Star Trails

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Taken tonight, perfect sky for it. Pointing at the north celestial pole (the bit in the middle with the stars moving the least). The trails are formed by the rotation of the earth tracing the path of the stars on the camera. This is a composite picture with 20 x 2 minute exposure shots combined.


Azimuth by ajyoung, on Flickr
 
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They were combined from layers in Photoshop with 'lighten' blend mode between them

The process if fairly simple.

1. Setup camera on tripod.

2. Search for the polar north to point the camera at if you want to get concentric the circles. I used the star walk app on the iPhone and searched for Polaris.

3. Compose the shot. I used a torch to illuminate the trees in order to see them through the viewfinder and get them framed properly. This example is a pretty lame composition but it was in a controlled environment (my garden!) :)

4. Turn IS off on your lens if it has it. You are on a tripod, IS could only interfere with the result.

5. Set your camera's exposure setting to 'bulb' mode.

6. Choose your focal length, aperture and ISO. I went as wide as possible with the maximum aperture available in this example. Since I used a Canon EF-S 10-22mm I went with 10mm wide, f3.5 on and I choose ISO 200 to keep noise down.

7. Set the lens focus to infinity or try focusing on a strong star. You don't want the focus to change from here on so now turn AF off.

8. Take a test shot with your settings at the expected exposure time in bulb mode. Examine the shot o make sure you can see all the stars you can at least see with your own eyes. With the settings above I went for a 2 minute exposure.

9. Shoot the required set/number of shots. I took 20 x 2 minute exposures in this example. You can do this with a cable/manual shutter release if you have the patience. I used a electronic Intervalometer/timer to do the donkey work for me (a wireless Hahnel Giga T Pro II). There are wired options on the bay for around £20.

10. Import the shots into lightroom. Open them in Photoshop as layers. Change blending mode in each of the layers but the last one to 'lighten'. There is free software out there to do this too but I haven't tried them. There are also addons for Photoshop to automate this task.

11. Voila! I saved the composed as a TIF file and adjusted brightness / contrast, added a bit of clarity and detail in Lightroom. I also adjusted the temperature towards blue since there was a lot of orange light from the street on the other side of the house in the shot.

What I learnt:

  • If you are trying for the first time. take 2 / 3 exposures, load them up on the computer and make sure they are good. Play with your settings and when you are happy write them down.
  • Check and double check your settings when you come to shoot. It's going to be long time to run this so make sure everything is right.
  • I had a UV filter / protector on my lens. At about 1 hour in, the temperature must have changed as this started to fog the inside of the filter and the lens. I guess the camera could also be warming up, don't know but the fog ruined my last 7 exposures. No loss but next time I'll do this with no filter attached.
 
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These are always cool, good job.
Next stage is to find a cool foreground!


I always intend to take such photos but then forget when i am out camping. The one time I tried last year was in Yosemite and my battery died after the first few exposures.
 
Thanks D.P.

Definitely on the look for a good location now, the weather is perfect!

You must have been gutted. Yosemite must be an awesome location to do this at.
 
That is a great photo and thanks for the explanation into how you combined the separate images into one. I haven't had my DSLR long so I'm still learning and often see photos like this and wonder how it was shot.

This is definitely something I'm going to try on a clear night sometime soon :)
 
When shooting star trails and stacking images, how do you avoid the trails appearing ad dots?

I did a short test of 10x30s exposures, but of course the camera can only take a 30s exposure every 60 seconds as it needs 30s to process/save the image.

What happened was that in those 30s where the camera was saving the image, the stars (earth) moved, leaving a gap before my next exposure.
 
The Nikons I have owned have noise reduction as a selectable option in the set menu. I turn it off for star trails as the stacking process gives some degree of noise reduction.
 
When shooting star trails and stacking images, how do you avoid the trails appearing ad dots?

I did a short test of 10x30s exposures, but of course the camera can only take a 30s exposure every 60 seconds as it needs 30s to process/save the image.

What happened was that in those 30s where the camera was saving the image, the stars (earth) moved, leaving a gap before my next exposure.

Turn long exposure noise reduction off.
 
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