Replacement mouse switches? (Logitech)

Werewolf

Werewolf

Werewolf

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I was wondering if anyone had any experience replacing the micro switches in Logitech mice and where to get them quickly? (obviously not from competitors).

I ask as i'm fed up of every logitech mouse we buy seemingly ending up with dodgy main buttons at around the end of the warranty period (we've got something like 5 in a pile that are double clicking or not registering properly), and as it appears to be possible to replace the buttons I was wondering if anyone had done it, and if so what switches did they use, and where from.

I've had a look at ebay etc but would rather a known good seller, preferably who has them in stock in the UK rather than several weeks wait. Mouse 6 is just starting to go, once again at about 13 months* - I remember when mice that cost nearly £100 a go lasted better, I remember my first Logitech mouse costing ~20 with a free game and lasting about 4 years (insert gif of old man shouting at clouds).

*Under warranty but I don't want to have to buy a new mouse just to use during an RMA (especially as I've got used to the "upright" ones), so if I can get one of the old ones working that would be great.
 
If I had a pile of 5 dodgy mice with just the main buttons playing up I would be looking at doing a transplant of some of the side button microswitches to the main button and end up with maybe 3 fully working mice and a couple to scrap. I would hedge a bet that all the button positions in a mouse will use the same microswitch, I know it does in an MX518, so if you have more than one of the same mouse type then you may be lucky, especially if they are all Logitech. I would hazard a guess that even different mice in the same brand might still use the same type of microswitch.
 
Bubo said:
I would hedge a bet that all the button positions in a mouse will use the same microswitch
Click to expand...
depends on the mouse. G502's certainly don't.

replacing switches is easy enough. if you have some experience with desoldering you should be fine. The stock switches will likely be omrons of some kinds but you'd have to identify them first, or tell us what model the mouse is and somebody will be able to tell you what switches it uses. Alternatively once you know what switches it has, there will be equivalent kailh switchs you could use if you dont fancy putting more omrons in there.
 
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james.miller said:
depends on the mouse. G502's certainly don't.
Click to expand...

That's a shame, though I would still think the left and right buttons at least would use the same switch, so there's still a chance for some good old fashion cannibalisation, since the right buttons is more likely to live longer. I have 2 of the original MX518's and one of the remaster, and the older ones know that they are destined to be consumed like a family of Barn Owl chicks where the big ones end up eating the little ones, if you are familiar with that annual Springwatch drama.
 
Providing you know the model number (omron d2f series is pretty common) farnell, rs, CPC or mouser would probably be your best starting place if you don't want to use eBay.
 
Werewolf said:
I was wondering if anyone had any experience replacing the micro switches in Logitech mice and where to get them quickly?
Click to expand...
You'll want Omron D2F-01 switches, which are rated for "micro loads".

Normal switches are simply operated far outside their electrical parameters for reliable operation:
Voltage and especially current are too low for proper contact "wetting".
Hence any oxidizing/tarnishing and wear of contact surfaces starts to cause issues easily.
Also micro load variant's contact design is different and superior to usual one in standard variants.

(Part 2 with switch tear downs)


Also unless wanting stronger operating force you'll want to add F into end for D2F-01F.
https://omronfs.omron.com/en_US/ecb/products/pdf/en-d2f.pdf


Big electronics component distributors/sellers like Farnell/Mouser/RS might not sell to private persons.

US based Digikey again sells to anyone and has quite good delivery time without any customs hassless. (about five work days to Finland)
Though unless order costs at least £33 you'll have to pay £12 for shipping.
With European shops no longer selling leaded solder to private persons you might also want to grab some ~0.8mm thick no-clean flux solder wire like traditional 60/40...
Or only little bit more expensive 63/37 eutectic alloy, which has the lowest melting point of tin-lead binary alloys and no plastic range.
(complete melting/solidifying at single temperature)

Polish TME would have cheaper postage than Digikey and cheap prices, but you're not going to get leaded solder from them.
 
Soldering I'm pretty good at, I've been doing it on and off for ~30 years :) (and have a couple of decent soldering irons, solder suckers and IIRC braid).

