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So I just lapped my Q6600

steve258

steve258

steve258

Soldato
Joined
3 Jan 2006
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And it ended up looking like this..

p1261203wd4.jpg


Does that look right?

Not what I had in mind but it's very flat now and overall temp is about 10C cooler according to everest. It was fairly concaved so took me well over an hour to sand it down to copper with a 400grit, from then on it got easier with each grade increase, spent about 10 mins sanding in circular motion on each grade from 600, 800, 1000 and all the way to 10 micron.

But the B3 runs HOT and it's still topping out 90C at anything more than 1.45V when priming and that's under lapped tuniq tower as well with arcticlean and AS5 applied.. It was throttling as well so good job I left TM2, C1E & EIST enabled.
 
it does look a little scratchy, could be finished off with a finer wet & dry, but hey at the end of the day its flat and cooler and you won't see it anyway so who
cares :)
 
that's mighty toasty. Are you sure it's seated properly?

Also have you been able to break 400fsb yet?
 
Yeah it says 90C in everest when priming at 3.4Ghz 1.45V. And yes it's seated properly as far as I can see. Can't be bothered to take the mobo off again to remount the HSF, it's currently at 3.33Ghz 1.425V and all 4 cores are at around 70C running 4x F@H so it should be fine.

And no I haven't tried breaking the 400FSB again as the chip won't do that high anyway without monster cooling so there's not much point. I'm sure it's the settings or BIOS I use will have to try later.
 
that looks quite scratchy!
when i lapped my old heat sink (the only time i have lapped anything) i used about 5 grades of wet dry and although the aim isn't to polish it looked mirror like and there were only a few tiny tiny marks i could see....
 
it doesn't make much of a difference what motion you use as long as you make sure your doing it evenly. best in my opinion is up and down, whilst turning 90 degrees every 30 seconds or so. then to get a shinier finish just uses lower grade wet and dry.

I only went down to 1200 grade on mine, and the marks were almost none visible.

I would take the hsf off and check how much of the cpu and hsf are actually contacting. My Tuniq needed a good 30 minutes with 120 grade paper to get it flat it was so bad, then just worked my way down to the 1200 till i was happy with the finish.

Also when lapping its always a good idea to use a straight edge to check the flatness, i just used a credit card.
 
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What's wet and dry? On the instruction it simply says put a few drops of water as lubricant.

Hmm I still have the sandpapers so may do it again if it's absolutely necessary.
 
steve258 said:
What's wet and dry? On the instruction it simply says put a few drops of water as lubricant.
Click to expand...

It's just an abrasive paper, but is water proof.

Waterproof Wet & Dry Paper (230 x 280mm) uses a flexible, latex impregnated, anti-slip backing paper with a fully resin bonded grit. Can be used wet or dry as a durable abrasive for hand finishing. Supplied in full sheets down to very fine grits for preparation of painted or lacquered surfaces, fibreglass and metals to produce a high quality finish.


The water does lubricate, but it also takes away the waste material.
You can use oil and water on it to act as a lubricant, and that also reduces the harshness of the grit.

Maybe yours could be less scratchy, but it's flatness that counts.

Your defeating the object if you just polish an unflat surface.
 
I was reading the guide from these forums last night and if I remember right it says to rub circular until flat then one way if you want a shinny surface.
 
Use 000 steel wool. You can get it from hardware stores. Used with oil to polish wood. Give it a go with that + brasso metal polish. Then with a soft cloth or soft leather + basso. You should be able to get it looking like a baby's bottom.
 
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