Recommended Fluid

The Asgard

The Asgard

The Asgard

Soldato
Joined
27 Jan 2003
Posts
6,109
Location
Chesterfield, UK
Coming up for a change on my Blue Fezer One after 2+ years. Still looks like new and I am tempted just to run it through coffee filters papers. I know people here don't like it but I have had zero issues with it. It's given me years of trouble free use. I know a source that sells it but I thought I would ask for an alternative from here.


What's the recommended non conductive fluid here?
 
Personally never had a issue with feser fluids but its down to matter of personal taste. But please do not believe the hype about non conductive fluids its all rubbish. 2 years is a long time for a feser product and yes its about time you changed it out to which ever product you desire.. Once the liquid has been in you system a small amount of time the fluid becomes conductive unless you willing to shell out £70 to £120 per 1 kilo of M3 fluids.
 
Mayhems said:
Personally never had a issue with feser fluids but its down to matter of personal taste. But please do not believe the hype about non conductive fluids its all rubbish. 2 years is a long time for a feser product and yes its about time you changed it out to which ever product you desire.. Once the liquid has been in you system a small amount of time the fluid becomes conductive unless you willing to shell out £70 to £120 per 1 kilo of M3 fluids.
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Thanks for the response. Interesting comment about the conductivity. About a month ago I swapped out my motherboard. The CPU socket was in a slightly different position which caused one of the tubes to be slightly taught. This in turn caused one of the fitting to slightly leak fluid all over the top of my graphics card. Just a little puddle but it was there for a few hours while I was using it. The puddle pretty much covered the gpu. Thing is nothing happened and it was just the fact I glanced over and noticed it that alerted me to the issue. It seemed pretty non conductive to me?
 
R3603 seems to cloud too, xspc clear seems ok, or you want tygon e1000, though it's only available in 3/8 & 1/2.

Been on the hunt for good clear tubing my self lately.
 
Water. Deionised from halfords if you're feeling flash, tap water if not. Works fine.

Even when you pour it over a motherboard and all over the graphics card. Not that I'd do so willingly, but no harm appears to have resulted.
 
OptimaLnrg said:
Neither of those come in my compression size :/ (13/10)
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I'm in the same boat, I use 7/16-5/8, trying to find out if I can force the 3/8 E1000 over the 7/16 compression barb, OD's match up so provided its soft enough with a little heat I think I may be ok.
 
pgi947 said:
R3603 seems to cloud too, xspc clear seems ok, or you want tygon e1000, though it's only available in 3/8 & 1/2.

Been on the hunt for good clear tubing my self lately.
Click to expand...

That's why I went black. I have been impressed with this xspc black. Bends well and doesn't kink.
 
Causing your stuff to blow (or not blow in your case) is more down to dust than any thing else. The conductivity of water just helps. Mayhems produce liquids that are 0.01 to 0.05 us which is the lowest on the market (except for 3m) how ever we don't use the conductivity excuse we just say its the purest.
 
EK Clear still clear as the day l put it in just over a year ago, see no reason for it not to last 2years, them service - new coolant + tubing.
 
I'm using XSPC HighFlex Hose 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD on 1/2" barbs with Mayhems Pastel Red. It has only been a few months but it looks as good now as it did when I built the loop.
 
I have spent a while looking over these. And this is a basic example of the answer i found to the issue; here

Over in the USA it seems most users are using de-ionized water with PTnuke, i haven't found this available yet so will be using a silver kill coil when i change my coolant again. I went for very expensive koolance liquid at first, wish i looked around. You can get 25L of de-ionized water + kill coil for ~£22

Its been tested and found that all coolants become conductive after time. De-ionized water is the same stuff used in water coolants except they add extra stuff into it and put a huge mark-up on the coolant.

I would recommend using coloured tubing, with plain de-ionized water and kill coil. Or use clear, and mayhems dye's seem to be highly recommended and only use small amount, as every coolant dye can and often does cause dis-colouration. And often leaves small grains of the dye powder in the water blocks, as most dyes are watered down from granulated products

Hope this helps,
Jamie
 
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