Road Cycling

Yeah, UK "gravel" is a joke in a lot of places. Its often a mix of roads, massively overgrown paths that are 1.5' wide and completely overgrown with weeds and nettles and then sections of grotty XC stuff. Thats why I sold my gravel bike. I did one of the glorious gravel 100k events and even that was something like 40% roads.

I love the idea of gravel but we just don't have the trails for it in much of the UK.
I'm enjoying it for now. I don't manage to get that much riding time in so I was in a rut with riding the same old roads around home which is why I started stitching together sections of road with bridleways and byways to mix things up. I do get a bit of a buzz riding sections that are slightly technical at pace. I even get a sadistic pleasure of riding on terrain that should really be tackled with an MTB!

The downside is the unfortunate inevitability that an occasional off bike excursion may occur. I'm already recovering nicely, wrist is much better and I can do a lot more with my left hand today. I'll soon be back on it with a target of ticking off a couple of squares on squadrats that have been out of reach until I started looking into whether I could legally ride some tracks that run through them.

I almost signed up to a gravel event this year but my fitness being off and some other commitments meant I put it off. Wish I hadn't now as the shop behind the company that runs all of these events has gone bust. The events themselves are run by a separate CIC but I'm not sure if that will live on without the shop paying the wages.

Longer term I'm considering swapping out the road bike for a nice gravel bike. I just prefer the geometry, ability to go off piste on a whim and wider rubber is far less sketchy on rubbish country lanes anyway. Problem is that the vast majority are 1x. While I've never tried it I currently like having a 2x setup, especially in flat Norfolk where the big chainring is ideal for road and the small is used for off road. Even with an 8 speed groupset I've got a good range of close gears for both scenarios.
 
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I'm enjoying it for now. I don't manage to get that much riding time in so I was in a rut with riding the same old roads around home which is why I started stitching together sections of road with bridleways and byways to mix things up. I do get a bit of a buzz riding sections that are slightly technical at pace. I even get a sadistic pleasure of riding on terrain that should really be tackled with an MTB!

Yeah, theres always fun to be had being underbiked for the conditions, something that I think is lost on a lot of people doing MTB. When you see people on enduro ebikes riding green XC trails you just think, why??

I used to live in Norwich years ago. I cycled a bit but it was entirely on a fixed gear bike which I loved. I used to cycle out to Reepham for work during the better weather months. Lovely riding along the disused railway.

I think the gravel scene is massively location dependent in the UK. Seems like around me theres limited stuff but in some places its not too bad. I just couldn't justify keeping a bike that saw barely any use but was worth a chunk of money. As you say, its cool to be able to explore the local area without worrying about the conditions.
 
As much as I don't like all the niche categories the cycling industry invites, I think all-road sums what I want / ride. Fast(ish) on decent tarmac, copes with typical UK country lanes which can be okay or utterly ruined and able to bash down a smooth trail to explore somewhere new or link up some tarmac.

One of the Bank Holiday weekends in May I was out on a loop and detoured down a bridle path to bag a VeloViewer explorer tile. Nothing too lairy on 28mm slicks but a bit more grip would be nice.



David Arthur did this tyre video the other week which I thought was spot on for my riding. The new Synapse takes something like 48mm tyres front and 42mm rear, so a 40mm semi-slick could be spot on for that.

 
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Still not that convinced you need 165 cranks...! Especially when they cost £581 as going 165 on them if you don't you've compromised the resell value being that short...

On Sunday I went out on the ebike for ~1.75hrs and I was using ~150W assist after first few minutes and maximum 250W on the two 260+ feet hills I climbed
How many e-bike motors can give a 'known' power assist!? I thought most as they where speed based just multiplied the rider input when speed was some measure below a set speed - to give assist on climbs the most...

If it makes you feel better my lowest gear is 1.2.

I can't wait for a 1:1. Going to feel like I'm flying up the hills.... well ok maybe not flying but it should be noticeably different
Love my 34 x 34! Do think I'd be ok on 36 x 34 as the few times I use it, I'm generally seated and could be stood. But that itself is nice, having a 'bail out' with tired legs while everyone else is needing to stand just to grind their 36 x 28t. Can never discount the ability to get up 'anything' if you can sit the vast majority of it and just winch yourself up at 50-60rpm.

Got my Chris Hall GPX framed.
Looks amazing, as others mentioned use the top left for the race number. Really like the dots!

