Still getting weird Core0 temperatures

Pooh · 9 Aug 2007 at 22:49

Still getting weird Core0 temperatures ( Updated & Sorted )

Running a Q6600 at 3.4Ghz with a Swiftech Apogee GTX waterblock.

Problem I see is than when all cores are under full load, (SETI) there is a large temperature differential, sometimes up to 10C between cores on the CPU

.

I've noticed this differential from day 1 with this CPU. I've now had two different waterblocks on, reseated them on several occasions, using Artic Silver 5, I've even lapped the CPU IHS and 'tweaked' the Apogee GTX by bowing it as per thier recomendations.

This is really winding me up now. Is anyone else noticing the same temperature differentials in their setup ?

V|per · 10 Aug 2007 at 00:41

some cores ru hotter thaan others, simple as that... also could be slightly poorer contact on core0 to the ihs.. it's rare that any multi core cpu has the same temp across the cores.

Barry1337 · 10 Aug 2007 at 01:15

That seems ok you get a lot of chips like that

Wingz · 10 Aug 2007 at 01:30

use this helpful guide.. found at Xtremesystems

Pooh · 10 Aug 2007 at 10:05

Excellent Link Wingz.

I've managed to get the differential down from 8C - 10C down to 2C and at the same time reduce the CPU temperature in general by a couple of degrees even though I've turned up the CPU voltage by 1 click for better stability.

Rather than messing about I started afresh.

1 - Removed water block and CPU (again ) and cleaned them both up. When I put them in last time I thought I was really careful with the amount of Arctic Silver5 I applied. I still used too much as when the block & CPU were separated there was still a good amount 'splodged' out of the sides.

2 - pulled the Swiftech Apogee GTX apart and removed the 3mm O-ring that I fitted and replaced it with the standard 2.6mm O-ring. Swiftech recommend the 3mm O-ring as it makes the water block ' bow ' which apparently helps contact with the CPU IHS. According to the Swiftech website it also has a benefit on lapped CPUs which is why I thought I'd give it a go. Anyway it's now back to the standard O-ring and it's nice and flat again.

3 - Re installed everything this time using the slightest amount of Arctic Silver and tightening the water block screws just enough to make contact with the CPU so I didn't fry it and then booted into Windows at stock speeds. I then gently tightened up each of the screws trying to give a few extra turns to load the water block on the hot parts of the CPU IHS and after 5 minutes or so of messing about I think I've got it as good as I can get it. Rebooted with the CPU clocked at 3.4 and it's still looking good.

Now much happier.

Thanks again.