Removing PIR from lighting circuit

Soldato
Soldato
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Hi all

I would like to remove this to make the lights operate with the switch only, without the PIR sensor

z4ETkGt.jpeg


Is it as simple as it seems? Remove the black unit and the PIR, and connect wires together with wagos?

Thanks
 
The black “unit” is a terminal/junction box. Will be a load of terminals inside.

However am obliged to say with electrical stuff if your having to ask id suggest don't touch it.

If however your competent with electrical wiring and especially testing for dead etc. it should be as easy as you say once you identify the wires inside the term box.
 
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The black “unit” is a terminal/junction box. Will be a load of terminals inside.

However am obliged to say with electrical stuff if your having to ask id suggest don't touch it.

If however your competent with electrical wiring and especially testing for dead etc. it should be as easy as you say once you identify the wires inside the term box.
This.

P.S. the termination in that junction box is jank also - there should be no single insulated cable showing, only the grey outer sheafing if it has been done correctly (black/brown wires as pictured).
 
Yeah agree with all above.

It looks like only two wires so in effect the PIR must be in effect inline to the live cable only.

Didn't think you could wire them like that, but obviously it must be working if its controlling the lights.
Be very interesting to see the inside wiring to the black "puck"
 
Given the grey and brown cores visible near the junction box it looks like triple and earth cable so would also have a black core and I can see some near the PIR. That would make sense for a L, N for the PIR itself and a switched live out from it to the light.

The PIR should be labelled so that would make colour code identification easy, but in any event I agree with the comments about not doing this unless you're confident with some more checking.
 
As said, there should be no single-insulated wiring visible. It needs to be re-done properly so that the grey insulation is fully inside the junction box.

That said, what you're asking for is quite simple. You effectively just need to join the supply wires to the light wires, Live to Live, Neutral to Neutral. WITH THE SUPPLY ISOLATED AND PROVEN TO BE DEAD you just need to move the brown wire going to the light from the terminal with the grey wire to the terminal that currently has the brown wire from the PIR going to it. Remove the wiring to the PIR and you're good.

That is really poorly wired up currently, the grey insulation should come all the way in to the middle and then the individual conductors looped to the terminals in the middle, not like how it has been done there where it is next to impossible to leave it correctly insulated.
 
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As said, there should be no single-insulated wiring visible. It needs to be re-done properly so that the grey insulation is fully inside the junction box.

That said, what you're asking for is quite simple. You effectively just need to join the supply wires to the light wires, Live to Live, Neutral to Neutral. WITH THE SUPPLY ISOLATED AND PROVEN TO BE DEAD you just need to move the brown wire going to the light from the terminal with the grey wire to the terminal that currently has the brown wire from the PIR going to it. Remove the wiring to the PIR and you're good.

That is really poorly wired up currently, the grey insulation should come all the way in to the middle and then the individual conductors looped to the terminals in the middle, not like how it has been done there where it is next to impossible to leave it correctly insulated.
Thanks. I thought as much, will ensure to make the insulation correct.

I have another quandary at the other pir however. I've removed the pir wiring, but there appears to be a 4 core wire

JEqAQXt.jpeg


LH junction has a live and a black(?), I'm assuming 4 core was used instead of 3 for further laziness
 
You'd have to look at the other end to know what is going on there, why there's a 4-core like that. You should proceed with lots of caution here and/or put it back to how it was and call a sparky. The state of the other JB is pretty amateur looking but then they've sleeved the earth conductors so who knows.
 
You'd have to look at the other end to know what is going on there, why there's a 4-core like that. You should proceed with lots of caution here and/or put it back to how it was and call a sparky. The state of the other JB is pretty amateur looking but then they've sleeved the earth conductors so who knows.
Ok, I'll leave that one as is
 
Ok, I'll leave that one as is

You could temporarily move the live (brown) wire going to the light to the terminal with the brown and black wires if there's capacity in the terminal for that to be done safely. You'd achieve your aim of not having the PIR but you'll want to get that wiring understood/simplified/made right ASAP.

DOUBLE CHECK that is dead - that black wire could be supplying a live from an unexpected place. For the love of god don't be doing this by relying on a light switch being off or something. Whole lighting circuit off (or whichever breaker in your CU this is on), prove dead, then start.
 
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You could temporarily move the live (brown) wire going to the light to the terminal with the brown and black wires if there's capacity in the terminal for that to be done safely. You'd achieve your aim of not having the PIR but you'll want to get that wiring understood/simplified/made right ASAP.

DOUBLE CHECK that is dead - that black wire could be supplying a live from an unexpected place. For the love of god don't be doing this by relying on a light switch being off or something. Whole lighting circuit off (or whichever breaker in your CU this is on), prove dead, then start.
I've turned the whole house off!
 
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A bit extreme perhaps but better safe than sorry. I'd still test it before I touched it though ;)
 
LH junction has a live and a black(?), I'm assuming 4 core was used instead of 3 for further laziness

For outside PIR controlled lighting some electricians will run triple and earth to give flexibility with PIRs having a permanent live not controlled by the light switch or for linking. It's impossible to say without some tracing but I rarely find electricians using more expensive cable if not required, unless they ran out of 2C+E.
 
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