Running cables with chipboard floors - Armeg solid board cutter?

[Nick1881]

I need to run some network cables around my house and was planning on lifting floorboards, until my cousin pointed out that it will be chipboard flooring. Apparently this is a big problem. My brother said he would cut a slot in the floor with a cicular saw, then add joists and screw the removed bits of wood back in. My worry is that this will eventually cause creaking.

Another thing is to use a rebated hole saw, such as the Armeg solid board cutter, these come with plugs that you drop in to the hole as it doesn't cut a straight edge. Anyone have any experience of these? The Armeg brand ones aren't cheap but possibly the best. Should I buy 111mm or 127mm?

 

[Nick1881]

I tried the Trend Routabout many years ago which cuts 250mm holes so 111/127mm sounds small when trying to drill through joists for cable/pipe runs. However I never liked the fact that any of these solutions leave a section that is only supported on part (often about two thirds) of the original 18/22mm depth so will never be as strong as before.

Given chipboard is already the weakest flooring to start with this is a concern and I prefer to cut sections up, batten and replace. I don't glue flooring (between boards or boards/joists) as I like access down the line but done properly I've never had a problem of squeaks later on.

Is this something that you do professionally? If so it would be great if you were in the midlands.

The trouble with floorboards is you never know what's underneath. And there's always a risk of drilling through something.

On the other hand a circular saw can be set to barely saw any deeper.

Have you actually had the carpets up. There may already have been some sections cut.

Not had the carpet up yet. The Armeg hole saw doesn’t cut much passed the boards anyway.

 

[Nick1881]

Not any more. I use to install various systems for commercial and domestic clients hence have dealt with a lot of floor types.

Creaking is from movement of flooring against fixings or adjacent boards/sheets. Provided there is adequate new support timber for cuts spanning joists, good screws with appropriate depth (and not reusing old screw/nail holes without packing) then there really shouldn't be creaks.

Ok thanks.

My problem is that I need my brother and cousin here at the same time to go this route, where if I get the holesaw I only need my cousin which is easier. They both work full time though so still not easy, I’m considering just paying someone tbh. Just trying to save some money as I’m tight.