Road Cycling

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Dumbass question here and a bit "out there":

One of my friends is getting rid of his Scott CR1 Elite frameset including forks and BB for a very cheap price. Is there any reason at all that this frame could not be used to build a fixed gear bike?

Before you say it, no, I don't think anybody has ever converted a Scott CR1 into a fixie! Haha! I'm purely at the concept stage here and if then concept is garbage, then so be it!
Depends on the length of the dropouts. If they are very short vertical ones (which I think they are) then you'll probably run into problems because you will struggle to get tension on the chain even if you use a half-link chain. Pretty much all bikes have a 'magic ratio' where the chain will fit, but to get tension you need to be able to move the wheel back or forth. There is an eccentric bottom bracket you can use, but it all starts to get unnecessarily expensive when you start resorting to things like this. At this point it's usually better to just use a frame with longer dropouts - hence old steel is quite popular.

If you just want singlespeed (not fixed gear) then it's not such a problem because you can fit a chain tensioner on the derailleur mount. With straight SS you don't need a tensioned chain like you do with a fixed gear and close enough is usually good enough.
 
Depends on the length of the dropouts. If they are very short vertical ones (which I think they are) then you'll probably run into problems because you will struggle to get tension on the chain even if you use a half-link chain. Pretty much all bikes have a 'magic ratio' where the chain will fit, but to get tension you need to be able to move the wheel back or forth. There is an eccentric bottom bracket you can use, but it all starts to get unnecessarily expensive when you start resorting to things like this. At this point it's usually better to just use a frame with longer dropouts - hence old steel is quite popular.

If you just want singlespeed (not fixed gear) then it's not such a problem because you can fit a chain tensioner on the derailleur mount. With straight SS you don't need a tensioned chain like you do with a fixed gear and close enough is usually good enough.

Ahhh...

That's a A+++ answer.

I think I'll ditch the whole idea then.
 
Dumbass question here and a bit "out there":

One of my friends is getting rid of his Scott CR1 Elite frameset including forks and BB for a very cheap price. Is there any reason at all that this frame could not be used to build a fixed gear bike?

Before you say it, no, I don't think anybody has ever converted a Scott CR1 into a fixie! Haha! I'm purely at the concept stage here and if then concept is garbage, then so be it!

As has been said, it probably wouldn't work, but in the interests of curiosity... How much are they asking for?

Mind you, given that you're considerably taller than me, I can't imagine it would be any good for me.

And I haven't got any money anyway :p
 
As has been said, it probably wouldn't work, but in the interests of curiosity... How much are they asking for?

Mind you, given that you're considerably taller than me, I can't imagine it would be any good for me.

And I haven't got any money anyway :p

£300, which isn't low enough to tempt me to at least "have a go". Its a 54cm.
 
grudas/whoever:

Ordered those recommended pads from eBay Tuesday lunctime and they just arrived now! Speedy delivery and great value! :D

Can see they do yellows and browns too, many others tried different colours? I went salmon colour after my Koolstops (which I bought for wet weather braking).

can't fault them still after 2500 miles of using them, never had any issues stopping in wet/dry/grit/muck etc.
 
I think this discussion is sadly all academic anyway, as I'm sure the gf won't let me get ANOTHER bike! ;)

What, you've only got 2?

How can one man live with only 2 bikes... :p I've 3 already (winter, summer, single speed) and I've got plans for at least another one (titanium tourer), and to replace the summer aluminium bike with a carbon one, or possibly keep it and buy a carbon one anyway...
 
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can't fault them still after 2500 miles of using them, never had any issues stopping in wet/dry/grit/muck etc.

Excellent news! Fairly sure my Koolstop Salmons are going to last me until the Autumn anyway so we'll see then! ;)

Jonny or any others with a wide cycling maintenance experience - I'm going to be using an SRAM 11-speed chain on my Shimano 105 (2015, 5800?) groupset but I also want to replace my jockey wheels at some point as 1 of them doesn't spin as freely as I feel it should (think the bearing is crappy). How interchangable are jockey wheels between groupsets? Would I be safe using 11 speed SRAM (X1) jockey wheels with my SRAM X1 chain on my Shimano 105 5800 groupset?

I can't find Shimano branded 5800 in stock anywhere, lots of 5700 (10 speed) which I guess are not compatible? Ideally I want ceramic bearings which the standard 105 don't seem to have? FSA and Tacx seem the best for cost/reliability but 11 speed shimano offerings are never in stock when I look. Thoughts/advice?

Can I also buy a Shimano 5800 'Inner Cage Plate' from somewhere, slightly crossthreaded mine and have a feeling I'll have a problem with it next time I remove my jockey wheels! :(
 
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but I also want to replace my jockey wheels at some point as 1 of them doesn't spin as freely as I feel it should (think the bearing is crappy). How interchangable are jockey wheels between groupsets? Would I be safe using 11 speed SRAM (X1) jockey wheels with my SRAM X1 chain on my Shimano 105 5800 groupset?


Seems a bit weird. When you say it doesn't spin, do you mean when the chain is off and you're just turning it by hand? Or it's when the chain is on and you're trying to pedal it's affecting the movement of the chain?

If it's the former, that's pretty normal. As long as it's not affecting you when actually riding the bike, you're pretty much just wasting your money changing them.
 
you can buy a whole new deraileur for about 22-30 quid

never seen the point of jockey wheel replacements when they cost about half that anyway and you can probably recover the rest from selling the old deraileur
 
you can buy a whole new deraileur for about 22-30 quid

never seen the point of jockey wheel replacements when they cost about half that anyway and you can probably recover the rest from selling the old deraileur

Also v true. Especially if it's at the lower end of the shimano range. Tiagra rear deraileur is dirt cheap online and does the job.

But tbh, i'm not convinced there's actually much of a problem there in the first place.
 
I am on a 6:44 start.

I put when registering a sub 4:30 time but hope to manage it sub 4 hours all going well and the weather stays kind.
 
Seems a bit weird. When you say it doesn't spin, do you mean when the chain is off and you're just turning it by hand? Or it's when the chain is on and you're trying to pedal it's affecting the movement of the chain?

If it's the former, that's pretty normal. As long as it's not affecting you when actually riding the bike, you're pretty much just wasting your money changing them.

you can buy a whole new deraileur for about 22-30 quid

never seen the point of jockey wheel replacements when they cost about half that anyway and you can probably recover the rest from selling the old deraileur

Also v true. Especially if it's at the lower end of the shimano range. Tiagra rear deraileur is dirt cheap online and does the job.

But tbh, i'm not convinced there's actually much of a problem there in the first place.

All good points, I could be finding a problem where there isn't one...

To be honest it spins freely enough with the chain there, spinning it by hand with no chain it'll only do 2-3 turns before it stops, the lower one will spin for 20+ revolutions. The 'bad' one feels rougher when spinning by hand and makes more noise. When taking apart the inner wheel surface groove on the wheel (the side seal fits into) is noticeably 'rough' whereas the other looks and feels smooth. After ~800 miles I'd imagine any roughness left over from manufacturing to have worn away? The edges of the side-seal/plate bit are not worn so the 'damage' isn't caused by that, it must've been there from new or caused by some road grit/grime getting in the groove.

My drivechain does make more noise than I expected it to (more than my cheap & old Sora/Claris bike). I'm changing my chainrings this weekend (from alu to steel) to try and resolve a click/creak. These noises may come from my BB (not ruling it out) but it's obviously cheaper and easier to change jockey wheels (if I could get hold of the damn things!) :rolleyes:

Anyone want to buy me an early birthday present? ;)
 
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