The mice are the Vertical Ergonomic (x3), a 602 and something else, apparently the standard buttons are Omron D2F-01's, I wasn't sure if there was a better/cheaper place to get them than Farnell/CPC etc.
IIRC RS sell quite happily to private individuals, it's just that (from memory) their minimum order price/shipping costs are high.

I've actually still got a couple of rolls of leaded solder in the garage somewhere, probably at the bottom of my old electronics hobby box (along with the PCB's, PCB cutter, marking tools etc).

Cheers for the replies:)
 
Werewolf said:
Soldering I'm pretty good at, I've been doing it on and off for ~30 years
Click to expand...
Good old leaded solder times.
Really hard to make bad joints at least with temperature controlled soldering station...
With proper wattage so that you don't have to spend lots of time swearing at it to warm up.
(10-15 second warming time being just right)


Werewolf said:
I've actually still got a couple of rolls of leaded solder in the garage somewhere
Click to expand...
While nowadays even solder wires have best before dates, unless it's been stored in high temperatures (/+high humidity) it should be perfectly good.
We can leave that best before date etc paranoia for aerospace/military. (+propably medical devices)

Self clinching PCB terminals of -T post fix model code should also work.
 
I won't say I've hoarded that solder, but I've been careful on what I used it on, at least since I was about 14 and amused myself one day making a huge blob out of much of one roll...

When I was a nipper I was quite lucky, one of the neighbours worked for a big communications company IIRC satellite uplinks/downlinks included and he gave me loads of stuff including a good soldering iron, a set of tools (inc pumps) and something like 6 rolls of solder when he got given a new set by his job.

I've bought some switches and the good lead free solder from CPC so hopefully that'll arrive in a few days.

I just find it very frustrating that otherwise perfectly good (if expensive) mice become effectively useless after only a couple of a years due to bad switches, and that's it's made deliberately hard to repair them (screws hidden under the feet etc so you have to replace them as well).
 
Every logitech mouse I have owned over the years has suffered the double click problem after 12 month's use. My current g602 has just started with it also. I did a search and it seems just about every brand of mouse has this issue, even razer mice with their optical switches. So I guess just buy another
 
removing the mouse and replugging in a different socket for 30 seconds fixes it for me mine isnt a mechanical issue seems more usb port/voltage windows 10 related
 
Never have I had a G series mouse using a sealed micro switch, go faulty, and I had my own computer repair shop for 6 years, and never had a problem there.
The only problem I did have, was the plastic rest for the main forefinger to rest on becoming weakened with use, and maybe even curved slightly downwards, or sometimes just the weight of the finger on it, such that the micro switch was not released after depressing quickley. If the micro switch is not allowed to return, it no longer registers a click. The fix was simple, just a small quality foam pad stuck on the underside, positioned so it was sprung back quickly up after depression. (Obviously the pad did not come in contact with the switch itself). If you are really inventive, and play fast shooters, you could actualy use a spring of some sort. Either way, though it is possible in a cheap mouse to have a rubbish micro switch, the ones used in the G series of mice are OK for millions of keystrokes. I used to put this fix on any mouse that came in for repair, a very cheap fix, and never had one come back.
 
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I've had quite a few logitech mouses over the past 10 years and never had one fail tbh. I only changed them cos the thumb rest was worn down so much.
 
Logitech's customer support used to be great at the very least.

If you're literally just outside the warranty window - i'd ping them a message and give them the sob story including a pic of the 5 or so mice you have. You never know.
 
Also looking at possibly replacing the two main switches on a G Pro wireless.
I've owned it a couple of months (Bought used) which has been working flawlessly until now. I noticed it a couple of times recently where firing or ADS it would stop/start or ADS in/out rapidly.
Using a double click test website, When coming to release the mouse buttons I would see several clicks register.

So far I've been advised to try the Kailh GM 4.0 or Huano blue shell white dots as replacements.
 
Bought a replacement top pcb for my G700S due to failing LR buttons.

Logitech warranty is really poor now.
Tried to rma a G203 mouse which is still a month in warranty but the rep emailed they can't help with the headphone, I presume they don't even read the ticket now.

jAI3enc.jpg
 
Logitech is an amazing company for customer service in my experience, the replace things for me in the past, no problem
 
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