Second Opinion on this setup?
- Thread starter Jarrod
- Start date
Soldato
reverse it. pump to gpu to top rad to cpu to front rad to res to pump would be more traditional. don't know why but clockwise seems the norm.
ultimately it makes no difference but I think it will be easier to fill. the order makes no difference to temps (or next to none).
ultimately it makes no difference but I think it will be easier to fill. the order makes no difference to temps (or next to none).
Gotcha, ty - do the parts themself look OK? the only thing I'm a bit stuck on, is whether this pump is powerful enough? I've no idea the metric I need to check for this and have no context either..
Soldato
pump will be fine
Cheers bud - and the fittings, 10 compression fittings is right? 2 for each part? GPU, CPU, RAD, RAD, PUMP/RES ? Do GPU waterblocks usually come with the blanking screws (i think thats what they're called)?
Man of Honour
1 > 5 > 3 > 4 > 2 > 1
Its totally depends on your case/rad placement regarding the best routing.
Its totally depends on your case/rad placement regarding the best routing.
Soldato
You will need blanking screws - I'd get ten cheap black plastic ones. Then you need to think about a drain. I don't know that pump res but the easiest way is to have a rotatable male to male come from the pump, then an all female 3-way (t-piece) with another rotable male to male going to a ball joint valve. then the orginal fitting that would have gone to the pump goes to the last exit on the t-piece.
Look at http://www.miketimbers.com/images/computer/P600s/p600s-1.jpeg to see sort of what I mean. I did a simple blanking screw on my t-piece because if I put the case on its side that t-piece becomes the highest point. A bubble soon forms there and I can remove the blanking screw without any fluid coming out. then fit a barb and some soft tubing and I can drain the case.
Look at http://www.miketimbers.com/images/computer/P600s/p600s-1.jpeg to see sort of what I mean. I did a simple blanking screw on my t-piece because if I put the case on its side that t-piece becomes the highest point. A bubble soon forms there and I can remove the blanking screw without any fluid coming out. then fit a barb and some soft tubing and I can drain the case.
Associate
Surely you'll want a drain valve, which will also need a splitter, some male to male adapters, and at least one other fitting (for plugging in a tube to drain it). I use a 90 degree angle here (to be replaced with a 45 degree angle, but this is purely for looks). Maybe this'll give an idea of what you need, this sits on the output of my reservoir leading to the GPU:
There's also an end stop at the end of the drain valve, for looks and additional security.
Thankyou all for your help,
everything is on order and should be with me by the end of the month. Last thing for me to buy is the fluids.
I'm looking at Halfords Battery Top Up water to clean out the radiators before use, and EK Cryofuel Azure Blue (https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...mix-watercooling-fluid-1-litre-wc-9pb-ek.html) for the loop fluid.
Is there anything else I should be doing to prepare the loop except cleaning out the radiators?
thanks
everything is on order and should be with me by the end of the month. Last thing for me to buy is the fluids.
I'm looking at Halfords Battery Top Up water to clean out the radiators before use, and EK Cryofuel Azure Blue (https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...mix-watercooling-fluid-1-litre-wc-9pb-ek.html) for the loop fluid.
Is there anything else I should be doing to prepare the loop except cleaning out the radiators?
thanks
Soldato
Don't bother with battery water. Get a 1/2" G1/4 barb. Use it to zip tie your garden hose to the radiator and then just give it some mains pressure 
Don't bother with battery water. Get a 1/2" G1/4 barb. Use it to zip tie your garden hose to the radiator and then just give it some mains pressure
Is that a serious suggestion
Soldato
Is that a serious suggestion
yes. you're trying to flush the rad, you don't flush a toilet with a capful of bleach. I have an old Eheim 1250 pond pump from the early days of pc watercooling and when I get unknown components I fill a bath and put the Eheim in the bath connected to the components and run the water through them for a couple of hours.
1/2" G1/4 barb ordered - thankyou!
All flushed out as you advised... one thing - I've emptied out the water as best i can - I'm a bit concerned about corrosion inside the radiator as it will be sitting there for a week or so until i finish my loop - is this a real concern?
Thanks for your help bud
Soldato
no, not really. remove the fittings and allow it to dry on a radiator
if your tap water is particularly "hard" you might get the tiniest level of calcium carbonate in the rad but it will dissolve into any fluid you end up using.
if your tap water is particularly "hard" you might get the tiniest level of calcium carbonate in the rad but it will dissolve into any fluid you end up using.
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no, not really. remove the fittings and allow it to dry on a radiator
Good to hear! last but not least (i hope) - setting up the loop with all the parts (minus the actual computer hardware) and running it for a couple hours before then attaching it to the hardware. good idea? bad idea? I assumed it would be a good thing to flush out any contaminants inside the blocks etc, but would prefer not to waste my time if its not needed! thanks again
Soldato
flush everything even if it's new. once you have all the kit. put all the blocks on, put it all together, (no tubing yet), do a POST to check the hardware boots.
then fit all the tubing. with the PSU disconnected from all the hardware connect the pump to the PSU. this may need an adaptor depending on your pump.
to power on the PSU short the green wire on the 24-pin connector to one of the black wires (or buy a tester like this - can't find one on OCUK) and fill the loop with no power going to any of your components. this way, if there is a leak anywhere, your components will get wet but won't blow
lots of paper towels everywhere. lots of spares in case of a serious leak.
run the loop like this for a couple of hours if it's your first. I must admit to being very blase about leak testing these days because overconfident/stupid.
then fit all the tubing. with the PSU disconnected from all the hardware connect the pump to the PSU. this may need an adaptor depending on your pump.
to power on the PSU short the green wire on the 24-pin connector to one of the black wires (or buy a tester like this - can't find one on OCUK) and fill the loop with no power going to any of your components. this way, if there is a leak anywhere, your components will get wet but won't blow
lots of paper towels everywhere. lots of spares in case of a serious leak.
run the loop like this for a couple of hours if it's your first. I must admit to being very blase about leak testing these days because overconfident/stupid.
Ready to test for leaks/flush the components with some deionised water before draining and filling with proper coolant. Unfortunately waiting on a delivery for a 4 pin PWM to molex adapter so I can plug the pump into a spare power supply. Excited and a bit worried! Picture below, I'm sure there are rookie errors in there... hopefully nothing catastrophic though!
Well, beginning to pull my hair out - I cant figure out a way to power this pump, it's a PWM connector only - no molex or sata. I bought a PWM to molex adapter that turned up today, but whenever I plug the pump into my second power supply - the power supply instantly shuts off.... I hope this isn't a duff pump.