Essex Police think this is fine and no further action... :/ ... https://iili.io/CCsYMjn.jpg
I'd defo question that as clearly within 1.5m - I've certainly had warning letters send for less serious!

I contacted Shokz and they simply said. No problem, have some new ones!
Amazing to hear of quality service. Have you bought directly from them before? How often are their prices similar to others places in deals? Came close to a pair a while ago...

Anyone else sign up to the Dragon Devil ride 2027 today?
Did you ride it? Know a bunch who did. Really need to cross it off myself - have been telling myself for years but also now that I need to do itbefore I'm 50 (46 in a few weeks) to give myself a bit of an ultimatum!

Did a local Sportive/challenge ride instead. Clubmate who I was going to meet there dropped out so was in no rush to get there for the start where the fast guys would be (8am-9.15am start bracket, but a 45 min drive from home). Ended up pretty much solo as from the start straight up a hard climb with cold legs I was reeling other riders in (who'd started 5-10 mins before) even before the top. But had seen a couple of names on the 'sign on' sheet I recognised... Legs where good - so the chase was on! Focussed on riding by feel and maintaining speed on the rolling/flat parts, alongside gassing the climbs. Must have passed 100+ riders throughout the ride, some of them multiple times as I made sure I enjoyed the food stops! No croissants this year but some amazing chelsea buns... Must have had at least 5 of them through the day! :cry:

Got to the lunch stop and came across a clubmate who'd started at 8am so knew I was doing ok. He was just leaving as I got there, so used him as my carrot. Caught him very soon afterwards on the beast of a climb (biggest of the day) and soon got to the final food stop. Waited around chatting to others and he didn't arrive so figured he didn't stop so the chase was back on again! Fantastic day out and my legs going well, was quite gutted I had things to drop off at the in-laws so couldn't ride home to make it a longer ride/day. :cool:

I really want to give a sportive a go. I did book one last year but at the eleventh hour my friend cancelled on it so we never went. That and I'm too much of a wimp to do one solo and I wouldn't want to go with people I don't know through fear of slowing them down :cry:
Lets do it mate! Find something near/north of you and if it fits into family schedule I'll meet you there! I'm always up for a day out and am always riding with slower riders than me (club socials) so not a problem - you'll be faster than some of them anyway! ;)

You should be able to claim for all that from the drivers insurance I imagine. I think they will likely tell you to take your bike to a shop and get it professionally assessed as to the total repair costs and to actually understand what should be replaced when this sort of thing happens.
This. Hope you're still feeling ok and the injuries have continued healing without too much discomfort!

Hope you got the drivers insurance details from them - then hope you called the insurers. Highly likely they will need to report that to their customer to verify before you get much back and able to put in a claim. You're a '3rd party' but their client should report any accident to them anyway even if they don't need damage to be repaired. Looking at how hard you got thrown, I would expect they have damage to their vehicle anyway. You will need the bike 'assessed' by a Shop or someone who can give a written report about it (use your LBS and ask for a 'letterheaded' document so it can be considered official).

Really glad you're feeling well enough to type out what happened and have lots of 'evidence'. That is massive - even with mine and Military Police being my primary witnesses, as at the time I hadn't got their 'names and addresses' the drivers insurance tried to wriggle out of my claim - it as their client took 3 days to report it - even with a smashed windscreen! I'd even phoned the police during that time asking if there was anything else I could do - like report the number plate in case the guy was driving around still, but even then as I had no 'proof' so they couldn't. Eventually heard back from the guys insurance that they'd followed it up with him and he'd admitted fault. Things still pretty awkward and seemed to take ages to sort, I had injuries but as I was able to work didn't claim for anything related to that (which would take longer and doctors notes/reports etc) I just loaded the damage claim for equipment a little instead. Claimed for a pair of Oakleys & pair of Rapha shorts (broke some Foakleys & ripped the leg on an old already damaged pair instead).

My equipment and claim even after submitting a list of items and lots of receipts to the guys insurers (which I'd done a few years previously for another knock) this time had to go through some government central portal, which was a faff. Thankfully the guy at the insurers was really helpful and very familiar with it (he turned really helpful once I'd said a few times I didn't want to pursue a personal injury claim). He even made sure I put in 2 days of 'work costs' for attending hospital appointments.

