Replacing chain/derailleur/cassete.

Caporegime
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Due to a number of problems with my bike caused by wear and tear as well as damage I want to replace all the gearing related components, bike will only shift into about 5 gears now and on the top gear the chain often "slips" when there's a lot of force on it, plus the shifter always displays first gear. The stuff was cheap crap in the first place so I'd rather replace it than fix it.

So I need a chain, cassette, derailleur, shifter, is there anything else?

Where do I find out about compatibility of various components for my bike, and are there any decent guides to fitting it all?
 
What system do you have at the moment?
How much are you looking to spend?

Search youtube for drivetrain fitting video guides.

So I need a chain, cassette, derailleur, shifter, is there anything else?
A crankset - front chainrings, bottom bracket and pedal arms.
 
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What system do you have at the moment?
How much are you looking to spend?

Search youtube for drivetrain fitting video guides.


A crankset - front chainrings, bottom bracket and pedal arms.

Below is a picture of the current system, says Shimano but I'm not entirely sure what model it is, there's just a single front chainring with 48 teeth.

Budget is very flexible at the moment as I have no idea how much these things cost lol.

chain.jpg

chain.jpg
 
Damn that chain is rusty. To be honest, correct me if i'm wrong but it kind of looks like that bike might not be worth it. Groupsets can be quite expensive, especially if you need tools as well. To the point where you might be better off just getting a new bike. I'd say either that or replace your chain, cassette, gear cable and clean everything else out, lube it properly and adjust the derailleur to keep that bike going.
 
Might not be the answer you were looking for but i'd agree with PermaBanned here, there comes a time where the bike just isnt worth saving, and from the picture you posted i'd say that time has come, at the very most i'd replace chain and cables(inner and outer), anything beyond that though, you would be better off investing in a new bike entirely, individual components/groupsets are by no means cheap and as said above by the time you factor in tools etc, just wouldn't really make financial sense.
 
The thing is it's an electric bike that retails for £800 and better models are over the £1,000 range.

I do plan on building another electric bike at some point and will probably just transfer the new stuff to that.
 
I have another bike with proper gearing but it just doesn't compare to the electric bike performance even with the bad gearing, takes me less than half the time to get to my destination.
 
The front ring looks ok but I'd change the chain, freewheel too but I don't know how worn it is as it might not need changed. Rear mech would be an upgrade over that one and then a new gear cable will sort out the shifting.

Disconnect the cable and pull it by hand to check if the shifters still has all the clicks too.

http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-m360-acera-sgs-rear-derailleur/
http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-mf-tz21-7-speed-freewheel/ < Might be 6 speed?
http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-hg50-78-speed-chain/
 
Proper gearing would help you out a lot more than an electric motor.

I have another bike with proper gearing but it just doesn't compare to the electric bike performance even with the bad gearing, takes me less than half the time to get to my destination.

I think what he means by "proper gearing" is the correct gear ratios (cog sizes).
 
How do I find out what chain length my bike needs? I've tried the above Shimano 7/8 speed chain but it's definitely too small despite the 7 speed cassette.
 
Your frame is not a normal shape. The rear triangle is longer than normal (probably to give clearance for the motor) and a different shape too - we cant see where that chainstay goes behind the chainwheel but it's not at the right angle to meet up with the bottom bracket so there's something else going on in there.

Not really a problem, you'll either need to count the number of links in your current chain and find somewhere that sells a chain by the link or just buy 2 and join them together.
 
Are you sure it's too short?

put it in the big cog at the back without the mech, find the closest link it could fit and add a link.

It's considerably shorter than my current chain.

Your frame is not a normal shape. The rear triangle is longer than normal (probably to give clearance for the motor) and a different shape too - we cant see where that chainstay goes behind the chainwheel but it's not at the right angle to meet up with the bottom bracket so there's something else going on in there.

Not really a problem, you'll either need to count the number of links in your current chain and find somewhere that sells a chain by the link or just buy 2 and join them together.

Thank you.

Does the thickness or strength of chains vary at all? Anything to watch out for in that regard?
 
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Different numbers of gears use different width chains, so as long as you match what you've already got (6 speed?) It'll be fine.
You'll also need a new cassette and a chain tool, chain whip and cassette tool for changing them over.
 
Yeah I got the 7-speed freewheel Jonny ///M linked me, it seems to be exactly the same design as the original.

Luckily my bike fanatic of a father has every bike tool known to man. :p
 
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Yeah I got the 7-speed freewheel Jonny ///M linked me, it seems to be exactly the same design as the original.

Luckily my bike fanatic of a father has every bike tool known to man. :p

Right as touch said your bike has longer chainstays due to being electric.

You can either get another chain and join them using two of the joining links, get another chain and push the pin through enough to split it and rejoin them together. You can get away with that due to that width of chain not being stamped flat like 9/10 speed.

Orrrrr

Buy a tandem or e bike chain.

http://www.tandems.co.uk/m8b0s16p606/KMC-CHAINS-Tandem-Crossover-Chain-Nickel-Plated-160-Link-KMC-X1
 
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