Retro build: Pentium 200 MMX

ketma

ketma

ketma

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Rather than just buy an old rig already built I decided to build a retro PC from scratch and wanted this to be a DOS *only* machine, maybe running Win98 at some point in the future but for now just DOS.

I wanted it to be original to the era without using modern adapters/convertors, compact flash etc, period correct parts from around 1995 - 1997.

Deciding how retro it is could be up for debate but in the end I went for a Pentium 200 MMX.

I managed to find a motherboard that had both AT & ATX support and this was great as I could use this in a cheapo ATX case (after all there was every chance it might be DoA) and I can always move this to a more fancy case and use a better PSU.

Everything I tried to source was 'new' old stock or in excellent condition. The spec is:

cpu: Pentium 200 MMX
motherboard: Micronics Twister AT (based on the Intel TX chipset)
cooler: socket 7 copper HSF (totally over the top) (new)
80pin IDE cables (new)
floppy cable (new)
video: Matrox Millennium (4Mb)
IDE HDD (recertified)
IDE CD ROM/RW
Case/PSU (new)
RAM: SDRAM 64Mb (new)
3.5in Floppy drive
ISA sound card (SB Pro/OPL3) (new)
ps2 mouse (new)
ps2 keyboard (new)
Wavetable daughterboard S2 (MPU-401) (new, but not arrived yet)
Dell 17in LCD screen (correct aspect ratio) (new)
Floppy disks (new)

The version of MSDOS I am using is not 6.22 but v7.1 from Win98 as this is fully functional and provides Fdisk support for larger HDD's rather than the measly 8GB partitions with DOS v6.22. I used the menu created by philscomputerlab which is perfect for the various start-up options.

The BIOS unfortunately has the Int13 limitation that affects it detecting the true size of the HDD and I will rectify this by acquiring a PCI controller that support INT 13h Extensions.

I've not been able to locate any BIOS updates as Micronics was acquired by Diamond and support faded rapidly.

The motherboard has an issue whereas it will boot with 64Mb but fail to restart unless the CMOS is cleared, overcame this by removing one stick reducing the total ram to a massive 32Mb.

So far everything works and the few games I've tried have worked without issue.

As I had no boot disks in the attic (in fact I had no disks at all) the biggest headache was trying to move things off my current rig to floppy disk using an external USB FDD which I purchased specifically for this job - well it was utter rubbish and was just prone to writing disks incorrectly from an image, it would just randomly error and I really don't think it was compatible with Win10, in the end I got it sort of working by creating a VM with WinXP that seemed to work slightly better with the USB FDD but it wasn't perfect.

Once I managed to get the retro PC up and running with access to a CD drive this was easy in transferring stuff over.

Here's a couple of pics I took, just showing the build and the Speedtest program I remember from years ago.

BbZcjLc.jpg


ATDaeUG.jpg
 
Nice build

period correct parts from around 1995 - 1997...

"I can always move this to a more fancy case and use a better PSU."

There was no such thing as fancy cases and good PSUs in the mid 90s :D

I've got a late 90s build and recently added a USB 2 PCI card. Makes transferring files to / from it much easier. Also ordered a Soundblaster 16 (CT2230) The SB16 was almost as expensive as the entire machine!
Mine was on the cheap incase I get bored and need to resell. Total cost including monitor, speakers, mouse and keybaord is £250 so far
 
Guest2 said:
period correct parts from around 1995 - 1997...
Click to expand...

I like seeing any retro builds, but that was my takeaway too. Either it's meant to be period correct, or it's not.

And if some parts aren't going to be period correct (e.g. Nasty 500W PSU, Startech Copper cooler, aftermarket PCI IDE controller etc), then I don't know why you would limit yourself to old IDE hard drives, rather than just using a Compact flash, or modern SSD with adapter
 
Armageus said:
I like seeing any retro builds, but that was my takeaway too. Either it's meant to be period correct, or it's not.

