Some Problems - Better Lens or Better Lighting?

[Edrof]

Hello all,

I've started doing some 'proper' photos of my wares (antique weaponry) and, while I'm finding photographing the hilts easy with nice results, I am struggling to get shots of the full item to come as out crisply. I'm using a Canon 5d Mark II with a 50mm 1:1.4 Canon prime lens and the cheapest lights imaginable.



I find that having an F-stop high to ensure the whole sword is in focus (they average at a metre long) means I have to raise the ISO a lot and this leaves the image grainy:



Should I be switching to a different sort of lens for the wide shots? Or is the issue my lighting? I'm very new to photography and I don't know much so thanks for any help.

Matt

 

[Edrof]

You could always investigate focus
https://digital-photography-school.com/a-beginners-guide-to-focus-stacking/

That's new to me, thanks!

Use a tripod then you'll be able to extend the depth of field to show the whole sword in focus and keep the shutter open without any shake or requirement to increase the iso up so that there's grain.

I do use one now and it makes a huge difference. Before, I'd have to take about ten shots for one to be crisp but now it's two or three at the most.

 

[Edrof]

Thanks guys. I don't use a timer or anything - just the normal button. I feel like the wide images are in focus but grainy due to the higher ISO that I need to use when I make the F bigger, around 10, to get all of the sword in focus.

I have no idea what speedlights are (I'll Google it in a bit!) and I'm using £30 Esddi softbox lights from Amazon.

I suppose the other option is to stop putting the swords at an angle and instead put them directly perpendicular to the camera like this one I did (unedited), then I can still use a smaller F-stop:

 

[Edrof]

Speedlights = flash. Something along the lines of what you can find in the Godox range (for Canon in your case) would be of interest, coupled with a (strip) softbox for optimum results, or bounce cards (even a white wall), you could try bouncing it at first come to think of it. Would recommend a tripod regardless of whether you opt for a speedlight or not. If no tripod, consider placing the camera on something stationary (table, chair, pile of books etc) and using the self timer to avoid any motion blur.

Thank you. I've got a tripod arriving (I borrowed the last one) and I've made up a couple of white surfaces to bounce light around. I also bought two crazily powerful work lights that I now bounce off the ceiling to fill the middles of the sword blades as that's usually where there is a dark patch from only having two main lights. I'll try the timer too - would it really make that much of a difference even on a tripod?

 

[Edrof]

This is all brilliant, thank you all for sharing and being patient with me! If it's okay, I will update the thread now and then as inevitable further questions arise.