Replaced heatsink & fan system now does not start up

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Hey, guys, Happy New Year, am new here :). Started to get crashes on my system about 10 days ago when gaming. Eventually worked out the CPU was overheating, on opening the case discovered that the stock Intel CPU fan was trying to start, then eventually stopping leaving it to overheat to as much as 100 degrees C. I ordered a replacement Akasa value copper core heatsink and fan for Intel LGA 1150 and some Akasa TIM wipes. Received them today, ran the PC for few minutes to loose the paste. Successfully removed old heatsink, took out the CPU and used an old credit card to scrape off most of the paste, wiping it onto a paper towel, then wiped with the CPU with the TIM wipes being careful to hold the sides only. Held it for about 5 minutes until it was totally dry, then replaced it back in the socket, locking in place. Then after a bit of confusion as to which direction the black plugs should be pointing when inserting (with arrows not towards the heatsink) pushing and pulling out about three times until it was firm. I then reconnected power, turned on, all fans started up, possibly hard drive made sounds, but no lights on keyboard or mouse or image on monitor. I didn’t at that point remember to check the error codes, but after several restarts, and resettings of CMOS, moving RAM around in slots, I am getting 55 error code which is memory not installed? Any ideas what could be wrong and what I could do next? Thanks!
System specs below

Asus Z87 Pro motherboard
Intel i5 4670K CPU
2 x Corsair 8 GB Vengeance
Corsair CX600M PSU
Asus GEFORCE 1650 Super
 
One thing I would check if you're able to is to see if there is anything on the pins in the CPU socket. If my memory is correct (probably not though) the memory controller for 4th Gen Intel is on the CPU, so if you got dust or something very small in the CPU socket and it is stopping them pins contacting the CPU it could think you dont have memory installed. So you would need to take the cpu out, give a visual inspection to the socket and the underside of the cpu to see if there is any debris in there. If there is something in the socket use some compressed air to give it a blast but if its on the CPU use some isopropanol alcohol on a tissue to clean it.
 
Start with the basics. Take the memory out and reseat it. Check all the power and fan cables are plugged in firmly and that cpu fan cable is connected to the cpu fan connector on your mobo.

If that doesn't work, remove the cpu and check the pins and socket.
 
Thanks guys for both of your advice:). I first removed the CPU again as advised, and shone a torch underneath and on the socket, couldn't see any problems, so put back. So I then started on the RAM, randomly moving both around the sockets, before trying one at a time. Eventually I got one module to work in the slot nearest the CPU (DIMM A1), and it booted up OK. I then tried adding the second module, but in all other slots, it just caused the fans to begin to spin for about 5 seconds, and then it stopped, restarted, possibly it was running an auto MEMTEST as the MEM red light was flashing, but however long I left it, it just continued doing the same. I took the suspect module out, and saw what looked like a small amount of discolouration on some of the pins, see image below, but I am not sure if that was really what was causing the issue. I am kind of nervous to take the working one out and put that one in, if it was actually something to do with the sockets.
I should say, I did replace the paste on my old fan about 2 years ago, and after that I also could not get a boot, I eventually moved the two modules from DIMM A2 + DIMM B2 to DIMM A1 + DIMM A2 and then in worked, but that doesn't work this time. I think I did see some other reports of ASUS RAM sockets sometimes stopping working, and even theories to revive them, but I don't think I tried them as I got them working although not in dual channel.
etxSNJI

https://imgur.com/a/etxSNJI
 
Ram pin discoloration is usually a sign overheating.
Ah, could be. I seem to have had CPU issues with Windows 10 for years - usually but not always Antivirus or some Windows system process clobbering the CPU. Probably could have done with a larger cooler. I do have a fair number of case fans though (4) but airflow probably not the best.

It definitely looks damaged to me. Is it under warranty?
Doubt it, think the build is around 7 years old now. I see the RAM prices have gone through the roof since, lol:rolleyes:.

What kind of CPU temps should I be expecting for an certain wattage? Using Core Temp, with about 80W CPU power I am getting about 80 degrees C temps on most cores. I am wondering if me taking the new cooler off and on again too many times has made the paste too thin, am I going to need to do it again?
 
"BIOS" battery is also suspect inthat old PC.
Do you have multimeter to check its voltage?
 
Ah, could be. I seem to have had CPU issues with Windows 10 for years - usually but not always Antivirus or some Windows system process clobbering the CPU. Probably could have done with a larger cooler. I do have a fair number of case fans though (4) but airflow probably not the best.


Doubt it, think the build is around 7 years old now. I see the RAM prices have gone through the roof since, lol:rolleyes:.
Probablly nothing to do with the cpu and case fans more to do with to much voltage to the memory.
 
Could be but could be the motherboard overvolting the memory.

Your psu is a budget unit How old is your psu ?
Same age as the rest of it, about 7 years. I did have some issues with a AMD gfx card I originally installed in it, that made really loud buzzing noises, I got a refund for that, but I don't know if that did some permanent damage?
 
Same age as the rest of it, about 7 years.
Warranty is 3 years, so deduce designed life time from that.
Strictly speaking it isn't even real ATX PSU, because of bad failure to meet hold up time requirement of ATX specification...
(courtesy of grossly undersized primary capacitor)
 
Warranty is 3 years, so deduce designed life time from that.
Strictly speaking it isn't even real ATX PSU, because of bad failure to meet hold up time requirement of ATX specification...
(courtesy of grossly undersized primary capacitor)

Agreed. It wouldnt hurt to buy a new PSU now as you can keep it for the next upgrade. From your OP I think you should be able to perform the upgrade yourself with a little help from us.... ;)

Here's an example. Much better than that CX600M.

My basket at Overclockers UK:
Total: £78.65 (includes shipping: £8.70)​
 
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