And if some parts aren't going to be period correct (e.g. Nasty 500W PSU, Startech Copper cooler, aftermarket PCI IDE controller etc), then I don't know why you would limit yourself to old IDE hard drives, rather than just using a Compact flash, or modern SSD with adapter
Click to expand...
Exactly. Same with the monitor really.
I ordered a Gateway 2000 Vivitron CRT but UPS retards broke it somehow. I'm using a Dell 17" LCD now for the time being which was a whole £10 delivered from a guy on Facebook
Especially like the 200W PSU and 2" CPU cooler :D

cEuitRkh.jpg.png

xWcRhiOh.jpg.png

120GB WD drive has just arrived but i'm going to wait for the ISA soundcard and RAM to arrive, then reinstall OS fresh then connect ISA soundcard, then Soundblaster Live.
If not then its going to be a mess of Ensoniq DOS drivers, SB Live DOS drivers and ISA drivers. I can see a painful IRQ / DMA conflict mess if I don't reinstall and check the ISA card is working by itself first
 
Armageus said:
I like seeing any retro builds, but that was my takeaway too. Either it's meant to be period correct, or it's not.

And if some parts aren't going to be period correct (e.g. Nasty 500W PSU, Startech Copper cooler, aftermarket PCI IDE controller etc), then I don't know why you would limit yourself to old IDE hard drives, rather than just using a Compact flash, or modern SSD with adapter
Click to expand...

The board has the option to use AT and ATX psu's, I'd rather use a nasty new ATX 500w psu than a 20+ year old AT supply, the psu came with the case and I wasn't going to spend loads on a high end psu if the parts were dead. Same with the case, you can't get new AT cases anywhere, why would I use an old case when the board supports new.

The copper cooler is a socket 7 unit, perfectly acceptable, so you suggest I source a cooler from 1995 where the fan could fail at any point?

The IDE controller I have sourced is period correct, its a Promise card from the dates mentioned.

From your taking I should have got a CRT screen too.


I built this for a bit of fun....sheesh some people.
 
ketma said:
The board has the option to use AT and ATX psu's, I'd rather use a nasty new ATX 500w psu than a 20+ year old AT supply, the psu came with the case and I wasn't going to spend loads on a high end psu if the parts were dead. Same with the case, you can't get new AT cases anywhere, why would I use an old case when the board supports new.

The copper cooler is a socket 7 unit, perfectly acceptable, so you suggest I source a cooler from 1995 where the fan could fail at any point?

The IDE controller I have sourced is period correct, its a Promise card from the dates mentioned.

From your taking I should have got a CRT screen too.


I built this for a bit of fun....sheesh some people.
Click to expand...

PSU and fans can fail, that's all part of "original to the era without using modern adapters/convertors" :)
I remember in the 90s PSUs always failed, may aswell keep it original to the times :p

Personally for my build I wanted it to be from original era with Soundblaster 16 soundcard, 3dfx and Windows 98 without faffing around with CF / SD card readers.
I think I made a good compromise with a 5 port USB 2 PCI card.
My PSU and CPU 'HSF' (if you can even call it that) I may change. 200W isnt exactly a lot of a PSU but expect it was enough back in ~1998. It has the original sound and smell at least!

Same for me though, bit of a fun lockdown project. If all else fails, ive not spent much on it.

How much was the ISA soundcard and model is it if you don't mind me asking? I had to get mine from Hungary as they are few and far between. I highly expect it was salvaged from throw away machines over a decade ago
 
ketma said:
The board has the option to use AT and ATX psu's, I'd rather use a nasty new ATX 500w psu than a 20+ year old AT supply
Click to expand...
You were the one who stated "period correct parts" - most PCs of the era used 200-350Watt PSUs.
There are plenty of cheap Delta/FSP/Liteon etc OEM spec ATX psus available in an appropriate wattage.

ketma said:
The copper cooler is a socket 7 unit, perfectly acceptable, so you suggest I source a cooler from 1995 where the fan could fail at any point?
Click to expand...
Aside from the fact complete copper coolers were rare in 1995 (even during the later Skt370/SktA most were still Aluminium), it's Startech branded! (which clearly wouldn't have been an option in 1995).
The better option would have been a period correct cooler, and just replace the fan (either with an unbranded fan, or from a manufacture who did exist e.g. Coolermaster etc)

ketma said:
I built this for a bit of fun....sheesh some people.
Click to expand...
As long as you are having fun and enjoying it, then that's all that matters :)
 
Yep, that's all it was a bit of fun during lockdown...

