Road Cycling

I reckon I'd be able to do that :p

Wait, no, it still involves going up hills.

Good luck at the weekend mate! Cracking ride. You going for the return leg too just for the lols? :D
 
Lol, so tempting. Maybe I'll use OMS's 200 mile route to get back to Manchester amirite? :p

Cheers for the donation. Will be sticking around in Laaaaandan for a couple of days afterwards to eat all the food.
 
Shame about the fitting Ben, what machine did they have up there? I keep saying I'm going to go for a fitting and I defo think I will as I get numb fingers after a while. Although I might **** about on the trainer with my bike fit app first and see what adjustments I can tweak in.

They have a proper adjustable rig but this was more just a few tweaks and double checking angles etc. Not sitting on it before riding home after making such minor changes was probably the biggest mistake but cumulatively they all added up. I figured I'd give it 5 miles or so to see if it started to feel more natural or comfortable but alas no :p

I've ridden with my wrists bent slightly back forever without issue but the combination of too much reach and my wrists in the correct alignment compressed the Ulna Nerve leading to some temporary Cyclists Palsy. So if you start to feel your little fingers/ring fingers going numb I'd stop and adjust.

My position using just my feel/eye/filming on the turbo is pretty damn good so this is a perfectly adequate method providing you've some idea what you should be aiming for and what your pedaling mechanics should be like.

It's a toss up between how it 'should' be and what 'suits' you.
 
https://www.strava.com/activities/679709706

Had a good blast last night, decided to put a good effort into things as it was a perfect evening for riding and I fancied a test on a fairly flat course. Light levels were also dropping and I needed to get as many miles in as I could! Although I rode a little too hard & too soon after eating a chinese takeaway and spent around 20 minutes with a stitch and indigestion, ooops!

A few miles in a kindly tractor (with a trailer of bales) struggled to overtake me on a slight incline and then promptly sat infront of me at ~20mph. I was swearing at him on the downhill (for holding me up) but I had some good fun on the flats being dragged along by him and was able to put some good efforts into the inclines to keep up! Bunch of PR's and probably the fastest average 6 miles I've done (24mph).

I knew I was in for a good overall average at this point, so rather than pushing on to the hill I was intending on looping around, I U-turned and headed for home. I put a fairly threshold effort into the next 10 miles, very happy with my efforts and power. Felt good but know my legs are still not quite back up to my form pre-house move. Need to do more fast rides like this, rather than the usual loops I've been doing to include a hill as I never then seem to push that hard on the flats.

TLDR; 20 miles @ 19.9mph. Happy. Shame there wasn't another 0.1mph from somewhere though! ;)

you just jelly because a commuter could pwn up a climb ha.
I'm a pro commuter! ;)
I'll miss Live Segments but don't value them highly enough to pay for, just wait until you get home :p
There's enough other Strava Premium things I use (and find interesting) that it's one of the few things I continue paying for. Everything else (Zwift, TR etc) get cancelled/stopped when I don't use them!
I find it off putting most the time anyway.
Same, there's only a couple I've got set on that I regularly ride... Waiting for the 'one day it'll be a tailwind and my legs will feel fresh' effort.
<moan moan moan, no new bike pictures>
Fit is one of those things, sometimes you can get things feeling 'spot on' and then when looked at by a fitter can be way out - our bodies can get used to strange positions, so any deviation can feel really awkward & uncomfortable!

One of the benefits of doing it yourself is making small gradual changes, but you've got to have a clear cut idea what the 'aim' of your changes are. A fitter, even with a fairly good starting fit (like yours) will see things to 'tweak' to improve your position. These tweaks may work (longer stem sounds like its working for you), others will not.

The bars/hoods issue you have (numb hands) might be coming from being further stretched out - you're possibly supporting more weight on them (than you were before) in a slightly different hand position. Hand positions, especially angle, will always take time to adjust to - you could possibly consciously recruit some core muscle (to assist with relaxing some weight on them) will also help. Tipping your bars back up is probably the easiest (unless you kept the 100mm stem?) until your body has adjusted to the other things. I suggest trying dropping them a little again in a week or two time to see how it feels.
 
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Moan about no new bike pictures, maon about saddle & tape colour

You've had your pictures sunshine and you didn't like them :p

Pretty much advised exactly what I said I'd intended to do :rolleyes: I'd been 'over-reached' so have compensated by bringing my saddle forward from it's furthest back position and reduced the change in hood/bar angle for the time being ;) The positioning I'd been put in was compressing the Ulna Nerve which as you can imagine is far from ideal.

Will keep the 110mm stem as I say as it means I can have the saddle clamped in the middle of the rails and my weight more over the centre of the bike. My reach didn't really need to increase in fairness. #8pacdoingithisway
 
I take back all my gushing about Pro4 tyres - two tyre levers broken trying to put new ones on. Combined with chain and cleaning and stuff I've been doing bike maint for about 5 hours. Sigh.
Don't say that! Have some V2 28mm to fit later with guards...! :o

Ordered Chromoplasics and Bluemels, both 'Narrow' 35mm guards so will be interesting on clearance. The Pro4E's were £22 each and fitting them this time of year will probably mean I run them over winter... I'll probably only change them if we have a prolonged and icy winter!

