Split Air con
- Thread starter YoungBlood
- Start date
Caporegime
Office set at 20, bedrooms set at 18, with all units running in "silent" mode, you would be hard pushed to tell anything is turned on tbh.
I have upstairs set at 19c and auto and it fluctuates a bit between 18.5 and 20.5 depending on the time of day and how much sun that room is getting. Lounge usually set at 18.5 during the day to keep downstairs cooler then 20c when I go and actually sit in at night.
What's the point in having AC if not to enjoy the cold?
I actually sleep better when it's cold like this, I'm still using my winter duvet and extra blanket.I'm quite impressed by my 2Kw system (7000BTU) from Mitsubishi being able to cool my average size bedroom down to the temps it does. The main temp on the settings is 18c but it obviously goes lower than that as the cold air will sink in the room, the readings below are from the Hive radiator valves, so they sit pretty low to the floor.
I worked out it's costing 13p/hour with the inflated cost of electricity at the moment, so not terrible, you could run it all day cheaper than a cup of coffee from Costa.
Soldato
I only have AC in the upstairs (2 floors) of my house so I end up wearing shorts and tshirt in the house, otherwise I get too hot when I go downstairs. I set the office to 24c and sometimes that feels too cold with shorts on.
It's what you're used to though, some people won't feel cold at 18c, I dislike it at 23c, but then in the winter I don't need my heating cranked up to 23c to feel comortable either. 18c is not ridiculously cold at all. Most households would drop below this if they don't have their heating on in the middle of the night if it gets cold.
Soldato
The bigger the temp differential is between outside and inside, the harder it will need to work (and the more energy it uses).
I'm in the camp of setting it to a reasonable temp so as not to get too hot, as opposed to want to feel arctic cold!
I'm in the camp of setting it to a reasonable temp so as not to get too hot, as opposed to want to feel arctic cold!
I have it set to 23c during the day. Dropped it to 22c yesterday whilst I was doing jobs round the house, but generally 23c is as cold as I want to go. Bedroom set to 21c before I go to bed and then I sleep with the window open, because I prefer the fresh air. Temperature stays low all night as it's lower outside than in.
Soldato
Yeah as long as overnight temps drop down, I agree, having windows open makes more sense than paying to cool the room down. Does a better job of cycling in fresh air as well.
In these temps I have windows closed from like 9AM - 9PM and rely on AC. Then try and swap over.
In these temps I have windows closed from like 9AM - 9PM and rely on AC. Then try and swap over.
I must be missing something here tbh
as above I'd be using air con for air con temps
22.5? I don't think my heating has been set that high in the last 2 year lol, I'd certainly not be setting aircon to that
mines nor. ally ormally set at 18/19
currently set at 7 but Reading 25 damn you summer2
Well I wouldn't have the heating set that high either. AC is an entirely different entity to heating though isn't it. Obviously a room at 22C with 5C air being blown into it feels cooler than the numbers suggest. Likewise a room at 22 in the winter with radiators burning away at 60C feels hot. If I set the AC to 18/19 it feels like a walk-in fridge, but 18.5 on the heating stat is perfect in the winter.
Soldato
- Joined
- 21 Sep 2020
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All down to air movement.
If you stick fans on your rads in the winter, it’ll heat the room up much quicker and it’ll feel a lot warmer a lot quicker as well. Heating won’t be running for as long either. The delta T of doing that is massive. Why you can have lower temp rads with a heat pump that’ll heat the house quicker and more efficently than a boiler.
Soldato
I'm quite interested in getting a split system with 3 internal units, one for the dining room/ lounge one for the rear bedroom and one for our bedroom. The cabling/pipe work(?) for our bedroom would need to go throughout the loft that is being boarded and insulated, how large are the pipes that are used? Is it 1/2"? Wondering if it's something that can go in a service void.
Soldato
Thanks, I'll probably have to have them boxed in then.
It's it best to keep the runs as short as possible with AC. Box room will be easy straight through the wall down to the unit.
Master bedroom in thinking through in internal wall along the wall/ceiling of the landing, through the wall and down to the unit, rather than half way around the outside of the house.
Back bedroom maybe the same if it fits otherwise that will have to go round the outside no idea how they get around windows.
Master bedroom in thinking through in internal wall along the wall/ceiling of the landing, through the wall and down to the unit, rather than half way around the outside of the house.
Back bedroom maybe the same if it fits otherwise that will have to go round the outside no idea how they get around windows.
I've been quoted £3600 for 4 indoor units and 1 external.
You can choose more expensive though and I probably will go with the Panasonic one at £4000. But thinking of only 3 indoor units now just the bedrooms.
Think some have quoted 1500 quid or so recently for one unit.