S2000 AP1 Replacement Suggestions

[Drollic]

Looking to replace my S2000 in the summer this year and already considering replacements. I seem to go through phases of liking different types of cars, which is probably due to having fairly open requirements. I'm currently looking at hatches, in particular Megane F1 230s, with mk1 Leon Cupra Rs and mk5 Golf Gtis a close second and third inline. I'm open to suggestions though.

The car ideally needs to:

Be above 150bhp/ton (more a must)
Cost under £6k (possibly flexible)
Be no older than 04-05 (flexible)
Be under 80k mileage (flexible)
Able to average 25mpg as a minimum, ideally 30mpg+
Be 'reasonably' reliable and not suffer from known drastic failure of engine or gearbox problems costing thousands to fix.
Right hand drive (must)


Open to 2/3/5 doors, variety of engines (although turbo/sc preferred), auto if it's 'reasonably' decent, modified cars/cars that are mostly found for sale modified, imports.


Ideas?

 

[Drollic]

Keep the S2000

I should add, keeping the s2000 isn't an option. The car now has comfortably over 100k on it, and in terms of all servicing items, MOT and the fact both front wings will need work before next winter, it's a reasonably good time to sell. Discs, pads, tyres, plugs, air filter, cabin filter and fluids (diff, gearbox, coolant, brake) all done within the last two years/10-12k. Oil and filter this month. I don't want to shell out on any of them on the same car again. Clutch is stock and never done to my knowledge - don't want this going.

If the car had sub 100k with the clutch done needing the wings doing (minor rust) I'd keep it.

 

[Drollic]

Shame you can't keep it. They are only going up in value now.

I will get a lot more back than what I paid, although have had work on the rear arches done. The mileage of the car now will adversely affect the value.

 

[Drollic]

Welcome to every other £6k performance car.

Spending £6k on a performance car buys you more of the same. Which is fine, but if your intention is to avoid these worries it's not going to work.

Well aware of this. Happy to do it again. Just on a car that's newer with a lot less miles and not as likely to need bodywork addressing. I'll look for one not needing tyres, discs and the cambelt (if it has one) needing doing most likely.

 

[Drollic]

I reckon you need to spend loads more cash to get any sort of upgrade for the S2000. I spent ages mulling over options for the same money and came up short every time!

Spend the cash on your S2000 or get something completely different and give up on sports cars. Much as I like the Z4, I personally don't see it as an upgrade over the S2000.

They seem well received here, but there's no amount of cash I can spend to undo mileage. The wings would be £250-500 depending on the garage and work, and although the clutch doesn't even slip, it would be at the back of my mind another year on. The car went through it's last MOT with no advisories, however I wouldn't be surprised if corrosion gets at the exhaust after next winter either. The suspension is probably in overhaul territory to be at its best apart from a few bushes by next year also, at least compared to a 60-75k clean hatch say. I think the potential rot from winter roads on a daily 16-17 year old car I need to keep in good condition has me more bothered than anything. Hood fabric less than 4 years old and the engine uses very little oil compared to some as further plus points I suppose.

Whilst I like the looks, the engine, interior and gearbox (possibly impossible to beat at the money), the car isn't all that lightweight and as fun as some people think - certainly surprised me compared to my dc2. It's also a fraction soft for what is supposed to be a sporty car.

 

[Drollic]

Why are you stressing about the miles? The engine can take it, it is not going to go bang just because it's over 100k miles. Many higher mileage s2ks are for sale. Your 2006 6k hatch will have rust issues, clutch issues etc and can easily cost as much if not more to fix. Better have the car you know in your hards which needs minor work than buy a 10yo hot hatch.

It's not the engine going bang I'm worried about, I purchased it at over 100k. See the ref to low oil use as a plus and suspension refresh above as more concerning. It just seems like a good time to sell without spending too much to keep it in its current state. I probably shouldn't mention that the wheels have been refurbed about 18 months ago and they haven't got a mark on them

 

[Drollic]

Maybe I should look into getting some shocks and an eibach kit to sort out the soft handling. Will be able to get trade discount through a mate no doubt. I wasn't aware the exhaust was a fairly cheap item stock. The rust on the front wings is where you would expect it, right on the lower corners where the stone guard surface is. I think it's just surface rust though. Never put a quality pair of shocks and springs on a car before, only coilovers. I'd imagine the improvement would be very noticeable given the age and mileage on stock. I wouldn't want coilovers due to not being able to go lower than 30mm anyway - the cars an ap1 so on 16s, there wouldn't be hardly any clearance.

Re the hot hatch, I'd be in no rush to buy and so could source one with expensive work already done. The actual risk would be in the engine and turbo, even worse I suppose

 

[Drollic]

Koni yellows on these with eibach pro kit?

 

[Drollic]

Great dampers on these in my experience. The early ones are underdamped on the rear

I think mine have seen better days although it's been ages since I've driven another stock one that's fresher. Tempted to get some given I already have unfitted eibachs from months ago.

 

[Drollic]

I just don't see the appeal on broads in mine currently, winter not helping. Stock it actually feels heavy and too soft.

 

[Drollic]

So with a new MOT it's had some Koni shocks and an eibach pro kit. Transformed the car and quite surprised just how worn the original kit must have been. Alignment was done about 12-15k ago. I presume this is worth having done again at this point? Also, just how important are the valve clearances to get done?