Recommissioning a car

233

233

233

Soldato
Joined
21 Nov 2004
Posts
13,558
Location
Wishaw
Looking to opt away from the company car scheme at work and after spending the morning looking at my options I’m seriously contemplating using one of my Old Omega Mv6s as a daily and pocketing the cash every month.

Now I would be looking to cover 30-50k a year in what is now a 22yr old car. But my thinking is it’s a modern fuel injected car and with the correct preventative maintenance will be just as reliable as anything else I could choose to run. Thankfully I’m in the position there’s a spare car sitting on the drive any time I need one

It’s bought and paid for so other than ongoing maintenance I’m pocketing a few quid every month. Although the Omega has been off the road for best part of 8 years I would hazard a guess it’s going to cost best part of 2 grand to get it fully recommissioned to a point where I would be happy using it as a daily driver

Fuel is paid for and is calculated on engine capacity so fuel costs are covered despite switching from a 1.5 3 pot to a 3l v6 It theoretically shouldn’t cost me any more to use. (Currently have car provided and claim for mileage which is calculated based on engine capacity)


as I said cars been off the road since 2011 but everything is working as it should but can anyone add to the list below of things I really should be changing after such a long period off the road. There is a few minor bits of corrosion that are being dealt with at the same time

New battery
fuel lines
Brake lines
Belts tensioners
Full service
Gearbox & diff service
New wiper blades
discs and pads front and rear
Poly bush kit all round.
New tyres all round.
 
Fuel and brake hardlines might be fine, just replace them if they look like they are in bad condition.

Are you sure you want to polybush a car which you are doing mega miles in? It will likely increase the NVH significantly!

I'd consider doing the ignition system unless it has already been done at some point. Plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, and coil - Though its probably not essential. I would at least do the plugs and have a spare coil in the glovebox just in case it goes pop.

Fuel filter I would do, and If the fuel pump is easy to get to then change the filter sock on the bottom of it, if not, don't worry too much about it... Might consider doing the pump itself as well, or have another one in the glovebox along with the coil. Those are the two main things that could die of old age and leave you stranded IMO.

Make sure the calipers all work properly. No sticky sliders etc.

Water pump along with the belts and tensioners.
 
Already planning plugs and leads in my full service good shout on the fuel pump

good point on the polys as well although availability of decent quality bushes might be a concern. Not a lot of oem parts still available
even so probably still be more comfortable than the current 1 series. Ruddy thing has rock hard suspension and rubber bands wrapped round 19s first time in my life I’ve felt a factory spec car was overwheeled but it’s stupidly hard
 
If your employer is going to pay you a car allowance (which is subject to tax and NI) instead of providing a company car then they usually have certain requirements. Your car must be no more than X years old for example.
 
Surveyor said:
If your employer is going to pay you a car allowance (which is subject to tax and NI) instead of providing a company car then they usually have certain requirements. Your car must be no more than X years old for example.
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He covered this off in another thread, apparently they aren't fussed.
 
That’s a lot of miles. Are you happy putting this on the omega? It’s a rare car now so are you happy to rack up the miles?


At 2k for getting it road worthy, I’d be looking at a kitted out Mondeo or similar and just rinse and repeat.
 
Surveyor said:
If your employer is going to pay you a car allowance (which is subject to tax and NI) instead of providing a company car then they usually have certain requirements. Your car must be no more than X years old for example.
Click to expand...

Confirmed with our hr team they couldn’t care less as long as I supply proof of insurance for business use they will quite happily let me opt out the company car scheme and take the cash instead without an restrictions which came as a pleasant surprise
 
HoneyBadger said:
That’s a lot of miles. Are you happy putting this on the omega? It’s a rare car now so are you happy to rack up the miles?


At 2k for getting it road worthy, I’d be looking at a kitted out Mondeo or similar and just rinse and repeat.
Click to expand...


I’ve got a whole host of dull and not so dull diesels on the driveway I could use instead which would do the job exceptionally well. And as for mileage it’s been off the road since 2011 I would much rather use it and spend money maintaining it than have it sitting doing nothing it might be worth a few quid in years to come but even if I run it for 4 years and put 200k on it it’s still going to be in better condition than if I leave it sitting gathering dust for another 4 years.
 
Personally I'd love to, in a few years time, see a 400,000 mile Omega V6 at a Cars and Coffee. :p
 
Sounds like an interesting thing to do, but it's worth a try if nothing else.

The fuel is paid for by his company, why does it matter if it makes sense how much the cost is?
 
akaFonzie said:
Sounds like an interesting thing to do, but it's worth a try if nothing else.

The fuel is paid for by his company, why does it matter if it makes sense how much the cost is?
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Because he will be paid per mile for fuel, so pockets more money if he drives a more economical car.

But not everything has to make sense. :)
 
Acme is exactly right. Fuel isn't paid for, he is paid a mileage rate. So he'd get that same mileage rate in a car that's significantly more efficient.
 
233 said:
I’ve got a whole host of dull and not so dull diesels on the driveway I could use instead which would do the job exceptionally well. And as for mileage it’s been off the road since 2011 I would much rather use it and spend money maintaining it than have it sitting doing nothing it might be worth a few quid in years to come but even if I run it for 4 years and put 200k on it it’s still going to be in better condition than if I leave it sitting gathering dust for another 4 years.
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Can we have a picture of your drive please, I'd love to see it :D

I opted out many,many years ago, back in 2004 I think and for me it was the best decision I made. Unlike you though I tend in the main to work from home, so I pocket the allowance and put that in a kitty for the next purchase. I've never considered running an older car but your thread has got me looking :D
 
Acme said:
Because he will be paid per mile for fuel, so pockets more money if he drives a more economical car.But not everything has to make sense. :)
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[TW]Fox said:
Acme is exactly right. Fuel isn't paid for, he is paid a mileage rate. So he'd get that same mileage rate in a car that's significantly more efficient.
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OP also states mileage paid/fuel is done on engine size, so it's likely the amount he would receive for running an Omega would exceed that he would get if he ran the more frugal car.

So, without knowing the exact numbers and differences surely it cannot be stated that the OP would be worse off?
It's probable, but can it be stated definitively?
 
akaFonzie said:
OP also states mileage paid/fuel is done on engine size, so it's likely the amount he would receive for running an Omega would exceed that he would get if he ran the more frugal car.
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Is it? My car has the same size engine and is massively more efficient.

An Omega MV6 is one of the most inefficient normal cars on the road. There are load and loads of cars with an engine size of 2 litre or above that are much much more efficient.
 
[TW]Fox said:
Is it? My car has exactly the same size engine and is massively more efficient.
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But you have a 3L diesel, no? OP has a 1.5L.

I think i get where you're coming from though, he could get a BMW 530 diesel, but he isn't likely going to do that. We are talking about the 3L omega, and his current car...
 
Id say go for it, if the car was running fine before no reason why not keeping in mind the bits you'll replace as above.

My motorcycle is 17 years old, I've not replaced even half of that stuff as listed above, brake lines and all fuel lines are all original etc.
 
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