You have to claim for your lost time and travel if nothing else mate - but poor driving like that you should be claiming for everything you can. My other half used to work in insurance and said at the time of mine, likely without an injury claim (which think how many thousands of pounds that would be), likely the insurance company would pay out quickly to get it cleared and likely agree anything under some arbitury figure like 10k or 15k to cover anything, just to clear the claim and absolve themselves of any ongoing injury if I decided I wanted to do (much harder with a closed case)

Hopefully you know someone that has a cracked SL8 frame you can borrow for the day!
I've got a black SL7 with a cracked chainstay & wonkey fork still in my garage... Played with the idea to get it repaired and use as a turbo bike and still might.
 
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Drivers are just ******* awful and its just accepted that you mitigate their bad driving to avoid constant accidents.
Yup, pretty much why riding with a camera for over 12 years I'm now reporting more of them than ever before. It was harder to do so early days, took longer and just a ballache of hassle to go down to the station to get an incident number before following up with police to find out they didn't think serious enough to prosecute. The advent of OpSNAP & Nextbase and the online submission thing was big for me 6-7 years ago (pre-covid). It made it much easier to report, but as I didn't really get many 'convictions' (didn't even hear back from the majority) I stopped doing all but the worst.

Roll on a couple of years and someone local mentioned reporting something I hadn't even considered bad and getting a result. The advent of 'driving awareness' courses here means Police actively reviewing things and feeding back, I reported more and got results. These days I report things while out on the road (commuting) I'm fairly immune to... Which I understand and don't see as directly dangerous to me, are still close/bad enough they are against the highway code and other riders would not be immune to. I do it so Police will issue advisory letters and driving awareness courses. I consider that worthwhile and my way of raising awareness - in the hope it improves driving standards on a wider scale, for other cyclists as well as myself!

My vain hope is that police at some point will be able to issue fines for it. To cover their 'costs' and time, without needing enough evidence to convict as a driving offence in court to issue points. That is what we're missing - driver clocking up advisory letters and driving awareness courses is one thing. But also to be convicted of a £50-100 fine for 'bad but not that dangerous' driving, will start to eat into those who are consistently poor at it. Also that way a lot of police 'strain' for all the footage now hitting them to process will help to be covered, we'd hopefully see more forces doing as well as West-Mercia now seem to be.
 
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How many e-bike motors can give a 'known' power assist!? I thought most as they where speed based just multiplied the rider input when speed was some measure below a set speed - to give assist on climbs the most...
No idea, sorry.

My gravel ebike has a Mahle X35+, in the app I can customise the three motor assist levels (30-100W; 30-175W; 30-250W) or use one of three presets.

The optimum cadence on X35 for assist is approx 75-85rpm, not that I know for sure what my cadence is when riding, because I've not fitted a cadence meter. Keep wondering about transferring my 4iiii power meter off my road bike, which would give me cadence as well. I'm certainly aware that my cadence is slower these days from Zwift, pre- long covid I would often spin at 95-110rpm, now it's more like 80-90 indoors.

It's only a 40Nm rear hub motor, so quite low by modern eMTB standards (80-120Nm seems to be getting very common), which means that the max gradient I can get anywhere near the motor cutoff of ~15.5mph is much lower given I'm not likely to be contributing much more than ~250W of my own power up a 5-15min hill on a good day (so just under 4.5W/Kg for me and bike).

The transition from motor assist up to ~15.5mph is tapered, but I've not been able to find any details of what speed the taper begins and how the motor drops its assit as I get closer to the cutoff speed.

I switched out the rear 40mm Marathon Supreme and butyl tube for a 45mm Caracal Race (which measures closer to 48mm on the ~21mm internal rim width wheel) and Vittoria MTB 1.7-2.3" latex tube a few months ago. The reduced rolling resistance is very obvious, I'm reaching the cutoff speed quicker and more often and the ride is super comfy on that wide tyre at ~42PSI on tarmac.
 
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Yep, i'm always a bit torn between the time and effort it takes to report people vs the likelihood of actual enforcement. The last one I reported basically said "thanks, you won't hear from us no matter what happens".

I'm pretty adamant at this point that the only thing that will stop bad driving around cyclists is if they are losing licenses and getting points regularly when they do dangerous things around us. It certainly won't be through education. What education will persuade someone that its a bad idea to close pass small children on the back of a bike? That sort of person is just a damaged human who has no empathy for anyone but themselves and shouldn't be anywhere near a weapon/car.
 
