Strong magnets to prop up a reservoir/pump combo

Associate
Joined
7 Oct 2015
Posts
1,044
Inspired by GFFEvents who did it on one of their builds, was to hide the pump res in the PSU chamber away from the motherboard chamber in the LL Evo RGB.

I did the same with mine, which would feel a little less cramped than it already is, but i forgot my D5 is a Vario (prefer those to PWM)... and because of the way its mounted (screwed through the case behind the mb tray, its almost impossible to reach the dial.

I wonder if there are magnets out there which i can use to attach the res to the holder? Would Neodymium magnets be strong enough?

ypAAQck.jpeg


ef6S4vC.jpeg


m4vRZWh.jpeg
 
Pumps do use magentic impellers so I would approach this method with caution. I dont think a D5 uses such an impeller however, I think they are directly driven.

Moving atrong magnets arpund near other components could be risk also.
ahh good point.. maybe magnets may not be the best idea then.. especially if its behind the mobo too.. guess another alternative could be to use door brackets
 
Last edited:
Velcro, stuck down with Gorilla Glue.
ahh good ol' velcro, that could work actually. I'm hesitant with any type of glue though as i prefer not the leave any stains/residue should i come to sell the res later on down the line.. basically a less destructive way of doing things


My pump/res combo just sits on top of my PSU in the side of my 011D Evo. The PC isn't exactly jumping about or didn't see any need to fix it in place. Also tubing prevents any significant movement.
Yeah.. i'm not overly concerned about this, it just makes it look tidier in a way, but easily removable so i can adjust the dial at the back if needed. Even if the XL is big, there isn't actually a lot of room for the flat res combo on the PSU side.
 
Last edited:
Velcro cable ties with neodymium magnets gorilla glued to them. Leave nothing to chance.

Neodymium magnets would easily be strong enough. They are usually sold by dimension 20x4mm eg.
Yeah i purchased a set last night to play around with and to see if it would fit my needs. I bought the ones which have a steel cap on them 20x4 i think.. but it seems to lose its magnetism with the cap on. (worse than a weak fridge magnet)

My idea was to screw one magnet to the holder and another to the res like this. Ignore the countersunk screws, i have some countersunk m4 bolts which should be flat enough

NSSlIr2.jpeg


1Xtrr63.jpeg



I use this https://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-pwm-argb-tank-pump-reservoir-combo-tsb3w
Fits perfectly on top of the PSU and I can reach the dial on the D5 to adjust the speed with a screwdriver through the holes at the rear of the case :)
Ooo i'll look into that. Does the res have any mounting holes to bolt onto the case.. or is it just freestanding. Any holders for it?
 
Last edited:
Looking at how the bracket fixes to the motherboard plate I reckon you could get away with three of the four mounting screws being bare without nuts leaving say the top right one being the one you leave a nut on, or even a wingnut if it will fit, to tighten it up, it wouldn't go anywhere even if was only tightened down on one nut. By this I mean you put four short m4 set screws through the mobo, with a nut on each to fix them all to the mobo, then put your bracket of on the excess thread sticking out to locate everything, then just have a single other nut on one of these to then tighten it down.

Setscrew[]mobo[]nut[]bracket for the 3 ones just used for locating. Setscrew[]mobo[]nut[]bracket[]nut for the one used for tightening.

edit: of course, whatever method you use, you then find it vibrates like buggery and then have to go back to square one :D Then that velcro will look even more tempting as it will effectively de-couple it from the mobo plate..
i think i know what you mean.. i did try something similar to that, but decided against it due to as you say vibrations.

The way it's currently been setup at the moment (till i upgrade soon that is),

screw > mb > D5 rear hole > nut > D5 front hole > res

The nut is situated where it is to essentially stop the screw from wobbling.

The holder itself can stay as is.. i'll just use shorter screws like 15mm to attach to the mb plate.. but i kinda want to make the res like a quick release function where it would easily just pop off the holder... but that again assumes i will be using soft tubing. It would be impossible to do this if i was running hard line unless i used those rotation fittings from Granzon.

Edit: That could actually work.. 4 small screws to mount holder to mb tray. 2 velco straps to secure the top of the res to the top section of the holder. a thin door bracket to hold the bottom of the res (like a fold down table), then use Grandzon fittins like these which will allow me to use hard tubing to the res

ALx7d1s.png
 
Last edited:
You should find with just the plate and magnet, they have hell of a lot stronger hold.

But if you want to go magnet to magnet for extra strength you'll need to find a manufacture that makes them with opposite poles on the counsunk sides ie. a matching pair
yeah i was thinking of doing that but seems most dedicated retailers are priced in bulk and far expensive than what normal consumers would buy them for.

These for example were around £15 for 10 magnets
 
Actually, it may be wise not to do magnet on magnet. They are so so brittle that if you let go a little to quickly they pull together so fast will just shatter.
I know theyre expensive, I bought 5 (15mm x 3mm) a couple of years ago, cost me a tenner delivered.
Used them to put under a bottle opener to catch the caps. I was playing around with them and one snapped back to the stack from 5-10 mm away shattered 2 of them and cracked the 3rd... lol
The 2 left though work great for the catching caps
unless i put some sort of thin padding between them.. may lose a slight bit of attraction but could be used as a soft bumper.

I'll play around and see what works best
 
I use velcro for all my SSDs. Not had any of them need to be stuck on a 2nd time but obviously they are not nearly as heavy at reservoir with water going through it.
velcro can be a possibility.. depends how its been looped..

It would be more resilient if you were hard lining compared to using soft tubing for example.. or if majority of the connections coming out of the res are rotaries and extenders.

Will be interested to see what method works best when i come to dismantle my gear following the upgrade
 
Last edited:
An alternative is magnetic tape. I used it to hold a PSU to the side of an external radiator:

embed


embed


embed


I was a little concerned at first with using magnets so close to the PSU but there were no issues. It's a surprisingly strong attachment and can be easily repositioned or removed.
Oo another thing to try.. i was considering magnet tap as i have a roll, but seems mine is a dud as it can barly hold a set of nail clippers.. so originally decided against it
 
Can the OP describe again what the plan is turn pull the pump/res off clear of the case with the available slack on the incoming/outgoing tubes? That one photo suggests there isn't that much slack in the tubes? Or is it meant to pivot on rotatable fittings? Press studs may also be a option if a non magnetic removable fixing is required instead of velcro.
Pivoting is the best word to describe it.

At the moment the res is fixed/bolted down to the case.. but i am using a Vario D5 with the dial at the back.

Normally you wouldn't need to adjust the dial for normal operation, but it makes it easier when flushing/bleeding etc etc. Because the res is in a fixed position, there is no way for me to adjust the dial (unless i prop the res in a different orientation/location).

The idea was to have the res brackets still held down to the case, but have the res itself in a quick release type mode, where i can easily pull it off the bracket and adjust when needed.

These mods may not be needed if i were to use soft tubing, where i can give enough slack in order for me to adjust, but it makes things slightly more difficult if everything was hardlined
 
after a bit of pondering and deigning in my head, another no fuss way is to replace the EK FLT with the AC FLT since the pump is front mounted. As long as the brackets which ome with is retain the 120mm fan hole diameter, then i should be able to screw those into the existing holes i made for the current FLT.
 
Back
Top Bottom