is for a LGA 775 and not the LGA 1366. There are backplates for the 1366, but there are none at OCUK.
 
Well yes I did purchase one but I got to be honest it was a real pain in the **** when ever i put the 4 bolts through it to mount the water block, the water block just would not slide down the bolts smoothly. I mean I was having to really force it down to the point where is was almost bending the bolts just to get the block down on to the cpu so I decided not to use it, whether it was badly machined I dont know but the title did say it fitted a 775 as well so whether the holes just never lined up who knows.

The only reason I mentioned the block on the back was incase this may have caused the issue but like i said before when attaching a normal push button switch I dont appear to have a problem so would this confirm its not a short ? or could it be a dodgy connector that joins the power to the switch with the 24 pin on the board maybe ?

And I would not know where to begin to fit the manual switch on the case without looking stupid :(

Thx for your replies btw guys :)

And also another reason the plate was a no go was adding that on top of that stack cool plate meant it would not fit so that the board was inline with the slots etc it just felt awkward :( hence why I also mentioned about having a hole behine the cpu section but not really an option now as I dont really want to mess with it now its installed :(
 
Last edited:
PakJai said:
No problem :)
I thihnk you maybe looking something like this:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-036-SW&groupid=701&catid=193&subcat=1044
Click to expand...

Yes something 'like' that PakJai. You could use that plate, but that plate is for holding an Swiftech Apogee GTZ block on to the front of the mobo. It is replacement for the 775 hold down plate that normally comes with a GTZ.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-032-SW&groupid=701&catid=193&subcat=1034

The normal backplate only costs £2 or £3, that hold down plate costs £10.34. Would have bling appeal, but who's going to see it behind the mobo.
 
Franco, without a backplate you may be putting the mobo under a lot of stress.

I haven't seen any universal plates that do both 775 and 1366 about, tho tbh I haven't been looking.

Get yourself a proper 1366 plate, it may save your mobo! The Asus R2E ain't cheap.

Besides, if you have a plate fitted you CPU temps will probably improve.
 
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