No, I don't mind at all - the sound card cost £26, it was new but brand no idea, it uses the OPTi chipset (82C924) and has OPL3 - looks to be a complete copy, its Soundblaster Pro compatible. I also have an ESS card on route from Russia, but got this in the event it never makes it.

The wavetable card I have ordered is modern though just to have general midi that sounds decent, no way I'm going the MT-32 route, and some of the more decent sound cards cost as much as this entire build !

Overall its cost peanuts to put it together.
 
ketma said:
Yep, that's all it was a bit of fun during lockdown...

No, I don't mind at all - the sound card cost £26, it was new but brand no idea, it uses the OPTi chipset (82C924) and has OPL3 - looks to be a complete copy, its Soundblaster Pro compatible. I also have an ESS card on route from Russia, but got this in the event it never makes it.

The wavetable card I have ordered is modern though just to have general midi that sounds decent, no way I'm going the MT-32 route, and some of the more decent sound cards cost as much as this entire build !

Overall its cost peanuts to put it together.
Click to expand...
Are right, I thought you meant you had an OPL Soundblaster. Yes, the soundcard I bought came to £72 inc VAT and delivery.

Breakdown (all inc delivery)

P3 550MHz base built (case, MB, CPU, PSU, Voodoo 3 2000, 20GB hdd, multiple other cards) - 89
Monitor - 10
Keyboard and mice - 13
Speakers - 15
Soundblaster live! (CT4760) - 13.60
WD 120GB HDD - 13
Single floppy disk - 1.59
5 port USB 2 card - 9
Soundblaster 16 (CT2230) - 72
256MB Crucial RAM - 6
256MB Crucial RAM - 3.90
256MB Crucial RAM - 7
 
Yes, but you can't use all 8 at once, various combinations are allowed.

1 isa/pci slot is shared.

It doesn't have AGP and i'm not bothered, it runs all the DOS games fine.
 
Guest2 said:
I've got a late 90s build and recently added a USB 2 PCI card. Makes transferring files to / from it much easier.
Click to expand...
I would have though some kind of network card would be far better.
I remember setting up a network stack in DOS VM just for fun (not!) a few years ago, but I also more distant memories of getting an actual DOS box talking to Win95 or Win98.
Actually the biggest problem might be getting any modern network to talk to anything so out of date.
 
KompuKare said:
I would have though some kind of network card would be far better.
I remember setting up a network stack in DOS VM just for fun (not!) a few years ago, but I also more distant memories of getting an actual DOS box talking to Win95 or Win98.
Actually the biggest problem might be getting any modern network to talk to anything so out of date.
Click to expand...
Idealy I want to keep it off networks all together as has no updates or virus protection. USB 2.0 is certainly fast enough to transfer ISO images and small programs to/from my main W10 machine
 
phatboy said:
Same here, I managed to pick up s RIVA128 4mb PCI card. Does really well :)
Click to expand...
I've jsut had a search and it seems there a quite a few good PCI cards which will hold well playing Windows 9X games upto about 2002

Geforce 6800GT PCI
Geforce GTX-680 PCI version
3dfx Voodoo3 2000 PCI
Voodoo Rush
 
Guest2 said:
Idealy I want to keep it off networks all together as has no updates or virus protection. USB 2.0 is certainly fast enough to transfer ISO images and small programs to/from my main W10 machine
Click to expand...
Fair enough.
I was more thinking of using a separate network not routed to the internet. But mounting ISO images and messing around with legacy drivers is probably all I would want to it for, and USB is fine for that.
 
Guest2 said:
I've jsut had a search and it seems there a quite a few good PCI cards which will hold well playing Windows 9X games upto about 2002

Geforce 6800GT PCI
Geforce GTX-680 PCI version
3dfx Voodoo3 2000 PCI
Voodoo Rush
Click to expand...

Would love an era voodoo to put in it, but they are just too much for my pockets sadly.....one day maybe
 
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