Rear Camber Adjustment Bolts?

slinxy

slinxy

slinxy

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Hi guys

Needing help please as I can't get hold of anyone at VW that can help as they seem too busy.

I just had my rear suspension arms changed on my 11 plate VW golf (wvwzzz1kz) and the car wheels needs to be realigned, but when I took it to the local realignment place they told me that I needed new bolts as it keeps slipping.

Can someone tell me exacting what those bolt kits are called or even better the part numbers? I'm getting close to the end of this epic saga which I wish I never started..

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I've found this:
and this:

but I'm not sure which one if either are correct.

Thanks in advance...
 
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They're eccentric bolts, sometimes cammed bolts to create the lateral movement needed to adjust the camber and push the wheel out or pull it in.

The issue you get with them is that they can become seized, then if a garage tries to force the bolt against the little tabs on the subframe that the washer is meant to push up against, it bends the tab meaning that you can keep moving the eccentric bolt round and round but it doesn't creat that lateral movement because it has nothing to push up against.

Your subframe appears to be very rusty so I'd see if they have managed to bend those tabs as if they have, it's going to need to be repaired before the camber will adjust.
 
thanks... the guy who tired to true the wheels said that the bolts was just slipping off the tabs and that I need new bolts.. the subframe should be fine as the tabs look universal and not damaged. One of the bolts were seized up, they had to work on one for about an hour with a torch, hammer and all sorts before it would come out but the other came out normally.

I've ordered the lower set now, it should be here in a week and I can get them fitted at the weekend.
 
Gaygle said:
They're eccentric bolts, sometimes cammed bolts to create the lateral movement needed to adjust the camber and push the wheel out or pull it in.

The issue you get with them is that they can become seized, then if a garage tries to force the bolt against the little tabs on the subframe that the washer is meant to push up against, it bends the tab meaning that you can keep moving the eccentric bolt round and round but it doesn't creat that lateral movement because it has nothing to push up against.

Your subframe appears to be very rusty so I'd see if they have managed to bend those tabs as if they have, it's going to need to be repaired before the camber will adjust.
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You also get the joy of the bolt fusing to the inside sleeve of the bushing as well if the factory or last owner hasn't copper greased them... This also loves to happen with lower shock bolts :cry:
 
slinxy said:
One of the bolts were seized up, they had to work on one for about an hour with a torch, hammer and all sorts before it would come out but the other came out normally.
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you mean the garage that changed the arms had issue getting bolt out ? (not the garage doing the adjustment)
wouldn't the original garage have changed the bolts/washer, too, if they were corroded and the bolt slipped in the end washer ?

which (as said) might then suggest the tabs have some wear so are not supporting eccentric bolt. head
 
jpaul said:
you mean the garage that changed the arms had issue getting bolt out ? (not the garage doing the adjustment)
wouldn't the original garage have changed the bolts/washer, too, if they were corroded and the bolt slipped in the end washer ?

which (as said) might then suggest the tabs have some wear so are not supporting eccentric bolt. head
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The garage had an issue getting one of the bolts out, it was my mates garage as no one local to me wanted to touch it on a fixed price. So I took it to my mates, who owns the garage but didn't to work himself.

They wanted to change the bolts, washer and nut but it was getting late in the day and didn't think they could get them from VW (if they had them in stock), on time for me to get back home.
They didn't have a four wheel alignment computer to use at the garage and tried to alight it up as it was orginally set.

Three different mechanics had looked at it.. the one that changed the suspension arms, the one that did it's mot and service and the one that tired to align the wheels.. they are all suggesting it's the bolt.. so fingers crossed..
 
I don't understand how the bolts can be an issue unless they are snapped or the threads are buggered and cannot be torqued up?

The way these bolts work is that they run alongside the ridges on the subframe and that adjusts the camber as the bolt is eccentric.

The only way they can "slip" is if the ridges on the subframe are buggered as the clamping force of the torqued bolt is what will stop the bolt moving under load. You could still theoretically adjust the camber even with buggered ridges by tightening the bolts a little and gentle love taps with a hammer and drift then torque them up once to spec.

Garages can be full of complete plebs anyway. I am merely a "hobby" mechanic with no formal qualifications but even I had to point out to them how to adjust the rear toe on my Saab 9-5 because they tried to fob me off with some story that it was "too" rusty even though I had polybushed the rear trailing arms 6 months prior.
 
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the bolts are on the way, I sent the photos to the seller as VW has still not got back in contact. Hopefully they come this week and it can be done this Saturday...

I think this is the last attempt, if it still pear then it a case of getting another car.
 
adam cool dude said:
The only way they can "slip" is if the ridges on the subframe are buggered as the clamping force of the torqued bolt is what will stop the bolt moving under load. You could still theoretically adjust the camber even with buggered ridges by tightening the bolts a little and gentle love taps with a hammer and drift then torque them up once to spec.
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the rear eccentric washer on the bolt could have corroded so that it doesn't grip the bolt, and has no purchase against the subframe ridges.
 
adam cool dude said:
I don't understand how the bolts can be an issue unless they are snapped or the threads are buggered and cannot be torqued up?

The way these bolts work is that they run alongside the ridges on the subframe and that adjusts the camber as the bolt is eccentric.

The only way they can "slip" is if the ridges on the subframe are buggered as the clamping force of the torqued bolt is what will stop the bolt moving under load. You could still theoretically adjust the camber even with buggered ridges by tightening the bolts a little and gentle love taps with a hammer and drift then torque them up once to spec.

Garages can be full of complete plebs anyway. I am merely a "hobby" mechanic with no formal qualifications but even I had to point out to them how to adjust the rear toe on my Saab 9-5 because they tried to fob me off with some story that it was "too" rusty even though I had polybushed the rear trailing arms 6 months prior.
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Yep garages just cant be arsed/lazy. Luckily my alignment matey will get fire on it if needed :D
 
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jpaul said:
the rear eccentric washer on the bolt could have corroded so that it doesn't grip the bolt, and has no purchase against the subframe ridges.
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It doesn't need to grip the bolt. The clamping force of the bolt once tightened is what keeps it in place. The eccentric washer and ridges are simply there to aid alignment not keep it there. You could still align the wheels if the washer was corroded you would just need to be creative.

Perhaps you are correct and the washer is indeed corroded and is just slipping around the bolt although as each bolt has two cams I would say that is pretty slim. It is more the case of the garage and its "computer says no" attitude which is annoying as they could have quite easily got him in the ballpark with some creative thinking.
 
I'm fairly sure they're going to have bent the tabs on the subframe when trying to get the bolt out. On one of your original pictures I can see what appears to be fresh metal exposed on both of the tabs so reckon they will have forced it and bent the tabs then just denied it was them and fobbed you off with saying that you need new bolts.

It won't be the washer, as the bolts have grooved in them which the washers slide into so that the bolt and the washer turn at the same time. The tabs on the subframe are the weakest link and they'll be the things that have been bent.
 
Car's fixed... I manage to get the bolts on the Friday and put it in the garage yesterday for the bolts to be installed and retracked.

Just need to remember to re-book it in a few weeks for them to recheck the tracking after it's beded in.
 
Hi, any update on your alignment? I just got back from the garage with the same problem. Had all my rear arms replaced and needed an alignment. Garage said every time they adjust the bolts they just slip back and I need new bolts or subframe.
 
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