Short cracking noise when flipping the switch off

[kvrier]

Hi,
this is a story why you should get enough sleep before messing with hardware.

PSU: Kolink Continuum 1200 W Platinium 80+

I disassembled my PC for cleaning, after putting it back I forgot to connect 10 pin to the PSU. (as shown in the picture).

In other words, 18 pin alone was connected to the PSU, and 20+4 pins to the motherboard. I haven't noticed that and obviously PC didn't turn on.

I began inspecting hardware and I've done the paper clip test putting it in 4th pin and 5th pin. PSU made short cracking noise. I've noticed my mistake and put 10 pin cable back again.

Computer works normally, fans are spinning, everything looks fine except that PSU sometimes makes short cracking noise when I flip off the switch. It doesn't make that sound when I turn it on. I can't smell smoke or see any sparks.

Should I be concerned? If yes, what should I do next?

 

[lord filbuster]

When you say 4th and 5th pin, you mean on 20+4 connector, on the side closest to the connector clip (pins 16 & 17)?

If you shorted pin number 4 & 5 that's actually 5v and ground, which would explain why it made a sparking noise. Wouldn't have thought it would have damaged anything if its a one off, PSUs usually have protection built in for this sort of thing. Likewise not connecting everything isn't going to have hurt anything

The arcing when you turn the switch off is relatively common as well, I don't think that's anything to worry about.

 

[EsaT]

If you mean PSU's own power switch in its rear, that noise is just electric arcing before contact opens enough to finally cut current.

There's always at least tiny bit of arcing/sparking the moment contacts start moving away from each others.
Duration of that depends on both voltage and current:
Higher voltage can strike literally through some air gap to "restart" current.
And higher current increases strength of arcing/ionizing of air.
When both are high results are spectacular:

Over time that arcing literally burns and deforms contact surfaces.
Hence switches try to minimize that by design making contact close and open fast.
(wouldn't be any wonder if Kolink used some cheaper switches)

 

[kvrier]

Hi guys, thanks for quick replies. I've been busy reinstalling OS on my laptop and that's the first time I could have a glance at the forum.

When you say 4th and 5th pin, you mean on 20+4 connector, on the side closest to the connector clip (pins 16 & 17)?

Exactly, just following what I've found on the web. It's good to hear everything is alright, fighting with customer service for a replacement is the last thing I need right now.

When both are high results are spectacular:

Wow. That's more than spectacular. I can't get my head around how electricity finds the shortest way between contacts creating an arch and not just a straight line.

(wouldn't be any wonder if Kolink used some cheaper switches)

Is Kolink less reliable manufacturer than others? I'm green in these stuff, that's my very first 1000W+ setup.

 

[EsaT]

Wow. That's more than spectacular. I can't get my head around how electricity finds the shortest way between contacts creating an arch and not just a straight line.


Is Kolink less reliable manufacturer than others? I'm green in these stuff, that's my very first 1000W+ setup.

Arc starts at direct path when contacts separate.
But ionized air heated by it is at tens of thousands of degrees (think of it as continuous lightning strike) and obviously warm air starts to rise.
That rising air bends and stretches path of current until distance is too long for voltage/current.

Kolink isn't maker but brand put onto sticker oof PSUs made by factories doing cheap enough offer.
And cheaper Kolinks are pretty much garbage.
Some models are even basically fraudulently model numbered.
And neither have even top models had exactly best reviews, but mostly also those never show up in reviews.
So best to assume quality to be between garbage and OK without guarantee when something inside is cost downed.