Running cat6 downstairs and up?

Soldato
Joined
18 Aug 2007
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Liverpool
We live in an old brick house, which is rented. It makes wifi a little unstable upstairs, and presents some seemingly serious problems regarding wiring as all the internal walls are pretty solid. I imagine they must have a cavity (else where do the electrics run?) but they're easily a foot thick overall and so not something DIY novice me could just run at with a drill without causing some kind of mess/chaos. :o

Currently we have VM 200/20 entering the front of the property under the window, directly into the living room. It terminates about two feet away from the entry point, atop a small corner box cupboard which contains a RCD/electrics. So far I have the SuperHub 3 stood on top of the cupboard in modem mode, with a small patch cable running to an APU2C4 running pfSense, which itself lies next to the SH3. The pfSense box has a small TP-Link 8 port POE switch sitting on top of it. So far the only wired device running from the switch is a Ubiquiti UAP AC PRO.

It's quite a neat and compact setup overall, considering, though the location is a bit awkward for running RJ45 wiring to other parts of the house. I've been debating it for a few days, as I really want to run ethernet to the desktop PC (same living room, but on the opposite wall) and also run a cable to our bedroom which is upstairs, above the opposite half-end of the living room to the SH3/cable install. A picture paints a thousand words, as they say:

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My plan, as per the pic above, is to wall mount the AP above the picture rail over the SH3/firewall/switch. The only wireless devices in our house will be phones and iPads, which tend to be in the living room or bedrooms. This location would be fine for wifi (it's where it stands now, just not wall mounted). I would then run some cat6 cable from the switch along the skirting, going opposite ways away from the network equipment.

Run 1 would go along the top of the skirting under the window, then hugging the frame around and over the door, and then come away from the skirting to directly enter the desktop PC. Run 2 would run in the opposite direction; but this time along the top of the upper picture rail, and then run up the corner of the wall concealed in slimline plastic pipe/cable covering to the ceiling. The plan is to drill a small hole up through the ceiling, and then hook the cable through the floorboards to a wall mounted ethernet faceplate or keystone jack (?) just above the skirting in my room by my bed where I keep my MacBook Pro.

The plan is this would be minimally intrusive visually speaking, relatively easy to do (only one hole to drill, through an artexed ceiling), and means the main areas of the house both have wired access to the network.

Does this sound about the best way to achieve what I want? The only alternatives I can really think of are running directly out of the house and up the external wall, then back in to the bedroom to a faceplate, or else some weird and wonderful way of running up to the loft and then back down into the upstairs rooms (likely unfeasible and more mess to achieve basically the same thing). I don't want to mess with power line adapters and would rather just have proper wiring in place as we plan to stay here for the foreseeable future (it's an assured tenancy).

Any thoughts/caveats/tips please chaps, before I bust out the DIY? Is there a suitable faceplate that allows the RJ45 cable to enter from the bottom/side rather than through the back (as it would when the cable exits a cavity wall)? I'm quite happy to cut cable to length and punch down and/or fit fixings to the end, and have the tools. I'm just not sure on the drilling/locating aspects. N00b. :o
 
Skim read, but...

Drilling the walls and running cables externally is always an option. It's often the most sensible approach if you only need a couple of cables. If you do this buy external grade cable.

Buying a PoE switch to power a single UniFi AP is a bit excessive. It'll come with a PoE injector that'll power it.

If you want to connect to a faceplate using surface mounted cabling then mount the faceplace to a surface mount box instead of burying it into the wall (or install a spacer ring and drill a hole in it for the cable).
 
Skim read, but...

Drilling the walls and running cables externally is always an option. It's often the most sensible approach if you only need a couple of cables. If you do this buy external grade cable.

Buying a PoE switch to power a single UniFi AP is a bit excessive. It'll come with a PoE injector that'll power it.

If you want to connect to a faceplate using surface mounted cabling then mount the faceplace to a surface mount box instead of burying it into the wall (or install a spacer ring and drill a hole in it for the cable).

Thanks. I figured one little ceiling hole was better than two exterior wall holes, and it'll be a heck of a lot easier to do as well. As I said in the OP, our walls are almost a foot thick and all brick. The switch was £40 on offer, I'd have paid about that for a decent regular switch so why not? It freed up a power cable in a limited space, rather than having a PoE injector cable and also a dumb switch power cable. We're also looking into CCTV and switching the APU for a Dell T20 with ESXI (pfSense + NAS + CCTV?) so it'll come in handy. :)
 
First flag for me you live in a rented house so drilling holes through ceilings etc probably isn't acceptable so you should expect to loose a chunk of deposit when you leave.

What is it you are planning to do in these locations that requires a wired connection? I would be avoiding the hassle and going with either wireless or powerline unless you really need the extra bit of speed and reliability a wired connection will give
 
First flag for me you live in a rented house so drilling holes through ceilings etc probably isn't acceptable so you should expect to loose a chunk of deposit when you leave.

