Reservoir with no air gap causing problems?

muffles

muffles

muffles

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I have the Aquacomputer Aquabox Professional: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-023-AQ&groupid=962&catid=2133&subcat=

However due to it's design it is currently filled to the brim in my system (maybe a couple of small small air bubbles visible).

I understood a small air gap was desirable for changes in the environment that cause things to expand/contract? Also, that the reservoir is used to catch air whilst bleeding the system - i.e. coolant passes through and the reservoir has an area higher than the coolant entry/exit, where air gathers.

Unfortunately on this reservoir, using the designated inlet (the top port, there's a pic on the link), there is no air gap possible - it's right at the top, near enough. Also, I think this might be one reason I found it more difficult to bleed, since when stopped, I think air was able to go backwards up the inlet, since the inlet was the highest point (although am not sure on the physics there, perhaps it doesn't).

Any thoughts on how best this can be solved (and if it needs to be?) - thinking of either:
1. Use one of the other ports as an inlet, and block off that top port
2. Use an extra tube res or similar internally to catch air

I really want the bay res as a minimum as I want to be able to see coolant level from the front.
 
muffles said:
1. Use one of the other ports as an inlet, and block off that top port - the top port is connected to internal channels to help bleed and stop turbulance keep using the 'in' port
2. Use an extra tube res or similar internally to catch air - only use one res (or none) - two will kill your flowrate and acheive nothing

I really want the bay res as a minimum as I want to be able to see coolant level from the front.
Click to expand...

Either run the loop with the res @ 50-80% full
Or add a fill line going into the top of the res (if you can access it) and full fill it.

I run my loop with the res half(ish) full durring bleeding
Then after a day fully fill it with the fill line half full
This way it acts as a sealed loop with no loss in flow rate.
 
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Right now I seem to have managed to get it almost completely full (I have no fill line, I just filled from the top of the res).

So it sounds like you do have an air gap, but it's in the fill line? I think if I run the res half full all the time, I might get problems with air in my loop, as the inlet to the res won't be submerged.

I have to drain and re-fill in the next couple of weeks (moving abroad and don't want to transport it with fluid in) - is it worth changing it to use the other (lower) port then? It'll be really easy as the tubing doesn't need replacing, it's the correct length already.
 
The water level must be above the outlet ports. (this is true for all res's)
In your res it's designed so the the water level should be around 70-85% full.
It's not designed to be fully filled.

If you want it to be fully filled - add a barb/short length of tube to form a fill port.
Only raise it higher than the inlet port AFTER it's been fully bleed.

Yes their is an air pocket in my fill line - but this isn't part of the active water circuit (the water in the fill line isn't being pumped)
 
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if you use both the bottom ports at the back, it should make the system easier to bleed as air will collect in the top of the res. It's a bit difficult to tell from the pictures on the site, but it appears theres no down tube inside the res, so I presume the inlet being at the top is breaking the surface of the liquid and reintroducing bubbles into the loop?

I usually to bleed a system I use a secondary psu and switch on for a few seconds, wait, rinse and repeat, until most of the air is removed, then it takes a few days as my ek hf cpu block atomises the air into the liquid, but just normal running takes care of that eventually.
 
The aquabox doesnt use a down tube - it has a inverted arch channel to keep the bubbles at the top of the res.
That's why I said it's NOT designed to be full filled - as you lose the arches ability to split the water from the bubbles if submerged.

Imho the site photos show this quiet well (third pic especially) - you just need to know what to look for - or follow the water path, and think why did they do that.
 
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Ah that's interesting, so it is designed like that? I've watched the water flow before, I'm a bit unsure how it would prevent air bubbles going back up the inlet though.

In any case I realised my inlet tube is going upwards to the res, so the air won't naturally flow (down it). I'll try using a little less fluid when I refill it.

P.s. I had thought the arch channels were just to keep the screen free of condensation...lol
 
Idealy with this res you want the water to flow up towards the inlet.
Otherwise as you say when it's switched off the air goes back up the tube.

Might be worth re-routing the pipework when you move abroad.
Pic of the inside of the case would help if you want some advice / alturnatives
 
Two 80mm deep rads seams overkill - but the loop is neat :)
You could shorten the loop slightly with pump>240>Bridge>360>block>res>pump
but that would mean rotating the block so the in is on the left. Not really worth it effort.

Personally I always stick with the single largest rad that will fit, makes tube runs and air flow easier imho. Pump>Bridge>360>block>Res>pump
Air in front/bottom - out top

Also it's quite hard with two rads to make them both intake or both exhaust.
How are your setup?
 
I just did both cos I can :) I always see people say to get as much rad space in as you can, up front :)

I previously had it set up as you are saying actually, the problem is actually on both the bridge and the block it needs reversing: http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18433315

I rejigged that into what you see now as I thought it was neater, haha.

Right now the 240 is intake and the 360 exhaust, there's also an additional fan intake on the bottom and an additional fan exhaust on the back. I'm thinking about changing that additional exhaust fan to an intake, to supply cooler air to the 360, but not set on it (just going to try it and see - waiting on delivery of a filter for it as I don't want to turn it around without one).

On that last point you were making, are you saying it is better to have the rads both set up as intake, or both as exhaust?
 
Yes.
Other wise the intake air is heated and that heater air is passed throught the exhaust rad so is much less efficient.

The rear and bottom fans could help to short circuit the airpaths if set up right but not massively.
 
On the subject of needing an air bubble in a res for expansion/contraction, it is not stricly speaking 100% necessary as the rad channels will usually expand/contract instead in response to pressure changes. They are quite flexible as you will find out of you blow into one with the other port blocked. However, if you can get an air bubble into the res then it is probably better, but certainly not essential.
 
Oh, I had thought that the air temperature would not be too bad for the second rad, but I guess if the heat has gone anywhere it'll be inside the case!

Someone had previously suggested making the top rad an intake - actually on that note I bought extra fan filters in case I wanted to do that :)

That would leave only the rear as an exhaust, unless I reverse the bottom too...?

I'm surprised at how flexible the rad channels are :O
 
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