Spec me some watercooling plz

For a CPU only loop the 18W DDC is gonna be overkill.. if you're planning on adding motherboard and GPU blocks into the same loop at a later date get the 18W.
 
Either will do, the 10w will be more than fine for the loop as the FuZion isn't restrictive at all which just reflects how well designed the block is considering it's a great performer.

18w won't cause any bleed issues if you use a good reservoir such as the MCRES. I've bled a fair few builds using the 18w DDC with Alphacool/Petras tops and the MCRES and never ad a problem.
 
Mekrel said:
I'm pretty sure these pumps are not designed for heating systems in houses. I suppose the need for high pressure pumps came from the fact that at the time of release, the WhiteWater/Storm impingement designs were still at large and the specifications of "a perfect pump" was laid down by Cathar here.

The DDC's can pretty much handle any non over the top multi block loop with very little heat dump, I think over the top pump award would have to go to those who use Iwaki RD-30's which require a dedicated power supply to supply 24v which is ridiculous considering loops perform no better at 24v than they do at 17v due to the heat dump being so large.
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http://www.laing.de/produkte/pumpen/gleichstrompumpen_vario/

The laing D5 Vario (Swiftech 655) is actually originally called the Ecocirc - and it's a general water pump. And it's actually an 8-24V pump too.

The DDC pumps were not designed for computer cooling - they were designed as water-pumps that just happen to be very small and 12V and therefore are ideal for water-cooling. Alphacool originally grabbed these, and modded them with a special top for G1/4 so they could use their own 10/8 couplings or 3/8" or 1/2".

Laing do now advertise computer pumps, but only because they are so big in the OEM market. If you want a cheap Laing pump, your local plumbing store is surprisingly cheap compared to one branded for PCs only.
 
I know the D5 originally was because of the brass top version, but the DDC's can only take a maximum of 60 degrees water temp (off the top of my head without looking at specification).

I don't think anything particularly designed for PC cooling use apart from the blocks and now radiators, even the tubing we use is vacuum stuff, Zerox/Pentosin G11/Hydrex coming from the car and boat industry and biocide from aquariums.

There's no wrong choice here for the pump, 10w will do fine and so will 18w, going for 18w pump will have no negative performance effect and they're still quiet. With 7v yates, and a 18w DDC my PSU was the loudest thing in my computer.
 
Heres what i finally went with:

2 x YATE LOON 120mm - D12SL-12
Masterkleer 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) PVC Tubing
1 x 12mm Hoseclips Pack of 10
1 x Laing DDC 18w Pump (rev 3.2)
- Aftermarket Top: Alphacool Acrylic Top
- Barb Size for Selected Top: 1/2"
1 x D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit
1 x Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV GREEN 1ltr
1 x Thermochill PA120.2 Barb Size: 1/2"
1 x D-TEK FuZion CPU Block Barb Size: 1/2"



Should be here tomorrow i think :)
 
said:
Heres what i finally went with:

2 x YATE LOON 120mm - D12SL-12
Masterkleer 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) PVC Tubing
1 x 12mm Hoseclips Pack of 10
1 x Laing DDC 18w Pump (rev 3.2)
- Aftermarket Top: Alphacool Acrylic Top
- Barb Size for Selected Top: 1/2"
1 x D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit
1 x Feser One - F1 - Cooling Fluid - UV GREEN 1ltr
1 x Thermochill PA120.2 Barb Size: 1/2"
1 x D-TEK FuZion CPU Block Barb Size: 1/2"



Should be here tomorrow i think :)
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Nice WC components, Look forward to the build log, Update Gerard
 
Well go all my stuff today (except resevoir) can't really say im too happy at the moment. The pump i received has the 2 barbs on the front of it, not one on top one at the front like i was expecting. The radiator seems to have no screws to mount it to the case, and the quad nozzle for the d-tek seems hard to orientate in the right direction, its like after getting it sitting properly i screw the block together and the motion of doing the screws jiggles it about a bit and the centre split in the nozzle is no longer centred.

