Safe to spray paint the casing of a CRT TV

Soldato
Joined
23 Nov 2009
Posts
6,019
Location
North Leicestershire
Well weird one but my room is pretty much all black stuff. I recently got myself a CRT TV to use my gamecube, N64 and other old consoles on. Only problem is it's silver and it's driving me mad mad not being black.

Could i spray the casing black if so is there anything i need to be careful of or any particular paint i need to use. I imagine the casing gets warms so don't want to use the wrong paint and it to crack.

I was thinking a rub down with some 320G paper , i few light coats of flexible undercoat then maybe auto paint on top. I'm after a mid sheen finish somewhere between matt and gloss.

Any advice would be great as I've sprayed my aluminium speakers and they turned out great but a little dubious about doing the CRT.
 
If you're so OCD and want everything black then do a proper job man.

Unscrew the TV, take the casings apart, paint the bits you want to paint, and assemble once everything is dry. Just don't faff about covering bits in newspaper, just get the job done and do it properly.

Why anyone would want to spray paint a CRT TV is bizzare.
 
And here was me thinking I was the only one who actually still used a CRT.

As above, to do a proper job, you should remove the case, spray it and reassemble. However be aware that the capacitors in a CRT hold a (potentially deadly) charge for up to 24 hours after it is unplugged. So unplug it and leave it a day.
 
If you're so OCD and want everything black then do a proper job man.

Unscrew the TV, take the casings apart, paint the bits you want to paint, and assemble once everything is dry. Just don't faff about covering bits in newspaper, just get the job done and do it properly.

Why anyone would want to spray paint a CRT TV is bizzare.

Cause everything in this room is black and then there is some chunky 26 in CRT tv in SILVER damaging my eyes. LOL

i did plan to strip the casings off :)

I gave my x box to my daughter because it was white and looked stoopid next to my black desk,monitor,haf x , keyboard mouse etc etc . You get the idea
 
And here was me thinking I was the only one who actually still used a CRT.

As above, to do a proper job, you should remove the case, spray it and reassemble. However be aware that the capacitors in a CRT hold a (potentially deadly) charge for up to 24 hours after it is unplugged. So unplug it and leave it a day.



Cheers for that my dad did mention it some years ago to me when he was fixing a TV totally forgot about that :eek:

BTW you can't beat a CRT for authentic old school console gaming the N64 on my 42in LCD looks ridiculous but on the CRT it's just how i remember it. Still love playing goldeneye,mario kart, and ocarina of time and majoras mask
 
Last edited:
I can't really help with which proper paint but maybe have a go with Plastidip? There's a thread on here somewhere where loads of people tried it on things and it worked out great. I think it's a kind of plastic/rubber coating which is resilient when dry but can also be peeled off if it goes wrong and looks pants.
 
Back in the day I had a 21" CRT Sony monitor. Was white so sprayed it black. I used plasticote rattle cans, 3 coats of black and then 2 coats of clear. Don't use the clear laquer as it was pants. It had a good finish lasted me 5 years till I upgraded.
 
However be aware that the capacitors in a CRT hold a (potentially deadly) charge for up to 24 hours after it is unplugged. So unplug it and leave it a day.

NOT true unless you have a very dodgy heart!
Agree the voltage in a CRT (approx 48kV) is pretty high however the current is very low so although it will bite hard and wake you up rapidly it won't last long and will unlikely do any long term damage. (Basically it will feel like a very short burst from low power stun gun / taser
Also these high voltages in CRT are only present on the output of the flyback to the CRT anode.
 
CRT shock certainly gets the adrenaline pumping. :p

id just use plasticoat . it will do the job fine and its easy to get hold off(everywhere that sells DIY stuff usually has it)
 
And here was me thinking I was the only one who actually still used a CRT.

As above, to do a proper job, you should remove the case, spray it and reassemble. However be aware that the capacitors in a CRT hold a (potentially deadly) charge for up to 24 hours after it is unplugged. So unplug it and leave it a day.

I've always just discharged them using a resistor and crocodile clips on the cap, then checked it using a rubber handled screwdriver across the pins. Much faster and I feel safer knowing I've manually checked it's empty.
 
And here was me thinking I was the only one who actually still used a CRT.

As above, to do a proper job, you should remove the case, spray it and reassemble. However be aware that the capacitors in a CRT hold a (potentially deadly) charge for up to 24 hours after it is unplugged. So unplug it and leave it a day.

I still use CRT monitors. Now running 3 24" Sony FW900's - still nothing touches them.
 
You could always use Insulating Varnishes which basically works the same as spray paint only that it's safe to use on electrical components. It's typically used to insulate motor and transformer windings. However it might be difficult to get a hold of.
 
NOT true unless you have a very dodgy heart!
Agree the voltage in a CRT (approx 48kV) is pretty high however the current is very low so although it will bite hard and wake you up rapidly it won't last long and will unlikely do any long term damage. (Basically it will feel like a very short burst from low power stun gun / taser
Also these high voltages in CRT are only present on the output of the flyback to the CRT anode.

WRONG!

The HV caps that feed the accelerator can easily deliver more than enough current to kill you stone dead in the blink of an eye.

Newer devices with better caps can hold their charge for several months. my recommendation is to unplug it while it's displaying to allow the caps to (somewhat) discharge at the time of unplugging.

I've always just discharged them using a resistor and crocodile clips on the cap, then checked it using a rubber handled screwdriver across the pins. Much faster and I feel safer knowing I've manually checked it's empty.

Very good way of going about it. using something like a 50kOhm 5W resistor would be ideal
 
Back
Top Bottom