Seat Ibiza 2001 - various issues

Associate
Joined
4 May 2011
Posts
1,065
This is a straight copy paste from a seat Ibiza forum I posted on, but I know how knowledgable you lot can be, so thought I would cross post it.

I've got a 2001 Seat Ibiza Diesel (I think its the SDI model, but will double check tonight) that over the last year has developed a number of problems which I want to tackle. The problem is, I don't know if they are related, or how to fix them. I apologies if I've given to much info, but I'd rather do that than give not enough and miss something.

It started with the central locking - wife was on a long journey, stopped at the petrol station and locked the car. It then would not unlock with the key. The remote had been flakey up until then and after this would not work at all. Ended up getting the AA out. They got her in, but since then, we haven't been able to lock the car because it might not unlock.

At the same time, the stereo started turning itself on at random. Normally it won't come on without the key in, but it would come on by itself straight back on after being turned off even with the key out. This issue seems to have fixed itself recently however. As a side note, the volume on the stereo has gone funny - you have to turn it up one click at a time, with a pause between each click. If you turn the volume up or down several clicks at once, it goes down to 0. Guessing that's a problem with the knob (Hur hur) but thought I'd mention.

The fog light indicator appears faintly on the dashboard. When this happens, pressing the rear wiper button will set the front wipers going. About 1 in 20 times we use the car, the icon does not appear. If it doesn't appear, the rear wiper works normally. I read that someone with a similar problem disconnected their rear wiper and it resolved the problem - assuming this is true for me, is it a new wiper motor, or a relay, or something else?

A coil light is flashing on the dash periodically. I've read that this is often related to the brake lights having a blown bulb and its the first thing I'll check tonight, but whats odd is that its intermittent. Sometimes it won't show up at all, sometimes it'll flash for half an hour solid, sometimes its on for a few minutes, then off for a few, then on etc etc.

Assuming they are all related and that fixing one will help fix the others, which issue would you tackle first, and how? Or would you assume they are completely separate from the start?
 
Hadn't thought of that. Will there be earth connections for each thing, or a central one? Are they usually in the same place, or do I need to dig track down a hayes manual?
 
It started with the central locking - wife was on a long journey, stopped at the petrol station and locked the car. It then would not unlock with the key. The remote had been flakey up until then and after this would not work at all. Ended up getting the AA out. They got her in, but since then, we haven't been able to lock the car because it might not unlock.

Have you tried using the key?
 
Have you tried using the key?

Sorry, that was badly worded. To clarify:
Key will lock the car. It will not unlock it on either the driver or passenger side. Does work on the boot oddly, which is why I assume its the central locking mechanism rather than the key or the barrel.
Remote - will neither lock nor unlock the car, but as I say, that's been flaky since we got the car.
 
Normally any key for a particular car will lock it, have you tried another key because your ignition barrel may differ from the door locks i.e. work the ignition but not unlock the doors.

Re: electrical problems, first step is to clean and check both the battery terminals and also check the other end of the black battery negative lead - trace it back to where it connects the body and remove the nut and clean the connection up with emery cloth (or sandpaper if you really have to).
 
Normally any key for a particular car will lock it, have you tried another key because your ignition barrel may differ from the door locks i.e. work the ignition but not unlock the doors.

Re: electrical problems, first step is to clean and check both the battery terminals and also check the other end of the black battery negative lead - trace it back to where it connects the body and remove the nut and clean the connection up with emery cloth (or sandpaper if you really have to).

The car only came (too us) with the one key. The locks functioned normally initially. Because the remote had become flaky, we were using the key as a matter of course to both lock and unlock until it failed.

Will try cleaning terminals and connections when I get home from work. I've also been trying to figure out how to check the grounds as olivercamos suggested, but is seems that they can be just about anywhere. The problem is that they didn't do a haynes manual for this car, and there is no service/workshop manual available online as far as I can tell. Apparently I can get them from "Erwin", but at a not insignificant cost per section.
 
The best way to check grounds, if you find info on their locations, is dynamically i.e. with the circuit that uses the ground you are testing switched on. Like the stereo for instance.

With a multimeter set to volts, if you put the leads so the positive lead/on positive battery terminal, negative lead/on negative terminal, you will see just over 12v on a healthy battery, yes?

O.K.

Keeping the meter's negative lead on the negative battery terminal, now take the positive lead and place it on the earth point you wish to test, normally it will be a wire with an eye connector that's screwed or bolted to the chassis. It should read close to 0V because you are testing negative/negative rather than positive/negative yes?. No more than 0.5v, ideally under 0.3v. The higher the reading the more electricity is wanting to pass through the meter rather than through the earth, which is not what you want!
 
Back
Top Bottom