Spec me a nitro RC buggy....

[sketchytom]

ho boa hyper 7 excellent buggies

much better than my thunder tiger tomahawk truck that keeps breaking bloody bushes on the suspension arms

 

[Fuzz]

You wont go far wrong with something made by HPI.
My old Hellfire took some serious abuse in its day.
This is from my local quarry.

Sitting on the display bench in the living room I now have a Hobao HyperST. The poor Hellfire has been demoted to the attic.

 

[arknor]

I disagree... Evidenced by my Savage X sitting in the cupboard that is in two pieces after hitting a curb (front wheels/axle and the rest)...

Did it a few years ago and still haven't got round to fixing it.

most people replace anything plastic that breaks with RPM upgrades as they will replace the part if it broke under normal operating conditions.

there plastic is made to be indestructable

 

[DreXeL]

Sitting on the display bench in the living room I now have a Hobao HyperST. The poor Hellfire has been demoted to the attic.

Hyper ST's really are utterly indestructible. I used one as a base for my custom brushless 1/8 scale shortcourse truck (essentially a Hyper ST chassis with Hyper 7 suspension arms, and a Short Course shell and wheels). I just cannot break the thing, even when I abuse it like this:

Build thread here for anyone interested:

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/150819-drexels-18-hyper-sc-project/

 

[Fuzz]

It's just not the same without the BBBRBbbrrbrbrbrbrbrrbababababababababaababababpppppppppppppp of the the Nitro engine.

 

[DreXeL]

It's OK, my Savage is (and always will be) nitro. It's running an LRP ZR32, utter beast of an engine:

Savage build thread: http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/142158-the-evolution-of-drexels-savage/

 

[dowie]

that's a great price - not looked at these for ages - I got one for my birthday about 17 years ago.... was an electric one, tamiya bear hawk, spent a bit of time building it with my dad etc...

fantastic present to get for your son tbh..

 

[Amp34]

most people replace anything plastic that breaks with RPM upgrades as they will replace the part if it broke under normal operating conditions.

there plastic is made to be indestructable

I bent one half of the chassis to almost 90 degrees...

But I agree, most damage is just a broken shock or something similar.

 

[Deleted member 66701]

Any recommendations for a complete build kit instead of ready to drive?

Hobao Hyper 7

 

[Munkyman]

Hobao Hyper 7

You can't go wrong with a Hyper 7, the Hyper 9 is just as good. They're perfect if you want to start racing as well.

 

[red eye]

What nitro percentage is the fuel you are using for your aircraft? Generally aircraft are run on much lower nitro percentage than land models, ideally you want to be running that buggy on 20-25%. It'll run on lower percentage, but will be down on power and run hotter.

other way round? 20% runs hotter then 16%

 

[red eye]

ho boa hyper 7 excellent buggies

much better than my thunder tiger tomahawk truck that keeps breaking bloody bushes on the suspension arms

tomahawk looks just like my associated rc10 maybe the associated parts will fit

 

[Kavalree]

Let me say this, that car will cost MORE than stated due to constantly having to replace the cheap plastic.

Get a Hyper 7, set for life. I used to race mine down at SNRC, I also had a Mugen Seiki MBX-5T Pro with a £300 engine that I preferred, much smoother and more fun.

The Hyper 7 lasted forever with only about £30 being spent on broken parts as I crashed it. I spend around another £400 on upgrades and a racing engine.

So, Hyper 7 TQ Sport...sorted.

 

[Munkyman]

I also had a Mugen Seiki MBX-5T Pro with a £300 engine that I preferred, much smoother and more fun.

Mugens are awesome

 

[SkodaMart]

Update.

Well, had it running for the first time today.
The supplied glow plug didn't last 30 mins, so I am now using an OS A3 to good effect.
The idle needle was poorly adjusted 'out of the box' and it wouldn't idle, so spent a while getting that right.
Put a couple of tanks through it on a rich needle at fast idle, with the occasional 'blip'
Using Prosynth 10% nitro and it goes like a rocket!
Overall, a fantastic product for the money.

Intended use, tarmac and smoothish gravel.

Recommended!

Edit: Oh and my ears are bleeding!

 

[Munkyman]

Glad to hear you got the engine running. I'd change to 25% fuel though. It's better for the bigger .21/3.5cc engines like yours.

 

[SkodaMart]

Glad to hear you got the engine running. I'd change to 25% fuel though. It's better for the bigger .21/3.5cc engines like yours.

I am used to RC aircraft engines....

But it would be a lie to say it was straight forward! (I have the blisters to prove it. lol!)

Should have reset both needles from the off, but the instruuctions said it was 'factory pre-adjusted'

Yeah, might get some higher nitro fuel later on. (16% oil and 16% Nitro recommended for 'running in') Mine is 18% oil.

 

[SkodaMart]

Spins under heavy braking?

Any suggestions?

 

[alistair55]

Never mind just spotted the update. welcome to the nitro family

Alistair

 

[Munkyman]

I am used to RC aircraft engines....

But it would be a lie to say it was straight forward! (I have the blisters to prove it. lol!)

Should have reset both needles from the off, but the instruuctions said it was 'factory pre-adjusted'

Yeah, might get some higher nitro fuel later on. (16% oil and 16% Nitro recommended for 'running in') Mine is 18% oil.

Better to get it now tbh, you want that engine to get the best while it's running in. 10% will just make it run too hot and you don't want it going much over 200f until it's bedded in. Car engines don't get the benefit of the cooler air that the plane engines get and they tend to go through a bit more abuse.

Spins under heavy braking?

Any suggestions?

It's 2wd isn't it? It'll just be the rears locking up and making it spin.