Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Nov 2009
- Posts
- 5,366
I have the 3.6kW Sunsynk. It can't handle 5.1kW from what I have seen.
Solar panels and battery - any real world reccomendations?
- Thread starter GinG
- Start date
Soldato
Yes, been very happy with it. Initial setup was all very simple. It's pretty much all set to plug and play with everything you need out of the box (at least the version I got from ITS was).
You will need 3 spare slots in your consumer unit (as well as an MCB for the inverter) for the acrel meter that it uses to monitor energy to the grid.
The cloud app is a bit fiddly. You need the datalogger to connect it. I guess it's more designed for experienced installers that will understand their industral terminology for everything. But Solis support have been really helpful, and I've now got everything working nicely. You need to request remote control of your inverter from Solis support as it's not available by default. Also, PV generation details aren't available in the UI unless you ask them to enable it.
Once it's all setup, you can remotely adjust the forced charge times and charge rates from the grid quite easily. I vary my overnight charge rate depending on how much sun is forcast the next day.
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Man of Honour
I've got the data logger dongle and got the API from the Solis support team. As you say it's a bit jargon-y but the data it provides is excellent.
Associate
It depends on the version. The newer ECCO version is for the UK market though I've heard a software update can get them all working with the higher MPPT. An MPPT of 7.2kW means that it can generate 3.6kW of AC while sending 3.6kW to batteries as they are DC coupled. This means that you only get clipping if the panels are generating more than 3.6kW and the batteries are full.
Associate
@Bug One Thanks for the detail, I may be back to pick your and @Freefaller brains re datalogger setup. I have a 2014 Solar FiT setup which I cant disturb but this should compliment it without breaking the bank. I'm going for a Frogstar 5.15Kwh rack battery and Solis RAI-3K-48ES-5G with an option on another battery if I find I need one. We are not heavy users, biggest constant load is the aircon in summer but once the house temp drops its just ticking over 
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Associate
Slot 1&2 will be 6A mcb for the meter and a 32A mcb for the AC grid feed to the inverter yes?
Are modern inverters fussy about being on RCD side of the Consumer Unit?
Do you get nuisance tripping?
I have a split load 17th edition CU so I can find a slot on the None RCD side if need be?
So I'm guessing the 3rd slot is for the AC Backup load in case of mains failing? I wont bother with that one just yet. I'm 2 doors from the local sub station and in the many years I have lived here, we hardly have any power cuts.
I have a 32Amp Isolator for the Grid feed and the battery rack has a 125A DC breaker so that's all I need isn't it?
I bought the Fogstar battery already, just sorting who to go to for the Solis 3kw Inverter now.
Soldato
I've got the inverter on a 20amp MCB. It's 3.6kw max output, so more than enough. Not had any tripping issues.
The extra three slots are for an additional meter you'll need to install to monitor the grid use. This one. The inverter connects to this with a RS485 (rj45) cable.
www.acrel-electric.net
The backup load facility is an entirely different circuit - not connected to grid. I was going to add an RCD protected socket in the garage below it. Never had a power cut long enough to need to recharge anything, so have disabled the function to remove any potential battery drain from it. Perhaps if Putin steps up the nuclear rhetoric I'll add a socket in preparation for end of the world scenarios.
The extra three slots are for an additional meter you'll need to install to monitor the grid use. This one. The inverter connects to this with a RS485 (rj45) cable.
ACR10R-D16TE Single Phase Power Meter with CTs for Solar Inverter-Energy Meter-Products-Acrel Co., Ltd.
Acrel Co., Ltd. - Acrel Co., Ltd. [Stock Code : 300286. SZ] is a high-tech enterprise concentrating on research, produ...
www.acrel-electric.net
The backup load facility is an entirely different circuit - not connected to grid. I was going to add an RCD protected socket in the garage below it. Never had a power cut long enough to need to recharge anything, so have disabled the function to remove any potential battery drain from it. Perhaps if Putin steps up the nuclear rhetoric I'll add a socket in preparation for end of the world scenarios.
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Associate
Now you have me confused, that's a 3 phase meter, the manual shows a single phase meter connected with live to terminal 1 and Neutral to terminal 4. That's just 1 rcd slot.
Even with using a single phase supply on the 3 phase meter it would just be a Live loop to 2 different terminals from 1 rcd and neutral strapped to 2 more terminals. ?
Associate
I have plenty of spare ways, I have 2 CU's I'm just confused as to why the meter needs 3 slots
Soldato
Here's the manual with installation instructions.
I don't know why they're using such an awkward sized and seemingly over speccced meter just to add an additional CT. It's designed to be rail mounted - I guess you could stick it anywhere if you like. I've got mine in the solar sub-CU.
I don't know why they're using such an awkward sized and seemingly over speccced meter just to add an additional CT. It's designed to be rail mounted - I guess you could stick it anywhere if you like. I've got mine in the solar sub-CU.
Ah well you mentioned that you need to put it on the non-RCD side. Nothing can be installed there unless it has RCD protection.I have plenty of spare ways, I have 2 CU's I'm just confused as to why the meter needs 3 slots
The other thing to consider is if you need SPDs which will take up additional slots.
Associate
Yes the reason for maybe putting it in the none RCD side is that's where the installers put my PV Inverter to stop nuisance tripping as are my freezers so they don't get tripped while I'm on holiday.
Permabanned
Got home today to find my system is t generating any power. Climbed up into the loft to inevitably find the inverter is showing a fault code.
Decided to take it apart to investigate this known fault specific to the brand of inverter I have and found this.
I know a guy that can hopefully fix this other wise I’ll be shopping for a new inverter.
Decided to take it apart to investigate this known fault specific to the brand of inverter I have and found this.
I know a guy that can hopefully fix this other wise I’ll be shopping for a new inverter.
Soldato
Got home today to find my system is t generating any power. Climbed up into the loft to inevitably find the inverter is showing a fault code.
Decided to take it apart to investigate this known fault specific to the brand of inverter I have and found this.
I know a guy that can hopefully fix this other wise I’ll be shopping for a new inverter.
How old is it?
Looks like a switch that has gone pop ?
Edit, or is that the remains of a capacitor there?
Edit 2, ah its a relay switch. If its the component itself at the top of the image which it appears to be
If that all thats gone should be a simple fix
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Permabanned
8-9 years old. It’s a relay that’s burnt out I think. They are known for it apparently.
Soldato
So under warranty or not?
Assume not by you saying your going to repair. Or is that because of downtime?
fingers crossed it just nuked itself and nothing else got taken out.
Soldato
I see someone has a "kit" in order to replace all 4 at the same time
Not sure about the specific hardware compatibility etc , but the most solar kw the system deliver to the house is 3.6kw(your inverter being the limiting factor). There are advantages to having more solar than inverter size(e.g you can produce more for longer if parts of the array are in shade etc so it's all good). You'd need to make sure you can fill your batteries within any cheap rate window otherwise you are reliant on solar to refill to deliver any cost savings(charging via the grid for batteries outside of cheap rate is pointless) . A quick google of the battery tells me you'll be fine from battery to house Kw wise but it'll charge at 2.5Kw meaning all being equal it'll take you just over 2h to fill. So doubling it up means it'll take 4 1/4 hours to charge from the grid.
Not a solar engineer, just been through the same process recently. with other inveters and batteries(went all for the same make just to be sure).
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Permabanned
No warranty ran out in 2019 I was hoping it was a 10 year warranty but it was only 5.
I could possibly attempt it myself although we use guy at work that repairs all our boards ect, it’ll be a doddle for him.