Studio Flash - I am a n00b

Caporegime
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I am a natural light shooter and this is one area I have very little experience at but there is no harm in expanding my horizon right? :)

Once upon a time, with my old Film SLR, I did shoot an hour in a studio with a light meter, modelling light, it was in a tech college evening class. But that was literally a decade ago. And it didn't come out that bad considering it was on film and I had no idea how it was going to come out and had to trust the light meter, I actually developed and printed this in the darkroom too myself.



This was the result. LOL Iford Pan 50, 50/1.8 lens, no idea about aperture as I never wrote it down but it can't be that high from the look of it.

Anyway, I just bought a couple of brolly and stands...moving myself gently into strobes stuff. I have a 550EX and 580EXii already so that's sorted. Also have some Youg(something) ebay triggers with 2 receivers so I am all set. I think it's about time I learn more and expand my horizon.

I am not trying to do the high key stuff, the white background stuff, that does not interest me. What I want is something like this.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rohicks/5416933527/



5215452242_5d142b35c8.jpg


Basically something that I learn and can use it in most indoor places and use the interiors also as the set.

Like this

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rohicks/5353328082/

Whilst I note the sync speed of the 5Dii is 1/200, and I like to shoot wide open or near enough wide open. So I can't shoot 1/1250 without going into high speed sync. Just wondering if it is possible to do the shot like above with the set up I have, without investing in Alien Bee lights and Elinchrom Quadra triggers (have you ever google the prices for these??!! I think PW were expensive!)
 
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If you're shooting indoors then you should be ok with opening right up and setting your ISO to 100 if needed. Your flash guns will work harder but you should be able to get the dof you want.
Depends how much ambient you're ok with letting in to shot.

In the Flickr you linked too, the flash looks like it's primary and the ambient secondary lighting so that kind of shot you should be able to pull off but for really nice light you'll need big light modifiers and they're bulky and require stands.

Are you thinking about taking all the gear to weddings? If you go the route of big soft boxes, snoots and backgrounds. It's a hell of a lot of stuff to drag about but that's not saying it's not worth it.

At one point I was thinking of doing the same but the sheer size and weight of everything plus after doing the shots I'd have to store it somewhere and hope it's not all stolen put a damper on it for me.

p.s. I'm still learning the finer points of flash so hopefully someone with more knowledge will comment.
 
I don't plan to take the lighting gear to weddings, not yet, not until I have it nailed. I am confident bouncing with my flash on it right now but to risk off camera with no experience is asking for trouble. So, I am sticking to what I know until I have this like the back of my hand before using it in a wedding. (and I will need an assistant too if i were to do this)

What I got to do in a few weeks is some simple head shots for a theatre company, shouldn't be too difficult, hence the lighting equipment. And I can use it on a Bridal shot too I am thinking, and some portraiture.

I basically got 2 of each

Stand - http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/eng/product/bowens_compact_light_stand/bw6610l
Umbrella - http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/eng/p...ce_umbrella_with_removable_black_cover/au3045
Bracket - http://www.calumetphoto.co.uk/eng/product/calumet_swivel_umbrella_adapter/mf6830
 
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aah cool, I think you should be able to achieve what you want with your gear but it's probably going to require some thought in to the location you shoot in when you do the head shots just to make things easy on yourself.

I'd say get a location where the light is quite even and not too bright, that way you can adjust your flashes and not be fighting against the ambient.

Like I said though, it's something I'm learning a lot more about this year as well.

I'm sure you would have already heard of the Strobist website BUT just in case...

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html
 
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I am using PocketWizard's FlexTT and since it makes the Flash gun thinks its sitting on top of the camera it is capable of using HSS up to your fastest shutter speed. Have a search on youtube on them with David Guy Maynard Flextt, theres a video of him doing a beach shoot with 3 FlexTT using shutter speed of up to 1/2000s.
 
I am using PocketWizard's FlexTT and since it makes the Flash gun thinks its sitting on top of the camera it is capable of using HSS up to your fastest shutter speed. Have a search on youtube on them with David Guy Maynard Flextt, theres a video of him doing a beach shoot with 3 FlexTT using shutter speed of up to 1/2000s.

We also use this technique. Its a really clever way around.
 
It is and the only other option is a product called Radio Poppers, which isnt as widely available as the PW. Both PW and Radio Poppers solution would be cheaper and lighter than Alienbee/Elinchrom I think.
 
I am using PocketWizard's FlexTT and since it makes the Flash gun thinks its sitting on top of the camera it is capable of using HSS up to your fastest shutter speed. Have a search on youtube on them with David Guy Maynard Flextt, theres a video of him doing a beach shoot with 3 FlexTT using shutter speed of up to 1/2000s.

Although less in the European versions, don't they have trigger reliability issues with 580exii's without a sock or shield?

Also 580exii's seem to have a fault where HSS on PW's seems to be killing quite a few flashes.
For the above reason I'm considering selling my 580exii's and opting for 430exii's as they don't suffer with any of the above issues.

@ Raymond
Phottix Helios, is apparently being released in Arpil, which you might want to look into if it's any good.
Pixel kings are another one.
 
What is your eventual aim with the studio lighting set ups? Are you hoping to say, have a little area set up at a wedding where people can just jump in for nicely lit portraits?

I would recommend looking into the low end Bowens gear if it's going to be a serious business direction. They really do punch remarkably above their weight, and you can set a couple up in the corner with good old manual dials and leave it (or gaffa tape it! ;)), knowing it will be exactly the same every time (near enough), recharge fast, and never run out of power, and you get modelling lights. Haven't seen prices in a fair while but you used to be able to pick up a twin 500W kit for sod all, probably about the same as two 580EXIIs!
 
Although less in the European versions, don't they have trigger reliability issues with 580exii's without a sock or shield?

Also 580exii's seem to have a fault where HSS on PW's seems to be killing quite a few flashes.
For the above reason I'm considering selling my 580exii's and opting for 430exii's as they don't suffer with any of the above issues.

You're right with the issues with the 580EXII, I only use 430EXII's so it works perfectly for me. My next flashgun would probably be of the Sigma/YongNuo ETTL variety as I cant justify the price on the 580EXII.
 
In terms of plans, i don't know yet. I will see how easy it is first to set it up and do something like this in a controlled environment before taking it into a wedding environment. So for the time being, it will be purely for personal projects, and portraits sessions only. I want to see what kind of results i get with it, and how i am addicted to it before splashing out more money on it.

I know about the issue with the PW with the 580 hence i am in 2 minds about getting them too, might wait until the next version or do they make another model that doesn't suffer from the same problem?
 
Unfortunately both US and EU version suffers from the problem, EU version is suppose to be slightly better. The problem isnt entirely PW's fault as the 580EXII gives off a lot of noise on the same radio frequency PW operates on.
 
Wouldn't one cheap solution for shooting wide open, but without high speed sync, be to use ND filters to drop the shutter speed whilst keeping the lens wide open? Something like a Singh-ray vari ND would give you a huge amount of flexibility.
 
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