Running HDMI around house

Associate
Joined
30 Nov 2010
Posts
2,316
Location
UK
Hi,

I need to run some HDMI cable from my AV cupboard on the ground floor to upstairs bedrooms, I know you can use two lengths of Cat 6 to make a HDMI connection but is that the best way to do it?

The idea is my cupboard will have all my AV equipment in it and I will have a HDMI socket in each of the bedrooms that go to the cupboard then I can just go in the cupboard and move the connection to the device I want to watch.

I would guess the maximum distance from the cupboard to the furthest away bedroom would be 13-15m.
 
Best way would be to use pure HDMI cable...

Would using long lengths have any effect on signal or anything? Wasn't sure if there was a maximum length you should use on HDMI.

Also as this would all be chased in walls, is there anything I can do to future proof it as much as possible for 4k etc.
 
Would using long lengths have any effect on signal or anything? Wasn't sure if there was a maximum length you should use on HDMI.

Also as this would all be chased in walls, is there anything I can do to future proof it as much as possible for 4k etc.

It'll be fine. Many people happily have runs of 15m or more.

HDMI 1.4 supports 4K so you'll be future-proofed.
 
I've tried to do this but struggled. My setup is

Code:
             Sky
              |
          Splitter
          |      |
   Sony Amp     Upstairs TV
          |
     Main TV

The problem I have is with the Upstairs TV. I've had problems with more than one tv with either picture or sound (never both) but found the current TV I have is ok (except it's a no name cheapy and isn't very good)

I've tried a couple of different splitters and they made no difference. I have a 1m cable to the splitter, 10m to the main TV and 15 to the upstairs one.

The upstairs TVs all worked fine if just using the 15m cable direct from Sky to telly.

I guess the combination of splitter/cable is causing my problems to if there are recommendations on what I need to make things reliable so I can use a better telly I'll be listening ;)
 
There could be lots of issues. Since there's no specific product info given in your post about the model of splitter or the models of the TVs then all I can offer is some general advice.

The first area is power.
HDMI carries a 5V power rail but it is very low current (only 50mA which is nothing really). It's there to power the HDMI input on the receiving "sink" device (TV/AV Receiver) so that the handshaking required for HDCP works even if some of the sink device(s) are switched off.

In order for a splitter to work it needs power too. Cheap splitters often siphon off some power from the 5V rail. That's not such a big issue if the splitter is behind a TV and all the HDMI cables are short. But when power runs over distance then there's a losses in the cable become more significant. The losses also become larger at higher temperatures. In short, by the time the splitter has taken a bite out of the power, what's left might not be enough when the signal gets to the TV upstairs.

ANSWER:
1) If the splitter doesn't have a power socket and transformer then change it for one that does​

Next, EDIDs.
Part of the handshake between HDMI devices is the EDID info. This is a basic "Hello, what are you and what are your capabilities" data exchange.

When you have multiple sink devices then you have two main issues. The first is differing resolutions on TVs. An unsophisticated source device will go with the lowest common denominator. So your fancy 3D capable 1080p TV will be hobbled to the abilities of the lower resolution non-3D TV because the source box can't work out that both can accept 1080i

The second issue is the EDID information itself. Some display and sink devices don't report their capabilities correctly. This is a much tougher (read: expensive) problem to solve. You should exhaust all other possibilities first before looking in to this.​

Finally, the quality of the HDMI implementation on source and sync devices
Sky is renown for playing fast and loose with the HDMI specs. For a start, they underspecified their HDMI circuitry on early HD boxes. Ever notice how long it has taken them to get DD over HDMI? That's a feature that has been in HDMI from day one ten years ago, yet Sky only just added it in the last 18 months. There's also a catalogue of carnage caused by Sky messing up HDMI with its various firmware updates. Lots of manufacturers have found that their gear suddenly stops working with a Sky box source after a Sky f/w update.

It's rare now to get issues with displays, but not unheard of. More likely though is compatibility problems with intermediary devices such as AV amps, switches, splitters, matrix boxes, scalers etc. There's not really a lot you can do about that except try the current splitter without the AV Receiver in place, or maybe if your amp has pass-thru and you aren't using ARC then try the splitter on the output of the amp instead of after the Sky box. That might not be practical in your particular layout, but as general advice it still stands.​

One other thought is a HDMI extender. Think of it as a booster but that goes at the display end. The Neet- HDMI Extender / Booster - Amplified ACTIVE Repeater - v1.3 is about £25 with the power supply.
 
For reasons already mentioned, this is why HDMI splitters that can capture EDID from a connected display are worth their weight in gold.
 
lucid thanks very much for taking the time to post all that. My Sky box is an old Samsung one and Sky have never enabled DD over it :( I do have other sources (WD Live for example) that I could use as a source to see if that makes a difference. From memory the HDMI splitter is powered but it was quite cheap. Will play again and see where I get to with these ideas. TVM.

Also from memory I think splitting the output after the Sony amp was a complete failure but I'll double check that route too.
 
Back
Top Bottom