Just feel like sending the lot back and not bothering, wtf is the point of buying a radiator if theres no supplied screws to mount it to the case.
 
More waiting then :( Thought ths would have been up and running early next week, seems if im gonna get the pump replaced and wait for rad screws and the res it will probably be a while yet =/
 
RE: The Alphacool top for the pump.

What do you mean it only has the inlet/outlet on the side? The top usually has a metal bung in the top which you undo and that then becomes the top inlet.

Then use metal bung to plug the side inlet. Use an Allen/hex key for this.

Have you not got a local DIY shop near you? If so, get some:

Number 6, 1-1/4" inch self tappers which will go through case, fan, neoprene gasket and then into radiator. Should be cheap to buy too, I don't believe you get mounting screws with Thermochill radiators.
 
Gerard said:
The pump i received has the 2 barbs on the front of it, not one on top one at the front like i was expecting.
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Hi,

Is there not a hex-nut in the top of the pump? I think there probably is. Undo that and undo the barb from the front (nearest the middle) and swap them over voila!

[Edit]Beaten by a minute![/Edit]

Gerard said:
The radiator seems to have no screws to mount it to the case
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Is it a Thermochill? If so, REALLY look in the box, as they're probably in there somewhere. If not, then they will send you some. If you can't wait then all the big DIY stores sell the right size in both self-tapping (as supplied by Thermochill) and bolt formats. I like the allen-headed bolts myself.


Gerard said:
The quad nozzle for the d-tek seems hard to orientate in the right direction, its like after getting it sitting properly i screw the block together and the motion of doing the screws jiggles it about a bit and the centre split in the nozzle is no longer centred.
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Mine pressed in and was quite a snug fit. I have to say my first reaction when I saw what I'd spent £4 on was WTF!? Airfix or what? But they do work very well. Send it back if it doesn't fit properly. I'm certain it shouldn't move around as otherwise how is it going to orient itself properly one you start forcing water through it.

Gerard said:
Just feel like sending the lot back and not bothering, wtf is the point of buying a radiator if theres no supplied screws to mount it to the case.
Click to expand...

I can understand that point completely. There is far more to manufacturing product than whoopty-do design and product development. The actual product you get should work, and it should have all the bits with it, so why not send it back. And if you've been reading any of the threads on the new Swiftech 220 system, it seems to absolutely hammer conventional custom water cooling. For a fraction of the price.
 
WJA96 said:
And if you've been reading any of the threads on the new Swiftech 220 system, it seems to absolutely hammer conventional custom water cooling. For a fraction of the price.
Click to expand...

Aye, that's a good kit - shame it wasn't out when Gerard was looking for some water cooling however I don't think it hammers conventional custom water cooling as there have been no controlled tests and probably won't be since BillA no longer does any testing.

I think Rosco over at CoolingMasters is the only person to have a test bed that's designed to accurately test components.

In theory, there are better radiators, blocks and pumps than the ones in the compact kit but from a performance/price ratio it's certainly an attractive product.
 
Got the pump sorted, ended up taking that nozzle out of the waterblock. From what ive read the difference is only a couple of degrees at best. Now i need some screws, think ill try and get a hold of some that are long enough to let me have some space between the rad and the back of the case. Probably talking 6" screws at least. Still amazingly peeved theres no bloody screws with this rad, may as well have sold me a car with no steering wheel.

Tsinc has the same rad as me and apparently his came with screws:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=17811870

Actually he had to ask the retail for his it looks like.
 
Well was gonna install it today but even with the swiftech radbox the rads not pushed far enough back to make use of the predrilled hose holes without kinking the tubing. The radbox come with 2" bolts, looks like i'll need 4-5" or so to get the rad pushed back far enough.

=/
 
Little update from ages ago. I got it all installed (sort of) but for whatever reason was still getting insanely high temps on the quad core. Was having problems getting a place for the swiftech res inside the p182. Today i just ordered a drive bay resevoir and am gonna give it another go this week hopefully.
 
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