Removing GU10 bulbs?!

toprock

toprock

toprock

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2 Sep 2012
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I have a mix of 35-50w GU10 halogens all over the house in spotlights, replacing them all over xmas with 4w LEDS which look great so far.

Most fittings the old bulb twists and then i use a blob of blu-tac to help lift it out, i've got several in the hall and landing where I just can't get the bulb out, poor quality light fittings possibly, they twist but don't seem to fully release.

Managed to get a couple out with a pair of marigolds and bluetac to get some leverage, and even tried a little sucker b+q sell but that was useless.

Any tips? :D

PS. much prefer the MR16s in the bathroom, a simple metal ring to pop out and bulb falls down attached to a wire
 
Can you get the entire fitting to come out? Usually just a few metal springs hold them in. Then you can get at the bulb from the other side.
 
Are you sure they are GU10s?

I had the same issue, found that some of the fittings were not GU10s but in fact MR16 (the low voltage equivalent), these pull out directly so twisting would make them harder to remove (I broke one trying to twist it which is when I resorted to removing fixture as BB says), found transformers off to the side thats the first give away.

If they are older and in "hazardous areas" more likely to be MR16

But the locations you list probably not hazardous. I would go with poor quality bulbs and or fittings.

Are you pushing in slightly as you twist? That can help to ensure you are fully turned before you pull out.
 
Fitment is sealed at the back so no way to remove like that :(

They are GU10 as i've changed them in the past over the years, with lots of cursing in the process, one I had to pop out with a screwdriver which broke the bulb and needed a plier twist removal which then worked lol

Seems screwfix sell a stronger suction tool which I may try!
 
What I've also seen suggested is to get a piece of wood and superglue it to the underside of the bulb. That will then give you a much stronger attachment and better grip for rotation and removal.
 
toprock said:
Fitment is sealed at the back so no way to remove like that :(

They are GU10 as i've changed them in the past over the years, with lots of cursing in the process, one I had to pop out with a screwdriver which broke the bulb and needed a plier twist removal which then worked lol

Seems screwfix sell a stronger suction tool which I may try!
Click to expand...

I've had the same as well.
In the end I replaced fittings, but when I was replacing them some the glass was just weaker than the "seal" formed between the bulb and the unit (all the heating / contracting I guess)

I tried the sucker thingies, if you can turn them they should probably help tbh. I found the worst ones wouldnt turn (at all or all the way), if you can turn them fully they should just fall out practically
 
I bought a new build and the living room had 8 x downlights all of which had 50w Halogens fitted.

Some of the terminals had burnt out, so when I came to replace/upgrade them with LEDs the fittings snapped off and I ended up having to get pliers to remove the terminals
 
Not sure Id be very comfortable that the terminals had burnt? Would suggest to me that something isn't quite right although Im not an electrician!
 
Mark M said:
Not sure Id be very comfortable that the terminals had burnt? Would suggest to me that something isn't quite right although Im not an electrician!
Click to expand...
Most everything is garbage these days. Nothing built to last, it's all borderline dangerous.

I've had a memo from the house builder that they have requested all enclosed rooms with extractor fans to be fit with a smoke detector. This is because of a spate of extractor fans igniting and setting themselves alight.

In one instance the fan caught fire and melted through the water pipe, extremely fortunate that it melted a water pipe and put itself out as the timber framed home could have burned down.

So yea, everything is garbage now. Built using the cheapest parts possible to extract the highest profits.
 
Thanks for advice guys, best £3 i've spent in recent years

Video of removal goodness

https://imgur.com/8AXS9L4


https://www.screwfix.com/p/wolfcraft-wfc-5499000-gu10-lamp-removal-tool/6084k


This particular bulb had shrugged off the last 15 minute of faff attempt, out in seconds. Now done the entire house with LEDS, works as well for refitting the bulb. Just hold sucker over bulb with handle at right angle, straighten handle it glues like a Tom Tom sat nav to windscreen and then gives huge leverage to remove...

