Squeaky stairs driving me nuts

psd99

psd99

psd99

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I have a problem with my staircase, the first 5-7 steps are very creaky. It wakes us all up in the house!

I looked online how to solve this and I attempted to get some wedges and glue them in place underneath the stairs. this has not solved the issue.

I also read that talcum powder works but just how does one get this into those gaps!?

Ideally, I need to put lots of screws from above between two bits of wood on each step
but if I took the carpet off (its new btw)
will I be able to put the carpet back as it was? Or not?

Or if anyone has any ideas please let me know.
 
Burned_Alive said:
You can buy screws that can be driven through the carpet without damage and the heads snap off level with the wood. There is also this kit, not sure how well it works, but reviews look reasonable.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBerry-Squeak-No-More-Kit/dp/B0006IK8YE
Click to expand...

Yep I got them to be honest BUT they just didn't work for my task.

the area is too tight between the vertical and horizontal stair for the black holder thing to fit in while I screw in.

The one that I did try was at an angle and despite snapping the screw off I can just about feel it
therefore I refrained from trying this again out of fear.
 
I would be hesitant to use that system in my house based on the fact you dont know where pipes run..

I have terrible squeeking in pretty much every floor upstairs in my house because of chipboard being used. last year i removed a nail and tried to replace with a screw and went straight through a water pipe that had a notch in the joist cut out..
 
Unlikely to have any pipes running up the stairs! :D

But yes, I wouldn't be screwing through normal chipboard floor without understanding what was underneath.
 
enigma27 said:
I would be hesitant to use that system in my house based on the fact you dont know where pipes run..

I have terrible squeeking in pretty much every floor upstairs in my house because of chipboard being used. last year i removed a nail and tried to replace with a screw and went straight through a water pipe that had a notch in the joist cut out..
Click to expand...

obviously would not use this on a carpet that I don't know where each pipe or wire was underneath. That is dangerous.

but under the stairs as pointed out there is nothing. In fact I can see what's under there... NOTHING


I feel frustrated I actually did a damn good job of screwing down all of the floorboards in the bedroom and landing but I let myself down on the stairs. I just did not have time on the day the carpet got fitted now it creaks badly
I will try talcum powder with some type of chute!
 
I just did this myself.

Stairs were uncarpeted, so wanted to sort the movement and noise out prior to painting and carpeting. Did the following;

- Screwed treads down to risers with 60mm screws. 3 on each step.
- Wedged any gaps between the treads and risers (bottom of the riser).
- Added supporting timber underneath a half landing where I had access to the underside.

I didn't have access to the underside of the main run of stairs, otherwise I would have looked to support from underneath also.

The above made a big difference. I'd say ~90% of movement/noise was removed. The carpeting (and underlay) of the stairs added enough cushioning to footfall to remove the remaining noise.
 
Skiddley said:
I just did this myself.

Stairs were uncarpeted, so wanted to sort the movement and noise out prior to painting and carpeting. Did the following;

- Screwed treads down to risers with 60mm screws. 3 on each step.
- Wedged any gaps between the treads and risers (bottom of the riser).
- Added supporting timber underneath a half landing where I had access to the underside.

I didn't have access to the underside of the main run of stairs, otherwise I would have looked to support from underneath also.

The above made a big difference. I'd say ~90% of movement/noise was removed. The carpeting (and underlay) of the stairs added enough cushioning to footfall to remove the remaining noise.
Click to expand...

I have full access from underneath but what did you mean by supporting the stairs?

Is that like bits of timber from the underside of the stairs to the floor? That would make the area under the stairs inoperable. but that could be okay for me as if it the first 7 steps only.
 
If you have a look at how stairs are put together, they generally use blocks and wedges to support the treads and risers;

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=stair+wedges&hl=en&biw=1536&bih=735&tbm=isch&imgil=sExrz2S9T2DxXM%3A%3BUx9Scfl1doCPmM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpopularstairs.com%252Fbasic-stair-building%252Fstairs-models&source=iu&pf=m&fir=sExrz2S9T2DxXM%3A%2CUx9Scfl1doCPmM%2C_&usg=__VRW4yXyqwHuspi91Fik6OnjgPn4=&ved=0ahUKEwjN-qzD4sTSAhWjDpoKHZh1B6UQyjcIMg&ei=5tm-WM3vNaOd6ASY652oCg#imgrc=_

You would renew or insert these in the relevant gaps to prevent movement.

The other option is to channel in some metal brackets and use countersunk screws.
 