As much as I don't like all the niche categories the cycling industry invites, I think all-road sums what I want / ride. Fast(ish) on decent tarmac, copes with typical UK country lanes which can be okay or utterly ruined and able to bash down a smooth trail to explore somewhere new or link up some tarmac.

One of the Bank Holiday weekends in May I was out on a loop and detoured down a bridle path to bag a VeloViewer explorer tile. Nothing too lairy on 28mm slicks but a bit more grip would be nice.
"All road" is a good catch all term really because as has been pointed out many times the "gravel" that gravel bikes are primarily aimed at simply doesn't exist here in the UK in any great abundance.

It is quite nice to get out on the road bike which does feel a little bit snappier but I never really feel that compromised on the gravel bike running 40mm Schwalbe G-One All Round. Even on the tarmac, junctions on country lanes are scattered with small stones and stuff. I just feel so much more confident going into that turn with a much bigger contact patch.
 
"All road" is a good catch all term really because as has been pointed out many times the "gravel" that gravel bikes are primarily aimed at simply doesn't exist here in the UK in any great abundance.

It is quite nice to get out on the road bike which does feel a little bit snappier but I never really feel that compromised on the gravel bike running 40mm Schwalbe G-One All Round. Even on the tarmac, junctions on country lanes are scattered with small stones and stuff. I just feel so much more confident going into that turn with a much bigger contact patch.
Totally agree - certainly for me, my 'early' Gravel bike was very much an all-road setup even back in 2015. It wouldn't have coped with 'Muddy UK Gravel' (30/32mm semi-slicks & road gearing!) but as an endurance road bike with loads of clearance it has been perfect. Would be nice to shed 1-2kg, but realistically with carbon wheels and take the mudguards off it is under 9kg.

Yep, i'm always a bit torn between the time and effort it takes to report people vs the likelihood of actual enforcement. The last one I reported basically said "thanks, you won't hear from us no matter what happens".
That's pretty much where I got to post-covid. The portal was ok, took 10 mins to fill one in, then get a fairly canned 'thanks for your submission keep your recording for 6 months, we'll be in contact' and they never did. The couple I felt bad enough about I followed up and they did confirm they did something, but it seemed to be a faff & even more time to follow everything up so I stopped doing it.

These days, automated response, often actual person responding once they'd seen the footage and what the outcome was, usually same day. A few times I've asked a week later - get apologies for not letting me know, but they had issued a letter/'conviction' (driving awareness/assume fine when driver can't/doesn't attend).

I totally agree about the penalties getting harsher has to happen for change to be forced. But also realistically I don't see that happening anytime soon - so I'm just making sure I'm pushing stuff to them to action, surely that then looks better to central government - more submissions - more 'convictions' against drivers. In my mind it is highlighting the problem, maybe drives some internal change. Ideally someone government side looks and thinks 'drivers are not getting better, for all this police work how can we get money back in to cover it' and then fines become a thing.
 
Amazing to hear of quality service. Have you bought directly from them before? How often are their prices similar to others places in deals? Came close to a pair a while ago...
I didn't buy from them, I bought from John Lewis. They just wanted proof of purchase from an authorised seller (or something like that)
 
On the hunt for a more endurance focused bike for the dragon.

Local shop selling a specialised sl6 expert tarmac, full sram red group set with hydraulic discs, mavic carbon rims, weighs just over 7kg. 2019 frame, tubeless setup, 30mm gp5000s so it’s comfy.

Test ride felt nice, just needs a shorter stem, any reason to not buy? £900 - seems a deal to me for what was a stacked bike when released, probably £7/8k in today’s money…
 
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Thats a great price honestly. The cheapest you can pick up a tarmac SL7/8 even base tier would be somewhere around £3k I reckon and that would be far heavier and with crappy wheels etc. Even second hand, £900 doesn't get you a huge amount of bike these days.

Personally I would say that if you like it, go for it.
 
I feel like there were 3x as many cyclists out on the road today. Think every Dad out there asked for a cycle with their mates as a father's days present!


second attempt at sanding down and cleaning my front brake pad and rotor has made a significant improvement, still a bit squeaky at certain pressures though.
 
Thats a great price honestly. The cheapest you can pick up a tarmac SL7/8 even base tier would be somewhere around £3k I reckon and that would be far heavier and with crappy wheels etc. Even second hand, £900 doesn't get you a huge amount of bike these days.