What is it you are planning to do in these locations that requires a wired connection? I would be avoiding the hassle and going with either wireless or powerline unless you really need the extra bit of speed and reliability a wired connection will give

Being rented isn't an issue. As I said in the OP it's a lifetime assured tenancy. We can do as we wish provided we don't cause any real damage (i.e. removing walls) without asking first. Wifi is patchy even with a UAP AC Pro, and VPN/SSH sessions are dropping. Unfortunately the wifi speed goes 26MB/sec > 2MB/sec and back again every couple of seconds. Due to 80 year old wiring (two ring mains and a half broken third one upstairs) power line isn't worth the money. Ethernet is always best, and I can so why not? :) I'm just fishing for ideas on the best way to accomplish it.
 
Its not your property, you need to ask the Landlord.
Drilling walls in holes is damage to the property no matter how minor you think it may be, and can easily be grounds to evict you.
 
Its not your property, you need to ask the Landlord.
Drilling walls in holes is damage to the property no matter how minor you think it may be, and can easily be grounds to evict you.
that is a bit militant. i think its got to be a really anal landlord to be objecting such "improvements".

its not like taking things down and not putting anything back. I am pretty sure if you can restore everything to a decent finish then no one is going to have a quarrel with you.
 
that is a bit militant. i think its got to be a really anal landlord to be objecting such "improvements".

its not like taking things down and not putting anything back. I am pretty sure if you can restore everything to a decent finish then no one is going to have a quarrel with you.

Its not his property period. How is that hard to understand?
You absolutely ask the landlord, its a 10 second phone call and can save you any potential risks associated with taking a massive hammer drill into the ceiling.

His tenancy agreement might even say worse. IE you cant do it.
 
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Its not his property period. How is that hard to understand?
You absolutely ask the landlord, its a 10 second phone call and can save you any potential risks associated with taking a massive hammer drill into the ceiling.

His tenancy agreement might even say worse. IE you cant do it.

I rent properties out and write tenancy agreements. Standard AST don't have what you described at all. Tenants have rights to make improvements. You are just scaremongering.

"The Tenant must not make any addition or alteration to the Property or redecorate the Property (or any part of it) without the Landlord’s prior written consent which must not be unreasonably withheld or delayed."

this is the clause in AST. it does not state what you described as eviction. You need consent but it should not be withheld by landlord. So there shouldn't be any concerns. so please be factual
 
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I rent properties out and write tenancy agreements. Standard AST don't have what you described at all. Tenants have rights to make improvements. You are just scaremongering.

"The Tenant must not make any addition or alteration to the Property or redecorate the Property (or any part of it) without the Landlord’s prior written consent which must not be unreasonably withheld or delayed."

this is the clause in AST. it does not state what you described as eviction. You need consent but it should not be withheld by landlord. So there shouldn't be any concerns. so please be factual

Gotta love OcUK. Post a thread asking about logistics and spend it arguing about your tenancy. For the third time (I'm speaking generally, not to you pc-guy) I have an assured lifetime tenancy and our landlord has made clear already that things like this are OK. They didn't argue when we spent £6k fixing the place up, and they don't care about us adding a cable either. Jeez.
 
Sounds like popping a hole through the ceiling would be best but come out a bit from the edges as there's likely to be a ceiling joist or battening in the way and also test for cables first.
 
Thanks. Exactly the kind of advice that I was asking for. :)

No worries.

It's probably better to drill the floor upstairs first. Same principle with coming in from the sides though but you can be more generous in how much you come in by doing it from the floor side. Don't push too much on the drill as you don't want it to shoot through the hole when it goes through. If it happens to be a floor board you may even be able to just lift a floor board without having to drill it. What I use is a large hole saw attachment for a drill, about 80mm ought to do when drilling chipboard floor sheets, which your older property might not have. Big enough you can fit your hand through the hole. Whilst you have access you can see how close to the wall you can drill a small hole through the floor. Afterwards you can use the circular piece the drill cut out to fill the hole in by screwing a piece of timber across the hole first and then the circular cut out piece can be screwed to the timber. You can fill around the circular cut space with some grip fill.

Doing this from above in the floor means you can see just how close to the edge of the ceiling you can make the hole which makes it a bit neater. If you use some large trunking going up the wall it may be that it would be big enough to hide the hole.

Best you use a surface mounted pattress box for the upstairs faceplate and one that is at least 35mm deep to accommodate the depth of the faceplate/connection. A surface mounted pattress box will most likely be white plastic and have various knock out positions to suit various points of entry for the incoming cable. If you're wanting an RJ45 faceplate on the upstairs socket you should use solid core Ethernet cable opposed to stranded for that run too and a suitable RJ45 connector made for solid core cable for the end plugging in to the router. The other cable runs look as though they're to go directly into devices so you can use stranded Ethernet / patch cables to do those.
 
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I used the hole NTL put in my living room ceiling years ago when we had upstairs and downstairs tv entering the house at one point to route my ethernet cabling (this was after I removed the NTL cable when we switched to Sky), downstairs it runs up the corner of an alcove and then upstairs it exits into an old airing cupboard, so worked out perfectly. Mine is a 1930s ex council house with pretty solid walls (but not to the extent the OPs sound) and Wifi from down to up was also a bit of an issue, now I am cabled for everything but phones/ipads and have WAPs on both levels.
 
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