Replacing an outside tap

DEL 707

DEL 707

DEL 707

Soldato
Joined
20 Mar 2004
Posts
4,601
I've just replaced a outside tap, because the old one stopped working.

t8VfdMW.png


All working and no leaking, so far.

I need to patch up the holes in the brick left by the old tap and secure the new tap to the wall.

To patch up the holes, I was going to use this stuff.

www.screwfix.com

No Nonsense Mortar Repair Grey 310ml - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Developed to repair damaged masonry between brick and stonework. Also for repairing cracks and damaged stone edges. Can be used to seal joints between tiles, stone and brick slips and pointing around lead flashing. Will adhere without primer even on slightly damp...
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com

But as for securing the tap to the wall, what kind of screws, rawlplugs should I grab?
 
That will work to fill although many will use some silicon and cover the top with some brick dust. Thats tricky as it looks 50/50 between brick and mortar.

Seeing as you already fitted I would buy some concrete screws and just wack them in direct. Unless you plan on hanging things off the tap as you occasionally see people do.

eg https://www.toolstation.com/masonry-torx-frame-fixing-screw/p12879
 
Buy the dark grey version of that product if you go for it.

I’ve used it to fill external holes and it’s fine. I just made the mistake of buying ‘grey’ and finding it’s almost white. I had to go back and buy dark grey and even that’s not what I’d call dark.
 
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As usual, when ever I try DIY, i break more stuff then I fix.

I took the new tap off so I could fill in the old holes, which went o.k.

Put the new tap back on and went to screw it to the wall, but now I have several problems.
The masonary screws I bought are too big to go through the fitting holes, so I need to order a smaller diameter.
The new tap also sits away from the way. What can I use to close the gap between the wall and the tap?

rAK30ZD.jpeg



Unfortunately, that's the least of my concerns, the tape now has a *very* slow leak. I put some PTFE tape around the thread and tightened as hard as I could.
Now the new tap did come with a new nut and what ever the thing next to it is.

weP4Ujr.jpeg


I couldn't replace the nut, think it would require removing the pipe, and that other thing won't actually fit on, it makes the tape sit too high and I can't get to the nut to reach.


Now my biggest concern is my mains stopcock, it has started to to leak. Only thing I've done is turn it off and on.

9IXuWNw.jpeg


I tried wrapping it on tape, because at this point, why the **** not.

Can anyone help?
 
Its an olive, used to join pipe in effect you don't need one what your doing.

Stop **** try opening and closing a few times, as they get gunked up they can end up leaking a bit. You may get lucky.
If it carries on then its either I am afraid replacing that part or a "bodge" using something like https://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-x-leak-sealer-50ml/23614
It depends where the leak is coming from.

The tap will likely just pull to the wall.

Sorry I had assumed you would measure the holes and order screws accordingly. :(
 
Wow I’ve just fitted a new outside tap, went like clockwork, touch wood.

Anyhow my stop **** is a bit old and rubbish so I looked into changing it, if you have a water meter then open up the cover in the road or pavement and to the side there should be a valve that can shut of the water to the house. Didn’t have to actually do this myself.

The bracket to the wall will just tighten to be flush with the wall or very close, shouldn’t cause any problems with the copper pipe.

Presumably you tried turning the stop **** on and off a few times.

If you do have to change the stop **** I would look at putting an isolation valve in the outside tap pipe. I used push fit and bought a pipe cutter. Saved a lot of bother.
 
Looking at that mains stopcock, the incoming feed appears to be plastic pipe?
If you needed to replace, you would probably have to isolate in the road if that is definitely your mains, or try to freeze the lower section whilst you remove and replace the stopcock.
Once the seal starts to go on the mechanism, it's only a matter of time before it needs replacing.
For the outside tap, the olive (next to the nut) forms a seal against the pipe and the nut and it compresses. Usually, you should replace the olive as it will have compressed to fit the old tap insert.
If it leaking around the actual fitting, then I would suggest wrapping some PTFE tape around the threads and then tightening back up.
 
DEL 707 said:
As usual, when ever I try DIY, i break more stuff then I fix.

I took the new tap off so I could fill in the old holes, which went o.k.

Put the new tap back on and went to screw it to the wall, but now I have several problems.
The masonary screws I bought are too big to go through the fitting holes, so I need to order a smaller diameter.
The new tap also sits away from the way. What can I use to close the gap between the wall and the tap?

rAK30ZD.jpeg



Unfortunately, that's the least of my concerns, the tape now has a *very* slow leak. I put some PTFE tape around the thread and tightened as hard as I could.
Now the new tap did come with a new nut and what ever the thing next to it is.

weP4Ujr.jpeg


I couldn't replace the nut, think it would require removing the pipe, and that other thing won't actually fit on, it makes the tape sit too high and I can't get to the nut to reach.


Now my biggest concern is my mains stopcock, it has started to to leak. Only thing I've done is turn it off and on.

9IXuWNw.jpeg


I tried wrapping it on tape, because at this point, why the **** not.

Can anyone help?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, it's a very common problem with any type of valve that the seals shrink over time and get locked in place. The moment you disturb them, then they never seal properly again. The simple answer with the stopcock is to replace it, but of course you need to access the outside valve with an appropriate key.

Re the original problem, place the tap in position and gently drill through the brass holes with a small masonry drill. Remove the tap and enlarge the holes to 6mm. Use a 6mm rawlplug. Pop the tap back on. If there is a gap behind the tap plate and the wall, use some stainless steel washers to fill the gap. Pop in some screws to hold it all in place.

Never do stuff up as tight as you can. It tends to make things worse. If joints leak then replace the joint or use something like Fernox LS-X to seal it (it's basically a silicon glue.) or a more traditional jointing compound.

Old holes in brickwork, I tend to use chemical mortar. Mainly because I have some lying around.
 
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www.screwfix.com

Flomasta Brass Stopcock 15mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Brass, steel and plastic construction. Compression connection. Suitable for water systems only. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com

Did mine last year. Fortunately the stop in the road worked fine - made the job quite easy.

While I was there I added an inline water filter. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232599320911

The amount of crap it captures makes it an easily justifiable addition.
 
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