Personally I would say that if you like it, go for it.
Yeah that was my initial thinking too, can’t get a lot for your money these days so even though it’s older, I can’t see anything close that’ll get me FACT 10r carbon, sram red groupset with hydraulic discs brakes and a sub 8kg bike.

Specialized price the sl8 (there are obviously differences and improvements) 10r frameset at £3500.

Think I shall be paying a visit to the shop on Tuesday to collect it :)

Only thing I will be looking to change are the cranks, I can’t go back to 172.5mm :p
 
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After my little spill earlier in the week, I have to shop for a new helmet? Was wearing a POC Omni Air Spin which has done its job but I might get something that has a higher Virginia Tech rating. It only got 2 stars. What's everyone else rocking at the moment?
 
After my little spill earlier in the week, I have to shop for a new helmet? Was wearing a POC Omni Air Spin which has done its job but I might get something that has a higher Virginia Tech rating. It only got 2 stars. What's everyone else rocking at the moment?
If you need something to tide you over, visit your local Lidl and try their helmets for size, bike gear in the middle isle.
 
After my little spill earlier in the week, I have to shop for a new helmet? Was wearing a POC Omni Air Spin which has done its job but I might get something that has a higher Virginia Tech rating. It only got 2 stars. What's everyone else rocking at the moment?

After seeing your audition video for a new career as a stuntman I've just bought a Van Rysel RCR Mips. It hasn't been submitted for testing by Virginia Tech but gets good safety reviews and is lighter and more aerodynamic than the POC Omni Air Spin.
 
After seeing your audition video for a new career as a stuntman I've just bought a Van Rysel RCR Mips. It hasn't been submitted for testing by Virginia Tech but gets good safety reviews and is lighter and more aerodynamic than the POC Omni Air Spin.

I've got a van rysel too with mips and it's a good comfy helmet.
Popped to my nearest Decathlon and picked up on of there. Fits comfortably and should do the trick. If I get showered in compensation then maybe I'll get better but as it stands I'll stick with good value. Thanks both.
 
On the hunt for a more endurance focused bike for the dragon.

Local shop selling a specialised sl6 expert tarmac, full sram red group set with hydraulic discs, mavic carbon rims, weighs just over 7kg. 2019 frame, tubeless setup, 30mm gp5000s so it’s comfy.

Test ride felt nice, just needs a shorter stem, any reason to not buy? £900 - seems a deal to me for what was a stacked bike when released, probably £7/8k in today’s money…
Good bike for the money & setup but the SL7 was a big step up. They redesigned the frame around disc brakes, so it is lighter and stiffer with them, than the SL6 which just had some extra carbon thrown on a rim brake frame ('Disc module'). What wheels does it have? If it is on original wheels and being an Expert there's a chance it'll have C38's they where some of the earlier wider internal wheelsets (21mm) with a DT hub so are great, but I do think some of them might have Praxis alloy wheels which are garbage... Watch out for SCS too. Not a deal breaker, but around the era when Specialized used it (2012-2016) so need to be aware of it. I've coped fine (basically a wheel hub width between 135 & 142 mm) but being an SL6 if it doesn't have SCS your wheels will be 135mm wide and might even be a QR rather than a TA.

sanding down and cleaning my front brake pad and rotor has made a significant improvement, still a bit squeaky at certain pressures though.
It's good to do occasionally but I generally find when it's happening regularly usually an alignment of the caliper and checking fluid levels. The little 'fish things' you can get are great to get, basically fit over the rotor with caliper loose, wriggle and hold lever, then tighten bolts back up. Takes 5 mins and less faffing trying to judge gap by 'eye' (my eyesight was terrible for it)

After my little spill earlier in the week, I have to shop for a new helmet? Was wearing a POC Omni Air Spin which has done its job but I might get something that has a higher Virginia Tech rating. It only got 2 stars. What's everyone else rocking at the moment?
At least 1 Van Rysel in my local club and guy likes it. Someone else just got the new Kask lid and that looks so similar to the Evade! I'm in Specialized the last few years (Align II before that Evade & Echelon) but also a Giro Agilis which was nice. I'm a 61cm large egg shaped noggin, so have to use brands which go above that, Kask I found their XL which sized upto that was just a horrible fit - too round. Going 'American' has helped - bigger sizing means a better fit and certainly the Align II for the cost is a very good helmet.
 
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