Replacing the garden path (slabs to varied/more interesting slabs)

Soldato
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So the plan is to remove the old path (old inch thick concrete slabs) and replace them with something more interesting. Today, the local place here in Surrey delivered this lovely pack:


This looks overkill but there's an area by the house, then a long path that will be widened, a new stretch of path by the pond and finally the side access to the pond will also be replaced. In total about 18m^2 including +10%. Also I have some tiles for the pond too to replaced the plaster that is staining due to the rusting reinforcement on the corners.

Back breaking lifting those in one by one, but he idea is then to leave them to dry a little, select the slabs and dry fit before getting the bedding sorted.

I'm thinking that the back of these should really be sealed to prevent anything from soaking through (like concrete lime staining if I do decided to secure them down).
 
I'm thinking that the back of these should really be sealed to prevent anything from soaking through (like concrete lime staining if I do decided to secure them down).
We usually paint on a Slurry underneath Indian Sandstone. it helps glue them down and prevent any seep through
You can buy it pre-mixed or make your own using SBR and raw cement.
If you are going to use a jointing compound like Easy-Joint, mix your mortar 6:1, we use a 50/50 mix of sharp/soft sand

Indian sandstone is like a sponge, you may be better sealing the top, as after a few years they look quite dirty, but thats part of their appeal.

Also if possible, widen the path to suit the width of the slabs eg. 900mm or 1200mm, allow for any joints between the slabs
 
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Find a random slab pattern generator.. Don’t get caught up using too many of the smaller ones in one area. It tends to look too “busy”. Try to avoid repeat patterns close to one another, crosses (four corners meeting) or long straight joint lines. Give yourself some play with your joints. Hire a mixer. £30 a week to save your back and spirit from mixing in a barrow.

What do you mean by "if I do decided to secure them down" ? Are you thinking of laying them on sharp sand? These slabs wont be calibrated. Tou will have trouble if you are going to screed an area then drop these down. They will also move over time and ants love sand under slabs. They'll be all over your glass of G&T come the summer.
 
It's "fossil mint" natural sandstone.

We usually paint on a Slurry underneath Indian Sandstone. it helps glue them down and prevent any seep through
You can buy it pre-mixed or make your own using SBR and raw cement.
If you are going to use a jointing compound like Easy-Joint, mix your mortar 6:1, we use a 50/50 mix of sharp/soft sand
Indian sandstone is like a sponge, you may be better sealing the top, as after a few years they look quite dirty, but thats part of their appeal.
Also if possible, widen the path to suit the width of the slabs eg. 900mm or 1200mm, allow for any joints between the slabs

On the pond I had to use a fish safe sealer to stop the staining from below, the rain/pond water and the frost then splitting the slate.

I know enough to know that it needs sealing and a slurry seems the best option. What do people use for the path paving top seal without changing the colours much? (the G4 sealant isn't hardy enough for a footpath and has a strong yellow tint - turning blue slate a greener colour).

The slabs are 3/4 of the thickness of the old slabs so by idea of dry seating them is probably not such a good idea. I'll do it properly, get some MOT down and build a compressed smooth sand layer before putting in the smoother mix for the slates to sit in. I was also going to ask about the joints given they are rough finished.

Find a random slab pattern generator.. Don’t get caught up using too many of the smaller ones in one area. It tends to look too “busy”. Try to avoid repeat patterns close to one another, crosses (four corners meeting) or long straight joint lines. Give yourself some play with your joints. Hire a mixer. £30 a week to save your back and spirit from mixing in a barrow.

What do you mean by "if I do decided to secure them down" ? Are you thinking of laying them on sharp sand? These slabs wont be calibrated. Tou will have trouble if you are going to screed an area then drop these down. They will also move over time and ants love sand under slabs. They'll be all over your glass of G&T come the summer.

I looked for a webpage style generator, but none exist. I may see if I can find a simple Matlab one. I use Mac and most are windows binaries without source code.
I may simply write my own (I can see that a simple random distribution weighting map could be used then iterate with T nodes on a 300x300mm grid, it could also keep a bell shaped gaussian distribution between the junctions by weighting) then release that to GitHub so it's free for anyone.

I was considering initially (before they arrived yesterday) if they need fully securing from the outset however given the underside it looks like they would skate so making the bedding properly seems the only way.

Is that rainbow sandstone or something like it? Pretty soft and porous stone but looks good.

Yes it's natural sandstone so it's very likely to soak through - it arrived with damp through so before I could seal the top it would need to dry out.

Only issue with sealing is most I've seen make some form of colour change. They will change over time anyway and the local environment sees quite a bit of black exhaust soot across the white car so they will need sealing if they're not going to turn too soot-dirty over time. A summer/spring wash each year and a reseal should keep that at bay.
 
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I was considering initially (before they arrived yesterday) if they need fully securing from the outset however given the underside it looks like they would skate so making the bedding properly seems the only way.
Definitely needs bedding down, you need a sub base properly compacted and then a mortar layer of sufficient thickness, SBR slurry back of slabs and wait until summer to seal to ensure you get a run of dry weather IMO!
 
I forgot to say - I will be widening the path to be 900mm wide, also a 600mm in front of the pond + French drain, plus to the side of the pond a 600mm wide path will get put in - probably with a drain too. Lots of work then before May BH.
 
I put in a sandstone many years ago, and went with a textured finished. Have to say it wasn't installed well.
The sandstone with a texture stains easily and very hard to keep clean. Then a slightly uneven surface is a trip hazard.
If I was doing it again I would get a concrete stab or even one with granite through it.
 
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I asked an Instagram landscaper about base, and he reckoned concrete on ground is ok (no MOT)....
 
I looked for a webpage style generator, but none exist. I may see if I can find a simple Matlab one. I use Mac and most are windows binaries without source code.
I may simply write my own (I can see that a simple random distribution weighting map could be used then iterate with T nodes on a 300x300mm grid, it could also keep a bell shaped gaussian distribution between the junctions by weighting) then release that to GitHub so it's free for anyone.

I was considering initially (before they arrived yesterday) if they need fully securing from the outset however given the underside it looks like they would skate so making the bedding properly seems the only way.
I use an app on windows called Patio Tile-o-matic, it can be buggy at times but if laying a large area can come in very handy.

It works on 300 x 300 squares, you can increase or decrease the default size of the whole area, you can even add footpaths to it.

You put in the amount of each slab you have and can set the length of joins etc.. (eg. no more than 3 slabs long)

it will work out some patterns for you and you just pick the one that looks best for you.

Then i just do a screen grab and print it off
 
I asked an Instagram landscaper about base, and he reckoned concrete on ground is ok (no MOT)....
Around where i am, some areas have very sandy soil and we will use a concrete base instead of MOT.
The main thing is don't have the concrete too strong, it needs to be porous, no stronger than 7:1
We will mix it damp, then rake it out and run a whacker plate over it
 
Started work this weekend.. I've picked the easy spot - this is partly where the already compacted layer sits from the original path:

ehpemQh.jpg


The backs have been slurried with a 50+mm layer of cement (5 sharp: 1 builder: 1 cement).
 
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