Road Cycling

Lethal` said:
I'm not bothering with the Velothon this year either. Last year was good but the sheer number of people on the narrow climbs got a bit annoying. (Yes I could start earlier but I could just go over on my own accord and do the climbs with mild vehicle traffic). A workmate was trying to convince me again but not too fond of the near £200 overall cost (with driving there, accommodation, food etc).
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Very similar opinions to mine, for the Velothon I'd have to drive ~55 miles to Cardiff and pay parking. Probably have to set off really early to get there or pay for a B&B. Then I'm also paying for the pleasure of riding back towards 'home' to The Tumble (which is only 25 miles from home) and back to Cardiff. RideBirmingham was the same, drive ~60 miles to Birmingham, park, B&B/early start etc, to then ride towards 'home' (ride comes out as far as Bromyard which is only 15 miles from Hereford) before going back. I much prefer the kinda route of the Herio where it's more circular and routes/roads I'd otherwise not travel/ride from here.
SDK^ said:
Roady : power meters
If I was looking to buy a PM now it would be the Powertap P1 pedals.
They seem to be the best dual sided solution - cheap and with the least number of issues.
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'Cheap' @ £900? You're being paid too much! That's more than a months wages for me (once my mortgage is paid, never mind the other bills)! ;)

I wouldn't say they don't come with their own set of issues and that's partly what turned me off them. I get the dual sided argument but much of that is aimed at the crankarm based PWM's which are not (currently) dual sided. Many/most of the Spindle based systems are a total power measurement from both legs and then calculate a rough split to determine L/R. Basically takes any imbalance out of the equation. Previously I'd toyed with the idea of doing a couple of sessions on a gym wattbike to determine my L/R split if going the 1 sided route. Going spindle removes any of that.

For me the only big plus of pedal based is moving them between bikes (as Ben notes), I've had a serious think the last few weeks and the chances of me needing to swap them between bikes over the next couple of years is extremely low:
  • I don't foresee going on a 'cycling holiday' where I'd just be taking pedals.
  • I'll either be jumping on a hire bike for a day or two of a couple of hours riding (where I'd just be enjoying the scenery and not concerned with setting some awesome segment times).
  • I'd be doing a 'serious' cycling holiday with hiring a bike for it (and paying extra for a PWM or for them to fit my cranks).
  • I can't see me not taking 'my' bike on a 'cycling' holiday! ;)
The bike I'm riding 'every day' is less than 6 months old and I'm not going to be changing it for the next 4-5 years (minimum). The only chances of me changing my bike are for a more aero/TT bike and I'd just build up from a frame anyway as I would have much of the componentry. I'd just make sure the frame/BB was compatible with BB30 (which is almost universally available for all frames). Changing a BB is fairly inexpensive in comparison to a PWM!
BennyC said:
A few hundred pound premium, if affordable - which it is in this instance - even if not necessary now, is a no brainer.
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This 'few hundred' is ~£300. Basically a £900 comparison to £600. It's 50% more at this end of the market.

We all know how much of a bargain hunter and cheapskate I am! I can much better justify £600 than £900. And let's not forget, PWM's are going on in leaps and bounds.

I won't be surprised if many of the PWM's currently available are 'outdated' in 2-3 years time and we want to replace them. Probably for more accurate, robust and cheaper ones! Most of the current will be worth 50% of their current values (it's a maturing technology still relatively over priced for the mass market) and I'd be much more likely to replace a £600 PWM when it's worth £2-300 than a £900 PWM now worth £4-500. Hell, I'd probably just keep it for the 'winter' bike and buy a new one for the summer bike (as I'd then be riding more than 1-2 bikes)! ;)
 
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Roady said:
This 'few hundred' is ~£300. Basically a £900 comparison to £600. It's 50% more at this end of the market.
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You said you were prepared to spend up to £1k, granted a limit not a target.

You wouldn't need to worry about the cost of batteries with AAA's ;) and have fun packing your cranks to take abroad :D

We all know how much of a bargain hunter and cheapskate I am! I can much better justify £600 than £900. And let's not forget, PWM's are going on in leaps and bounds.

I won't be surprised if many of the PWM's currently available are 'outdated' in 2-3 years time and we want to replace them. Probably for more accurate, robust and cheaper ones! Most of the current will be worth 50% of their current values (it's a maturing technology still relatively over priced for the mass market) and I'd be much more likely to replace a £600 PWM when it's worth £2-300 than a £900 PWM now worth £4-500.
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The same can be said for any relatively 'new' technology. The longer you wait the more affordable it will become and equally the less depreciation you'll suffer on re-sale.

Ultimately you either need to make your damn mind up or stop winding us all up in the interim :p Pick one, enjoy it and put something else on your wish list :cool:
 
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Setting up B screw on campag is weird, doesn't seem to do anything until you shift down then back up. Need to put it up on the stand tomorrow and start afresh, taken 1 link out as chain is a bit long.
 
I went with Vector 2s - one sided for a couple of reasons.

- coach I visited did some testing and my pedal L/R is 50%/50% under load so nothing to be gained by having dual sided power meter.
- also my pedaling action on the downstroke and up"pull" is smooth and accurate so again nothing that a dual sided meter would help me with.
- I had budgeted £1k for upgrades this year (£400 if the missus asks!!!) - so got the vector for £450 and just purchased a set of Fulcrum Quattro Carbon full carbon 40mm clinchers for £500.

I was also in the "wait and see camp" - but then thought - what's the point, get it whilst I want it and no point in worrying what's round the corner!!:D:D
 
Never owned any Rapha clothing until now. Couldn't resist popping into the Rapha store in London during a quick visit.

Picked up the pro team bib shorts (with black logo as the coloured ones looked a bit garish) and the pro team aero jersey. Both for £175. Not bad when you consider the shorts alone are £190!

Come on Spring!
 
Nearly finished this at work, still to fit the Dura ace chain and that should do it.


Felt IA10 so the cheaper frame without the front brake fairing but a proper plastic cover for the junction box to sit, Quarq Riken power meter 55/42, Zipp 808 and 404 with Grand Prix TT tyres 25/23mm and dura ace chain/11-13 cassette.

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Shadowness said:
Never owned any Rapha clothing until now. Couldn't resist popping into the Rapha store in London during a quick visit.

Picked up the pro team bib shorts (with black logo as the coloured ones looked a bit garish) and the pro team aero jersey. Both for £175. Not bad when you consider the shorts alone are £190!

Come on Spring!
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Shamrock said:
That's how it starts.
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:p

To be fair the bibs that 'fit & perform well' for each of us is quite subjective based on our bodies all being slightly different but the premium does buy you a better chamois, improved placement and (hopefully) longevity.

It also means you're less likely to experience discomfort and that you can put bibs on and just 'forget about them' :cool:

But I agree the sale does take make the sting of Rapha's prices slightly more bearable. 2 sets for £60-70 each last week :)
 
Just for a change I fitted a new chain... and missed one of the jockey wheel chain guides. Normally I do it on a Shimano chain so I end up with a quick link in straight away, this time it is on a KMC with the re-usable missing link but I don't have the pliers to remove it :rolleyes:

Good old Amazon prime should get the bike moving again by tomorrow evening :D
 
SoliD said:
Are they updated handlebars or just because it's less integrated Jonny? My ia4 has direct mounts to the base bar.
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They are just what comes with the cheaper frames.

Anything with a single number after is the frame you have and anything with a two digit number is the frame you see in the pictures. Does away with the bayonet 2 fork with fairings over the front brake and same at the rear.

Less faffing about when it comes to changing pads between carbon and alloy rims with minimal aero disadvantage.
 
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