CkqKAwp.jpg
 
TallPaul1878 said:
Most everything is garbage these days. Nothing built to last, it's all borderline dangerous.

I've had a memo from the house builder that they have requested all enclosed rooms with extractor fans to be fit with a smoke detector. This is because of a spate of extractor fans igniting and setting themselves alight.

In one instance the fan caught fire and melted through the water pipe, extremely fortunate that it melted a water pipe and put itself out as the timber framed home could have burned down.

So yea, everything is garbage now. Built using the cheapest parts possible to extract the highest profits.
Click to expand...


The lights causing me the most bother do indeed appear to be the cheapest overall fitments, bargain basement of the spotlight refit when previous owners did up house :(
 
toprock said:
Thanks for advice guys, best £3 i've spent in recent years

Video of removal goodness

https://imgur.com/8AXS9L4


https://www.screwfix.com/p/wolfcraft-wfc-5499000-gu10-lamp-removal-tool/6084k


This particular bulb had shrugged off the last 15 minute of faff attempt, out in seconds. Now done the entire house with LEDS, works as well for refitting the bulb. Just hold sucker over bulb with handle at right angle, straighten handle it glues like a Tom Tom sat nav to windscreen and then gives huge leverage to remove...

CkqKAwp.jpg
Click to expand...

Thanks for updating, as I have loads of GU10s I will probably pick one of these up as some point.

Mine are pretty much all LED as well, I replaced fittings as well so its a longer job as I am making good the plaster holes which have degraded due to heat, so when previous residents changed bulbs they slowly mullered the ceilings trying to get the bulbs out. My waterproof and fireproof ones (bathrooms) are a nightmare, seriously difficult to assemble and disassemble due to glass and fire gasket thingy!

I still find it amazing how hot the old bulbs must have made the surrounding area, the heat damage to the plaserboard goes quite some distance!
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
Thanks for updating, as I have loads of GU10s I will probably pick one of these up as some point.

Mine are pretty much all LED as well, I replaced fittings as well so its a longer job as I am making good the plaster holes which have degraded due to heat, so when previous residents changed bulbs they slowly mullered the ceilings trying to get the bulbs out. My waterproof and fireproof ones (bathrooms) are a nightmare, seriously difficult to assemble and disassemble due to glass and fire gasket thingy!

I still find it amazing how hot the old bulbs must have made the surrounding area, the heat damage to the plaserboard goes quite some distance!
Click to expand...

You might have bought Dichroic bulbs, they don't always say very clearly on the packet, push all the heat back into the fitting/ceiling, years ago I switched out for aluminium after some crazy hot spotlight holders.

https://www.flameport.com/electric/lamps_and_lighting/dichroic_or_aluminium_downlight_lamp.cs4
 
toprock said:
You might have bought Dichroic bulbs, they don't always say very clearly on the packet, push all the heat back into the fitting/ceiling, years ago I switched out for aluminium after some crazy hot spotlight holders.

https://www.flameport.com/electric/lamps_and_lighting/dichroic_or_aluminium_downlight_lamp.cs4
Click to expand...

No idea to be honest, I started replacing the units and bulbs when I moved in just over 2 years ago.
Some were MR11 as well so assume same potential heat transfer causes.

Didn't realise there was any difference to be honest!
 
That Screwfix removal tool is now on my shopping list. Looks so much better than some of the awful rubber suckers that resemble the end of a kids play arrow.
 
Mercenary Keyboard Warrior said:
No idea to be honest, I started replacing the units and bulbs when I moved in just over 2 years ago.
Some were MR11 as well so assume same potential heat transfer causes.

Didn't realise there was any difference to be honest!
Click to expand...

I've got the MR11 in bathroom and originally bought dichroic, so much heat going into a small flat roof void in the bathroom extension, reckon the fire risk would have been quite high :eek:
 
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