Replacing Electric Oven with a higher kW electric oven query

DaveyD · 30 May 2013 at 09:16

Hi guys,

I'm planning on replacing my current electric oven, however I'm not sure the best way to check a couple of things.

The oven I have at the moment is around 2500W, and I believe it is hard wired behind itself (have not taken out the oven to check). There is a big red switch on the kitchen wall that turns on the power to the oven and gas hob.

What I want to know is how can I find out if the electric circuit is good enough to take a 3600W (16A rating) oven in its place? Or is this a job for an electrician?

I'm hoping that as I want to replace an electric with electric, I can do the wiring myself.

Nightglow · 30 May 2013 at 09:18

Look at your fuse box, should be a 30amp fuse there for the cooker.

If so, you'll be ok. 32amps x 220volts =7040watts

Firestar_3x · 30 May 2013 at 09:39

Nightglow said:
Look at your fuse box, should be a 30amp fuse there for the cooker.

If so, you'll be ok. 30amps x 220volts =6600watts

Assuming a competent electrician wired it up, which is a dangerous assumption to make!

I'd check the thickness of the cable as well.

tom_e · 30 May 2013 at 09:42

I'd get someone in to take a quick look at it, I can't imagine it would be overly costly and at least then you know it's all good to go or have someone to fall back on if it's not.

Nightglow · 30 May 2013 at 10:39

Firestar_3x said:
Assuming a competent electrician wired it up, which is a dangerous assumption to make!

Even competent electricians can be dangerous.

Should have made myself clearer, it should be wired with 6mm T&E, maybe even 10mm T&E cable.

Danthus · 30 May 2013 at 11:32

Nightglow said:
Even competent electricians can be dangerous.

Should have made myself clearer, it should be wired with 6mm T&E, maybe even 10mm T&E cable.

We have visited a fair few ovens where the terminal blocks have not been tightened enough.

Nightglow · 30 May 2013 at 11:39

OldCoals said:
We have visited a fair few ovens where the terminal blocks have not been tightened enough.

Yes, & I seen several where they didn't even connect the earth, or use cable restraints.

DaveyD · 30 May 2013 at 12:18

It's not completely clear on the fuse box what the ampage/rating is.

The house is ~12 years old, In the fuse box there's a switch of the cooker, and that part number is a Memera 2000 ALB321, which appears to be a 32A rated switch - this sound about right?

The property did have an electrical inspection shortly before we bought the house, so I'll have a look through that report if there's anything else in there of use.

How much would I expect to pay for somebody to do a straight swap on an electric oven?

Nightglow · 30 May 2013 at 12:22

Yes, will be a 32amp fuse now.

DaveyD · 31 May 2013 at 07:28

Had a look through my electrical report, it noted 6mm supply to the oven covered by a 32A fuse - so sounds like the oven will probably fit and work OK.

May get an electrician in to do the swap if I can get it under or around 40 quid.

arknor · 31 May 2013 at 12:46

it will fit and work fine 3600w is pretty low power draw for a dedicated electric cooker circuit.

even a regular13 amp plug socket can handle just over 3000 watts
BTW with most hard wired electrical items the warranty is void if you don't have proof it was installed by a qualified electrician even though UK law only says a competent person

electric ovens tend to be so simple that if they break it's dead easy to fix them , it's nearly always the element that fails and it's only going to be held in place by 2-3 screws and clip on wires.

An electrician will generally change anywhere from £30-60 depending on how much they want the job. if you are paying one make sure he is able to certify it.
something any cowboy won't be able to do there's no point paying someone if you then aren't covered under your warranty especially when it's no harder than wiring a plug so what you really want to be paying for is the little piece of paper that says the work has been certified by a qualified professional