Repair or replace - what to do?

Haggisman

Haggisman

Haggisman

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Joined
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Birmingham
I think my car is approaching a slow and painful death, not helped by the fact its MOT is in a month.

The car is a 2002 Mazda 6 2.3 petrol Sport, 110k miles.

The list of problems (and estimated repair costs):

EML Light coming on intermittently - Code P0340. From reading around various Mazda forums, the symptoms appear to indicate that the timing chain may have skipped. Estimated cost ~£450 to check and adjust the timing, plus £350 for a new chain kit if one is needed (this is assuming the engine isn't completely ****ed)

Suspension bushes worn - doesn't sound too bad, except that these cars need the whole subframe to be dropped in order to replace them. ~£500 job (including parts). This may or may not be an immediate requirement, depending on the results of the MOT (it's been noisy for a while, but there was no play last year)

Needs 3 new brake calipers - the bleed nipples have completely seized and the bolts appear to have been rounded off. ~£60 each, total ~£180 (I can fit these myself)

Pads and discs all round - ~£100 (I can fit these myself)

Last MOT had an advisory for corrosion on exhaust, so if that needs replacing, about £200

Need a new wheel as I managed to buckle one last week when I got a flat tyre - ~£60

So, a total of ~£1,840 worth of work needed in the next couple of months (about 4 times what the car is worth :p)

On top of that, the bodywork is extremely tatty (thanks to the cloak generator that car appears to deploy when parked, meaning people keep driving into it), and the clearcoat has failed.

Personally, I'm thinking it may be a more sensible option to spend that almost £2k on a Mondeo which is half the age with 2/3 the mileage and in better condition, which will be cheaper to run, cheaper to repair in future and will save me ~£30/month on insurance?

Thoughts?
 
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I'd be inclined to free off the calipers then fire it in for an mot to see what the list is that comes back out. If all it needs is say the calipers , discs and pads then refurb the calipers and change the discs/pads, mot and move it on.

It does sound a bit shagged if I'm honest though.
 
rodenal said:
I'd be inclined to free off the calipers then fire it in for an mot to see what the list is that comes back out. If all it needs is say the calipers , discs and pads then refurb the calipers and change the discs/pads, mot and move it on.

It does sound a bit shagged if I'm honest though.
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The brakes are fine at the moment, but are impossible to bleed - so when it comes time to replace the pads/discs, the calipers will need doing as well. It's still got a few k before that needs doing, but will probably within the next 6 months.

My main concern is the EML and the suspension tbh, the rest is just helping to sway the decision!
 
Lots of what you list could be classed as very worst case / throwing money at nothing.

For example the EML, well if the engine is still running and sounds / runs ok, then the engine isn't ****** is it? Might just be a sensor.

Brakes, just take the cap off the reservoir and push the pistons back in, change the pads and discs, thats provide the caliper still actually work ok.

Corrosion on the exhaust, so? No need to change unless it has a hole.

Etc etc.
 
Firestar_3x said:
Lots of what you list could be classed as very worst case / throwing money at nothing.

For example the EML, well if the engine is still running and sounds / runs ok, then the engine isn't ****** is it? Might just be a sensor.
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The engine runs fine once it's warmed up (unless it's revved over 5k RPM, when it bucks violently and the EML light comes on). When it's cold, anything over 2k RPM causes the bucking & EML, the "safe" RPM increases as the engine warms up.

I've replaced the cam position sensor already (which is the one advised by the fault code), with no effect, so there's definitely something wrong with it :p
 
I had a similar issue with EML and an Astra diesel. Changed every sensor there was until I got fed up and got rid. Sometimes you just have to cut your losses. That was the advice I was given at the time and ignored it. Wish I had listened! Would have saved me £££'s!
 
Haggisman said:
The engine runs fine once it's warmed up (unless it's revved over 5k RPM, when it bucks violently and the EML light comes on). When it's cold, anything over 2k RPM causes the bucking & EML, the "safe" RPM increases as the engine warms up.

I've replaced the cam position sensor already (which is the one advised by the fault code), with no effect, so there's definitely something wrong with it :p
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Thought about changing the crank position sensor?

Do you have problems starting from cold?

Might be worth taking the crank sensor out cleaning the surface of it.
 
Firestar_3x said:
Thought about changing the crank position sensor?

Do you have problems starting from cold?

Might be worth taking the crank sensor out cleaning the surface of it.
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Nope, no starting problems at all, the problem only becomes apparent when the RPM increases above a certain level.

I'll have a look at the crank sensor at the weekend when I have a few hours - it appears to be quite an involved process to replace!
 
If you're after cheap motoring, ditch it and get a Mondeo.

Sounds like with the nature of the intermittent faults, they could wind up being too much of a money-pit, and you're still left with a tatty, old, high mileage car.

(Says a man who just had his Puma welded up to pass its' last MOT. But that's cos I like it and it's fast, for a £600 car!)
 
matt_fsr said:
If you're after cheap motoring, ditch it and get a Mondeo.

Sounds like with the nature of the intermittent faults, they could wind up being too much of a money-pit, and you're still left with a tatty, old, high mileage car.

(Says a man who just had his Puma welded up to pass its' last MOT. But that's cos I like it and it's fast, for a £600 car!)
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This is sort of what I'm thinking - if I'm going to spend ~£2k anyway, it might as well be on something that's going to cost less in the long run!

Just had a look at the crankshaft sensor - it's not loose, the wiring all seems intact. I cleaned it up as best I could in-situ (to take it out involves things like special tools and removing driveshafts....)

No difference :(

Might see how much it'll cost to get the sensor swapped after the MOT (depending on the results!)
 
I know you are having problems with the Mazda but stick with the Japanese. Everyone knows they are the most reliable cars in the world. Just look at any top 10 reliability index list and usually at least 50% will be from Japan with a few other randoms thrown in.

I own a Jazz and that's been the most reliable car in the country for years now, my wife has a Yaris and I also have a 17 year old 200sx and I have never had any problems. Buying a big heavy Mundano might not be the best idea.
 
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Yeah, I would like to stick with Jap - my alternatives choices were either a Civic MK7 (~2003-2005) but it may be a bit small, or an Accord, but there aren't many in my budget (and the insurance is a lot higher!).
 
So... Had the MOT on Saturday.

Passed with just an advisory of corrosion on the exhaust as before :D

EverythingWentBetterThanExpected.jpg :p
 
The mk7 Civic is big and airy inside, extremely roomy, very clever design inside, I would check one out if I was you.

Edit: Just noticed post above, might aswell run the mazzy to the ground first :p
 
I'd suggest running it into the ground now. You could spend the money on fixing it but fixing that EML isn't going to be straight forward and will attract diagnostic fees and mechanics replacing parts until the find the right one, whilst they charge you for their misdiagnosis.

I'd leave the EML if it drives fine below a certain RPM and do what you need to to keep it road legal. I take it you have read the plethora of search results relating to the camshaft position sensor on that car?

Here's one http://www.themazdaforum.com/showth...ft-Position-Sensor-Circuit-Malfunction-Thread
 
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