The Specialized Roubaix Pro tyres are quite nice on the Diverge, I intended on swapping them out ASAP (to GP4000Sii's) but after riding them kept them on. I'm going to keep them for when I do venture more off road, for now the cheaper/lighter Pro4's can take the winter abuse (as I never picked up another GP4Seasons to match with my part worn one, or some more GP4000Sii's).

Seriously anyone after a grippy tyre with some great air volume (comfort for potholes & rough roads) should try some. The ones I have are 25/28, so a 25mm tyre with the air volume of a 28mm. I imagine clearance would be an issue on road bikes, but they do a 23/25 too. At £25 (Evans?) they would be a great all weather commuting tyre. Puncture protection is reviewed as superb! Not an all out speed tyre, but great for grip and protection at that price.
One last charity spam push: 315 miles in 24 hours this coming Saturday. I even shaved my legs like xdcx asked :p
Pics or it didn't happen. Donated!
Pretty much advised exactly what I said I'd intended to do :rolleyes:
Haha, I'd written my reply before I read your update! ;)

Strange they fitted your saddle that far back, was fore/aft discussed much? Most fitters only adjust saddle with KOPS and knee angle thingy. The fits I've had, it's always one of the first things they seem to do!
 
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I take back all my gushing about Pro4 tyres - two tyre levers broken trying to put new ones on. Combined with chain and cleaning and stuff I've been doing bike maint for about 5 hours. Sigh.

I found it was the rim that made it harder rather than the tyre.

Snapped two trying to fit Vittorias on a fulcrum rim, went on hplus no bother.

BennyC that looks bloody beautiful, I'm jealous as I've been riding in the dark a lot through winter, nice sunrise this morning though.
 
I found it was the rim that made it harder rather than the tyre.

Snapped two trying to fit Vittorias on a fulcrum rim, went on hplus no bother.

BennyC that looks bloody beautiful, I'm jealous as I've been riding in the dark a lot through winter, nice sunrise this morning though.

To be honest I've fitted a few sets of Pro4Ends V2 to these same rims and though they've been a bit of a pain initially they were nothing like this latest batch. Took me forever to get them fitted :/
 
I've got some GP4000Sii's to replace Maxxiss Detonator's on my Whyte Suffolk. Should I wait till they're worn out or just do it? I don't have much confidence in the wet however in the dry they seem fine, caveat being I've never tried another tyre.
 
I've got some GP4000Sii's to replace Maxxiss Detonator's on my Whyte Suffolk. Should I wait till they're worn out or just do it? I don't have much confidence in the wet however in the dry they seem fine, caveat being I've never tried another tyre.

Replace immediately and then set fire to the detonators :p
 
Replace immediately and then set fire to the detonators :p

Ha, they that bad? :D

I really need to sort my indexing out, is it easy enough to do?

I fancy replacing the gears with something else but then I keep thinking of just saving and getting a Cervelo next spring or whenever their new models come out and pick up last (this) years.
 
Ha, they that bad? :D

I really need to sort my indexing out, is it easy enough to do?

I fancy replacing the gears with something else but then I keep thinking of just saving and getting a Cervelo next spring or whenever their new models come out and pick up last (this) years.

Yup, indexing is really easy. Just make sure your drive chain is clean (especially jockey wheels!) and don't touch the limit screws.

 
Chains.

Seems like there is a lot of choice... need to replace an Ultegra 6800 chain. Which should I go for?
I like the SRAM 1130 chain currently. I have a dislike for KMC chains on my 5800 drivetrains as I find they don't last long at all and are always noisy.
It's two years old and due a service, I'll try soring it out and if I can't then I'll the bike shop to fix it when it's in for a service.
The (limit) screws you adjusted are there only to adjust the extremes of the front derailleur, they won't really do much to 'solve' indexing on the front which is mostly done through cable tension (inline adjusters ftw).

The rear derailleur's indexing is probably what you're after, there is usually a screw back there but that is best left alone - as it's for adjusting how close the derailleur gets to the cassette. If you were swapping to a bigger/smaller cassette you would use this.

The indexing on the rear is mostly done through the adjuster (which usually is fitted into the RD itself where the cable enters it). Turning this will tighten/slacken the cable to the RD, aligning it with the cassettes gears to smooth things out. Ideally you want your cassette gear meeting the middle of the chain with every gear change (indexed, preventing 'chain rub' - the noise you're probably hearing). The recommended way is to start in the highest gear and work down, as usually once the top 4 are indexed the rest will be (shifters are 'indexed' so only a certain amount of cable moves each 'click'). If they're not then usually some dirt/crud in the shifter or cable stretch is to blame (replace the cable). :)

Indexing can seem like a black art. Getting things right can take time, I found understanding how each part worked and influenced shifting alignment helped me to quickly understand how to solve things. Silky smooth shifting is so enjoyable that everyone should learn the skills how to achieve it! :D
 
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Cheers Roady.

It's the rear I adjusted, two little screws. I now can't get it in the top cog which made climbing Birdlip much harder.

I'll have a go tonight.
 
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