Burned_Alive said:
If you have a look at how stairs are put together, they generally use blocks and wedges to support the treads and risers;

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=stair+wedges&hl=en&biw=1536&bih=735&tbm=isch&imgil=sExrz2S9T2DxXM%3A%3BUx9Scfl1doCPmM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpopularstairs.com%252Fbasic-stair-building%252Fstairs-models&source=iu&pf=m&fir=sExrz2S9T2DxXM%3A%2CUx9Scfl1doCPmM%2C_&usg=__VRW4yXyqwHuspi91Fik6OnjgPn4=&ved=0ahUKEwjN-qzD4sTSAhWjDpoKHZh1B6UQyjcIMg&ei=5tm-WM3vNaOd6ASY652oCg#imgrc=_

You would renew or insert these in the relevant gaps to prevent movement.
Click to expand...

Thanks I do see that I need some risers. But that gap is very very small.
 
I think i would just try and get some wood glue and as much of a wedge as possible into any gaps (you can chisel off excess if required). You're probably not going to solve it 100%, but it'll make it a lot better. I would also try and force some wood glue along any lines where the treads and risers meet.
 
Burned_Alive said:
I think i would just try and get some wood glue and as much of a wedge as possible into any gaps (you can chisel off excess if required). You're probably not going to solve it 100%, but it'll make it a lot better. I would also try and force some wood glue along any lines where the treads and risers meet.
Click to expand...

http://www.handyman.net.au/6-easy-staircase-fixes

just found this thanks. I need a sharp chisel though.
 
You say you reglued the wedges and the riser/tread angled blocks too?
If so did you avoid using the stairs till the glue had dried?
If not that may well be why the stairs are still squeaking :)
Polyurethane glue is best.It foams up to fill the gaps,either that or `cascamite`powdered resin glue(or equivalent)
NOT pva
imho of course
 

This usually solves the problem 90% of the time. Use 5 minute expanding polyurethane glue for best results. Means you wont disturb it when you need to use the steps and it fills voids to create a solid bond. Also use the expanding glue between the riser and tread and predrill and screw them together tight from the back. I'd use like 5 screws on each step. They used to use nails when they put the stairs together which over time loosen and can then cause creaking. I wouldn't bother with talc, it would just be a temp fix.

There is also a chance the centre of the treads are cracked which is hard to see from underneath. This was the case on my own stairs so I screwed and glued 6mm ply on the tops of all the steps, which also made the steps feel a lot more sturdy.

In the US they have a third string in the centre of the step that helps to stop them creaking over time. I don't know why we don't do the same but I have never see it in the UK. I guess its to save costs, but i'd rather pay a bit more and have creak free steps as its so annoying trying to solve it down the line after carpeting etc.
 
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psd99 said:
I have full access from underneath but what did you mean by supporting the stairs?

Is that like bits of timber from the underside of the stairs to the floor? That would make the area under the stairs inoperable. but that could be okay for me as if it the first 7 steps only.
Click to expand...

:D. No - I wasn't referring to pillars under the stairs. Although I did do this under my half-landing, to support the first few stairs, without compromising the storage space underneath.

I was referring to the wooden wedges and gap filling techniques.
 
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Mark A said:

This usually solves the problem 90% of the time. Use 5 minute expanding polyurethane glue for best results. Means you wont disturb it when you need to use the steps and it fills voids to create a solid bond. Also use the expanding glue between the riser and tread and predrill and screw them together tight from the back. I'd use like 5 screws on each step. They used to use nails when they put the stairs together which over time loosen and can then cause creaking. I wouldn't bother with talc, it would just be a temp fix.

There is also a chance the centre of the treads are cracked which is hard to see from underneath. This was the case on my own stairs so I screwed and glued 6mm ply on the tops of all the steps, which also made the steps feel a lot more sturdy.

In the US they have a third string in the centre of the step that helps to stop them creaking over time. I don't know why we don't do the same but I have never see it in the UK. I guess its to save costs, but i'd rather pay a bit more and have creak free steps as its so annoying trying to solve it down the line after carpeting etc.
Click to expand...

lol I thought it was a man in the end good video excellent find

this is something I can attempt then

what type of timber size and screws do you think they are!?
 
Treads/Risers I think are generally around 20mm (measure it). The wood he's using looks like "2x2", but you're more likely to be able to get hold of 44mm square. If that's the case you'd need 60mm screws and I'd probably go for 4-5mm diameter. Personally I'd be inclined to screw through the tread/riser from the front instead in which case probably 40-60mm screws would be fine.
 
thanks

I can't access the front because there is carpet there.

If I could have got to the front it would have been much easier.
 
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