RX8 Engine Question

Soldato
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Ive seen a local RX8 from a dealer im quite interested in, only thing is it has about 60k on the clock on a 54 plate, not sure if ive read it right but dont the engines normally require a rebuild around that kind of mileage?

Any tips or advise on buying an RX8 would be welcome :D other than people saying dont buy one lol
 
I don't think the RX8 needs rebuilds as it isn't FI, the rotor tips are of a different material, and hopefully the cooling is a bit better.
 
Not really sure but emissions have never been a strong point for Mazda rotaries. One of it's weakest points if I recall clearly in fact.

A few people/owners on here have said that it doesnt feel particularly fast and, as per the norm for rotaries, the oil consumption is much higher than your equivalent piston engined car due to the nature of how the rotary engine works.
 
Group M i think, but it all depends on when the car is registered i think? fuel and oil consumption arent a major issue as I dont do many miles and primary use is a 10 mile drive to work and 10 mile back :) just want something a bit more fun and something I can get my little boy in the back easy enough :D
 
Make sure it starts from hot! I have one with failing rotor tips with only 50k on the clock. I even have remaining zoom zoom+ warranty on it and Mazda won't acknowledge the problem. Going to have to get rid of it :0( shame as it's a great car to drive.
 
Make sure it starts from hot! I have one with failing rotor tips with only 50k on the clock. I even have remaining zoom zoom+ warranty on it and Mazda won't acknowledge the problem. Going to have to get rid of it :0( shame as it's a great car to drive.

thanks for that, what is the issue with engine flooding i think i read about? Ive only ever driven a 192 model that seemed nice enough but I chose a 350z over the rx8 back then unfortunately 2 seats just wont do now :D
 
You can't just start the engine and then shut it down without letting it warm up a bit first. You can flood the engine and damage the cat. Never managed to do this myself though.
 
Engine flooding isn't really a huge issue. You just have to be mindful of doing things like moving cars around on the drive - silly things where the car is running less than a minute, once its reached the second dot on the temp gauge (which happens in less than a mile in my experience) - you're pretty safe. Also remember once you start turning it over, don't let the key go until it starts :D
 
Engine flooding isn't really a huge issue. You just have to be mindful of doing things like moving cars around on the drive - silly things where the car is running less than a minute, once its reached the second dot on the temp gauge (which happens in less than a mile in my experience) - you're pretty safe.

Also recommended to take it to 4krpm and hold it there for a few seconds, then take the key out and release the throttle.
 
Also recommended to take it to 4krpm and hold it there for a few seconds, then take the key out and release the throttle.

Don't know where that came from but that sounds like a real bad idea to me, as that's a great way to soak the plugs and cat in unburnt fuel if you shut it off at high RPMs, making it hard to restart - you get this on piston engines too.
 
you do have the potential water seal failure issue aswell, imagine your head gasket going but having to rebuild the engine to fit it.

glad they changed the oil seal material on the rx8 so thats one issue out of the way.

also tips do wear out, if you are looking at buying on get a compression test done first with a proper mazda tester, this will tell you what condition the apex seals are in at least

in regards of what flibster said he is partially right.


hold the revs at 3krpm, turn the ignition off and put your foot flat to the floor.

as the engine is slowing down the ecu will cut fuel but the throttle is wide open, this will drag air into the engine and blow any potential fuel out of the system to hopefully prevent flooding
 
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I've also heard this revving thing, and just about everyone I spoke to about the RX8 said it was crap, none of them had ever done it and they only reports of flooding were one or two where someone else had moved/driven their car without knowing.
 
Its advertised with a 6 months part and labour warranty so I guess that should cover most of the repair bills if the worst comes to the worst? Doubt they will let me take it up to a mazda dealer to get it looked over :P
 
I wouldn't buy it without a compression check, and I wouldn't bother with a compression check unless it was performed by a qualified Mazda tech (or specialist) that knew what he was doing - there is a little more to it than your usual compression check.

If the vendor has nothing to hide, he'll have no issue with a potential customer verifying the cars health. It may be worth mentioning that in the event you didn't purchase the car, you will give him the proof of the results, which will go a long way toward helping him sell it, that way you present him with a win - win situation.
 
Don't trust a warranty. I still have a month left on a full zz+ Mazda warranty and they won't fix my dud engine! Wear and tear apparently! Cheating swines.
 
Pleeeeeeeeease go visit an RX8 forum as well as here. There'll be a wealth of first time buyer information on there.

Flooding is easy to sort. In order to not do it then before switching your engine off rev it to about 3k and as you turn it off floor the accelerator until the engine stops turning. This will stop it flooding even if you move it 100m down the road from a cold start, at least it does on my FD.

It basically clears any extra fuel out which is the cause of the flooding. Rotaries run rather rich on startup.

Deflooding an already flooded car can either be foot to the floor as you're turning it over, or you might have to remove the sparkplugs, clean them up and possibly heat them up before trying again.

As I say head over to MRC or RX8OC for some more info :)
 
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